Author Topic: brake light (Read 11713 times)

r4pinto · « **Reply #30 on:** February 18, 2013, 04:14:16 PM »

There is also one for about $4 at Oreily. Here's the part number Part # W704C

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 18, 2013, 04:18:06 PM »

Have you ever used one like it?

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 18, 2013, 07:17:53 PM »

Any bender will do the job but a socket clamped in a vise makes a great mandrel as well. It's easy to bend 3/16" with your fingers

r4pinto · « **Reply #33 on:** February 18, 2013, 08:23:34 PM »

Quote from: tonij1960 on February 18, 2013, 04:18:06 PM

Have you ever used one like it?

I have before I got the other one for Christmas. It took a little more time to bend the parts but did the job when I needed to use it.

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 18, 2013, 11:06:31 PM »

if it works ill look at it while Im there instead of the other one then. I just worry about it crimping.

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 19, 2013, 05:30:24 PM »

I cannot get the brake line looe at the h block. I tried with a 7/16 line wrench and its only going to strip it so I stopped right away.

Is it metric on a 1978?

cutelitlputtputt · « **Reply #36 on:** February 19, 2013, 06:23:26 PM »

Hello Toni!

I am not the most handy person with this, but I do know your lines are not metric.
Pictured below is a tool that I think everyone should have! This was my dad's baby pipe wrench. I use this for lots of things. You might try this on the brake line. I last used this on insalling my cooler water valve. It is in a real bad, tight place where you can't use an "adult" size wrench!!!!

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #37 on:** February 19, 2013, 09:25:10 PM »

Im just afraid of rounding that brass flare nut once I realized my 7/16 line wrench wasnt getting it right I gave up. I guess ill just change the hoses and see if its all I need. I might have to splice in a piece of line rather than messing up that b nut.

Can you flare a line while its still in the car? I read different things about using a compression splice. I know sears put one on my car once and its still holding. I was mad though they qouted me to replace that line and didnt. I yeled at the manager and said for $90 I was mad I couldve got that done for $25 down the street and he gave me back my money.I yelled at him in front of all the customers deliberately. They made Sears quit working on cars not long after that too.

289Wagon · « **Reply #38 on:** February 20, 2013, 08:01:43 AM »

The flare nut on brake tubing is made of steel not brass. If you have brass,someone along the way has changed it.
3/16 tubing flare nuts require a 3/8 wrench & not a 7/16. Except sometimes the OEM will use a different nut to avoid mixing up lines.
If you are going to replace the piece of tubing, cut it off close to the nut & then use a ' good' 6 point socket or 6 point box wrench to remove it.
Yes, in some cases tubing can be flared while on the vehicle but it does require a good amount of space to do it. And some experince in using a flareing tool.
Compession type fittings are not legal for use on a HYD brake system in PA & even if they were I would never use them myself.
Keep in mind it doesn't have to be an exact match to the OEM one with that tight bend etc. Just need to get fluid from 'A to B' without kinks or leaks.
If you buy a pre-made piece of line it may have one nut longer than the other. The longer nut is for use in a wheel cyl. or something where the seat is set deep. Maybe in your case the hose end.
Off subject, if you do a M/C again, leave the mounting nuts as loose as possible so you can move it around. Once you have the lines finger tight, tighten the M/C mounting nuts then the lines using a wrench.

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #39 on:** February 20, 2013, 01:03:35 PM »

I was using line wrenches but theyre those great neck or whatever they are. It fit pretty tight barely got on the nut.Maybe the edges are already worn. It looks like brass at least. When I had a steering hose changed before I saw them cut the hose and use a socket. As a last resort I was thinking of doing that of course I wouldt have any chance of splicing in after I cut it close enough.

I thought thats what I should have done with the mc. Leave it to me to do it the hard way.

289Wagon · « **Reply #40 on:** February 20, 2013, 02:39:03 PM »

Good Grief ! Please tell me what side you have the problem on. From what you have said I'm thinking the left. Either way I will make you a brake line & send it to you at no cost to you, rather then see you going around with some Mickey Mouse splice in a 'brake line' ! You're not talking a piece of windshield washer hose but a 'brake line.'
If you're at all interested PM me or Email me at hawker39@verizon.net with your mailing address & which side you need.

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #41 on:** February 20, 2013, 06:19:30 PM »

I appreciate that well I had someone comre to change the brake hoses oday hoping that might be all it needed. Otherwise the drivers side front line has to be replaced. Well he broke the brake line on the other side trying to unbolt the hose. Now he says hes coming back in the morning and hes going to change both the lines. I dont know how much hes going to charge but to me he broke the other one he shoulnt charge too much.

What he wants to do is unbolt the h block to get to it better but Im afraid hes going to brake the rear one next. This car could be on the verge of being junked out the way its going.

D.R.Ball · « **Reply #42 on:** February 20, 2013, 09:43:03 PM »

Not, remember these cars are over 30 years old and require some work, time and patience to fix. I had the same problem when I changed the Master Cylinder and the Vacuum booster. I had to fab up some lines....The lines are cheap and so is the tool to flare the lines. If you plan on keeping the car either get a pair of brake wrenches from Snap on or at least Craftsman...Us e good tools for brake lines( they strip easy) etc mostly cheap stuff for ever thing else...Also get used to the idea of having two sets of tools one metric and one standard....Th e engine is metric and everything else is standard..... Pawn shop's can be your best friend in buying tools, cheap prices and good quality IE professional grade tools pawned by out of work auto mechanics...I had to get parts off a junk yard car and had to go to the pawn shop to find a wrench, I did got the part for about the same price as the tool...

