PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: Henrius on July 09, 2014, 09:16:24 PM
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It is nearly painting time for my 1973 Runabout restoration. I am keeping outside appearance close to original, but adding chrome trim and options from later model Pintos. The 2.0 engine has been hopped up, but looks nearly original except for headers and an adjustable cam pulley.
Practically all most shops use these days is basecoat/clearcoat. It certainly has a nice shine? Would I make a big mistake if I have the car painted the original factory color, but with base coat/clearcoat?
Or should I find a shop that will just do acrylic enamel like original.
The car will always be garaged, and only driven occasionally.
I understand that there is no value, and practically no market, for a meticulously restored Pinto.
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Your local EPA regulations will dictate which can be used. You will get mixed answers. The first thing I'd compare the cost for both taking in considertation prep, primer, and paint. I'm a fan of single stage myself.
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The paint on my '72 Squire is original, but if it ever has to be redone I wouldn't consider anything other than acrylic enamel because I want to keep it looking as stock as possible.
Dwayne :)
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It really boils down to personal preference. You can't beat the gloss of a BC/CC color sanded and polished finish. But as you said single stage was stock. One thing to remember, if you are going to use a metallic finish you can't sand and polish out dust and s&*t in the paint afterwards. The varying thickness of the top layer of paint will effect the look of the finish, it will look "blotchy". If using a metallic paint I always go BC/CC.
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Single stage is the best. I use a lacquer primer on my cars also.
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I quit using lacquer primer several years ago. Look in junk yards, if you see paint peeling off of the plastic and pot metal parts you can almost bet it was a lacquer primer. It just dosen't have the "holding power" under the new formula paints and also it does not flex for the plastic parts. Epoxy on bare metal followed by a high build urethane is the way to go for a lasting job. Not the cheapest why to do it, but I don't like do overs....