Current Classifieds

71-73 Hood
Date: 12/07/2018 06:22 pm
Clutch/brake pedal assemble
Date: 12/21/2017 11:26 am
Bellhousing for C4 to 2.0 litre pinto
Date: 01/30/2017 01:48 pm
1980 PINTO for sale
Date: 06/19/2017 02:51 pm
Front sway bar

Date: 07/23/2018 08:19 pm
Pinto drive train

Date: 06/29/2018 08:32 am
Weiand Single plane manifold - for 72 Pinto 4 barrel Carb
Date: 04/25/2017 12:17 pm
Front sump oil pan
Date: 01/02/2017 06:54 pm
Wanted 1973 Ford right fender
Date: 06/03/2017 08:50 pm
1976 Ford Pinto

Date: 07/16/2019 02:51 am
1978 ford pinto door striker (passenger side)
Date: 09/01/2017 11:58 am
pinto for sale
Date: 09/11/2016 09:47 pm

Author Topic: Clutch Adjustment Question  (Read 1486 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline amxtra

  • Pinto Member
  • **
  • Posts: 59
  • FeedBack: +1/-0

  • Total Badges: 3
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Windows User Fifth year Anniversary
Clutch Adjustment Question
« on: August 13, 2013, 06:48:32 PM »
Been so long since I had to pay attention and not take for granted it was right I cant recall, and since its easier to ask than to pull the darn thing apart again....
Since no other T5 swap has had the clutch engagement problem Im having been working on making it work.
How far back does the fork need to sit? is halfway like in the pic ok, or do I need more travel?

Offline amc49

  • PCCA VIP
  • Pinto Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 1256
  • FeedBack: +242/-1
  • Another Pinto Driver

  • Total Badges: 4
    Badges: (View All)
    Topic Starter Poll Voter Windows User 1000 Posts
Re: Clutch Adjustment Question
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2013, 09:55:21 PM »
More than one thing to consider there. Arm needs to be away from back of opening when clutch fully loose. Arm must also be in a position to be able to use maximum adjustment of either cable or solid linkage pushing on it. Does no good putting it in the middle of hole if then you only have very little adjustment on a new clutch. If motor is out so you can play, then bolt trans to motor and check by turning trans output while in gear, slowly move lever back until clutch releases cleanly and then a bit more and see where in opening that all ends up. You don't want a whopping amount of over travel when pushing on pressure plate, depending on the type (diaphragm) you can go too far and pressure plate then goes over center to stick and then does not come back. When fully released the arm must allow some freeplay too, maybe 1/2" at clutch pedal itself is good, otherwise the throwout bearing wears like lightning.

Now, try getting all that in one package. Fun.