PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: fordblue72 on March 29, 2016, 12:53:59 PM
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Hello, I just picked up a 2.0 head from a guy , it is complete and has a Delong "road" cam in it, no other markings...I measured the valve lift , looks like about .330 lift, does anyone have any info about the cams he used to make for the 2.0 engines? I know that he used to work with Dean Elgin and they both worked for Winfield. And that he used low lift but longer overlap on his grinds, the cam lobes resemble modern rollers but this cam is an 80s grind. Also it is in good shape with very little wear. the head has chrome moly retainers and high end stem seals, also is ported HUGE on the intake side with stock size valves and regular followers. He had an intake for dual down draft webers for sale with it but I passed. Just wanted to know if anyone has used his stuff. Thanks
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I prefer them to DeShort ones?
Sorry, couldn't not do that.
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Wow, haven't heard that name in a long time, I believe Earl Edgerton in Santa Rosa now has all of John Delong's patterns and machines, I think anyhow???..
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The .330 is an extremely low lift and if measured directly at the cam is not the full lift. The rocker has a ratio factored into it. If you have a dial indicator/base you can get a close approximate. Set the valve lash at zero and then measure off a flat area of the retainer to get the full lift. The indicators from Harbor Freight are OK and don't cost much, probably under $20 with a coupon.
You can also approximate the duration. Ideally you would have a steel degree wheel, but frankly you can download an image from somewhere and print it to paper and attach it to any suitable stiff surface. https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1920&bih=943&q=degree+wheel+for+cam+timing&oq=degree+wheel&gs_l=img.1.2.0l10.1583.4274.0.6513.12.9.0.3.3.0.79.546.8.8.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..1.11.565.rcy_M5w5egU (https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1920&bih=943&q=degree+wheel+for+cam+timing&oq=degree+wheel&gs_l=img.1.2.0l10.1583.4274.0.6513.12.9.0.3.3.0.79.546.8.8.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..1.11.565.rcy_M5w5egU)
Attach the degree wheel to the cam with a pointer. Don't worry about being at zero. Just measure the total degrees over the ramp from the start to the end point. With the same zero valve lash take a reading at .006 and .050 lift on the opening ramp. Then take a reading at .050 and .006 on the closing ramp. The duration of the .006 readings is a rough approximation of the "advertised" duration. The .050 duration reading is a more commonly used reading today. Measure the intake and exhaust both because they could be different.
This won't tell you everything about the cam, but you should get "close" on the lift, duration and overlap. So, that is DeLong way of getting your question answered. ;D
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The .330 is an extremely low lift and if measured directly at the cam is not the full lift. The rocker has a ratio factored into it. If you have a dial indicator/base you can get a close approximate. Set the valve lash at zero and then measure off a flat area of the retainer to get the full lift. The indicators from Harbor Freight are OK and don't cost much, probably under $20 with a coupon.
You can also approximate the duration. Ideally you would have a steel degree wheel, but frankly you can download an image from somewhere and print it to paper and attach it to any suitable stiff surface. https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1920&bih=943&q=degree+wheel+for+cam+timing&oq=degree+wheel&gs_l=img.1.2.0l10.1583.4274.0.6513.12.9.0.3.3.0.79.546.8.8.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..1.11.565.rcy_M5w5egU
Attach the degree wheel to the cam with a pointer. Don't worry about being at zero. Just measure the total degrees over the ramp from the start to the end point. With the same zero valve lash take a reading at .006 and .050 lift on the opening ramp. Then take a reading at .050 and .006 on the closing ramp. The duration of the .006 readings is a rough approximation of the "advertised" duration. The .050 duration reading is a more commonly used reading today. Measure the intake and exhaust both because they could be different.
This won't tell you everything about the cam, but you should get "close" on the lift, duration and overlap. So, that is DeLong way of getting your question answered. ;D
(https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1920&bih=943&q=degree+wheel+for+cam+timing&oq=degree+wheel&gs_l=img.1.2.0l10.1583.4274.0.6513.12.9.0.3.3.0.79.546.8.8.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..1.11.565.rcy_M5w5egU)
Is this the "Roundabout" way to achieve the desired specs? ;D
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Thanks for the tip, I will verify the lift at the valve tonight with a drop gauge...I know that lift seems awfully low, I was using the formula from the Lunati website. and just measuring the overall base circle and lobe lift 1.400, then the lobe dia.1.165, subtracting the two then multiplying the follower ratio of 1.6. Gets .376 lift? But now I wonder if it could be different on a OHV motor rather than an OHC motor. In any case it will be fun to see whats up this cam, At least its not a big (pig) 390 cam change! hahaha