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #43 on:** February 20, 2013, 09:56:30 PM »

Im most likelt to tell this guy enough is enough if hes going to keep breaking things and wants to charge me more to fix what he breaks too.

I was looking at some sockets called grip tite and OReillys has a flare wrench by American Grease Stick but its $42.

I think I am going to need something special to get these lines off at that h block. Does it come off if its bolted to the fender? He wants to pull up to try to wrench the lines Im afraid hes going to screw up more lines that way personally.

Also Im a little weary of buying used tools in case theyre even slightly worn but I guess good ones might not wear so much.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #44 on:** February 21, 2013, 12:28:23 AM »

Any time you work on an older car you break parts that weren't broken as you attempt to make repairs. It's normally the case that you destroy the hard line when you try to remove it unless you have a clean Arizona car. I broke a lot of things when I rebuilt my front suspension on my '80 but that's the fun of an old car.

Fred Morgan · « **Reply #45 on:** February 21, 2013, 09:40:53 AM »

As puttputt said, after line wrench fails use little pipe wrench I have done this many times. Fred

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #46 on:** February 21, 2013, 03:46:23 PM »

Do you unbolt the block to get to it and lift it up?

Also do Pintos ues bubble flares or double flares.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #47 on:** February 21, 2013, 07:29:53 PM »

Double flare

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #48 on:** February 21, 2013, 08:47:51 PM »

Do you think unions and double flare fitting will be safe on a brake line?

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #49 on:** February 21, 2013, 09:33:25 PM »

Yeah, those are designed to handle pressure. I used one on my dually to get to the rear since they don't make 9 foot long pre-made lines. It's been on there 7 years now.

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #50 on:** February 23, 2013, 10:02:59 PM »

Well after cutting the line the socket worked like butter.Still have to get the other side off and bend the new ones to go in. I guess I should put those clips on the line that bolt to the under body? Are they real important theyre sure a pain.

The lines I got look black. Is it some kind of coating on the steel?

wbacon8780 · « **Reply #51 on:** February 24, 2013, 06:07:33 PM »

It's poly armour coated, suppose to help stop corrosion.

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #52 on:** February 25, 2013, 05:01:20 PM »

Well the brake lins and both hoses are in and not laeking the pedal is really good. But it still sinks if you press real slow on it. Someone looked at it and he pumped the pedal a bunch of times and checked and showqed me air bubbles in the rear reservoir. He said those bubbls man the master cylinder has an internal leak. I dont have my receipt anymore and AutoZone says its not under my phone number and wont try to find it any other way. Even whn I went there for the brake lines the first guy said they didnt have them and was so short with me, I asked another guy and he went in back and got them.

I guess I dont want another one from AutoZone anyway. Are the ones from OReilly any good or should I go get one at napa?

r4pinto · « **Reply #53 on:** February 25, 2013, 10:27:44 PM »

Remanufactured master cylinders can be hit or miss no matter where you get them from. I would check to see if they are different brands. Napa tends to sell items under their own "private name" but it could actually be the same part as you could get at oreily auto. Just my opinion anyways

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #54 on:** February 25, 2013, 11:38:25 PM »

do you think hes right if theres bubbles in the reservoir it means the seals are leaking?

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #55 on:** February 26, 2013, 12:45:38 PM »

I guess ill try a remanufactured one and see what happens. OReilly this time forget Autozone.

r4pinto · « **Reply #56 on:** February 26, 2013, 01:25:07 PM »

Quote from: tonij1960 on February 25, 2013, 11:38:25 PM

do you think hes right if theres bubbles in the reservoir it means the seals are leaking?

To be honest that's the first time I have ever heard that but if the pedal isn't holding it's generally an indication of a bad master cylinder

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #57 on:** February 26, 2013, 01:38:43 PM »

Its the same as when it first made the brake light go on. If you press the pedal and hold it it doesnt drop a bit and its a good high pedal. If you put your foot on the pedal and just barely press it goes down just far enough to make the brake light come on. The lowest it goes I can still put my other foot under the pedal. I guess the first master cylinder was bad, he says if you get air bubbles in the reservoir like that after pumoing the pedal and taking the cap off, it means the seals are bad. The bubbles were in the reservoir for the rear brakse and it was the other reservoir that was low before. I havent seen a bit of drop in the level in the reservoir that had bubbles in it at all.

ToniJ1960 · « **Reply #58 on:** February 27, 2013, 03:52:09 PM »

Does anyone know if I can get a couple of small bolts that would screw in the master cylinder to block off the lines for testing? If I block the back and it still drops, then I could put the other bolt in the front and if it still drops ill know its the master cylinder. If it does stop ill know its something in the front or back system. What size they would be?

r4pinto · « **Reply #59 on:** February 27, 2013, 05:19:15 PM »

You would actually want to get a couple of threaded tapered fittings instead of bolts. They are inverted flare fittings but I don't know if they make what you are looking for.

News:

Current Classifieds

Author Topic: brake light (Read 11713 times)