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Author Topic: Replacing fuel lines  (Read 3370 times)

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boughtabobcat

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Replacing fuel lines
« on: October 08, 2014, 01:09:27 AM »
Well, its almost time for the white stuff and here in the Northwoods, there's quite a bit of snow under the car and also a lot of salt/brine used on the roads- I'm wanting to replace the entire fuel lines (both send and return) from tank to carb because right now they're a hodgepodge of metal and rubber. Would you guys suggest I go with all new metal line or all rubber?

Offline tbucketjack

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2014, 02:37:25 AM »
I'd use as much metal line that you can.

Offline Pinto5.0

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2014, 04:24:03 PM »
Use NiCopp tubing or stainless
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Offline amc49

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2014, 06:17:32 PM »
You don't even need the return, we blocked them off all the time at the garage........ .........and cars ran fine like that. I ran blocked on both my MII and Pinto as well. We did the same to GM cars too.

Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2014, 10:07:58 PM »
Returns are not necessary but they sure are nice when it's a 110* out...

All steel line with a short length of hose on each end..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Offline amc49

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #5 on: October 09, 2014, 02:48:23 PM »
Never saw any trouble here in Texas, my view would be possibly in Arizona? If car vapor locks the pump output is down, blocking off bypass increases pump pressure a bit, which helps stop vapor lock. Both bypass and non-bypass pumps used same size diaphragm, only change was the bypass. Another whole circuit to leak in my view.

Never had a customer complain either.

Like they say, use as much metal line as possible and never use rubber in the lowest run, only on the up or down legs and short as possible there.

Offline 65ShelbyClone

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2014, 07:06:33 PM »
I just had this topic rolling around in my head these last few days. What I plan to do is replace my old original 5/16" (AN-5...really uncommon) hard lines with 3/8" (AN-6) corrosion-resistant steel with Teflon-lined stainless braid as as second choice and Parker Push-Lok hose/fittings as a third.

Stainless would be ideal, but it's a lot tougher to bend even in an annealed state. It also quickly work hardens as you bend it, so there is no practical second chance. A tubing bender is pretty much mandatory for any of the hard lines.
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Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #7 on: October 10, 2014, 07:17:13 PM »
This is the way to go for making steel lines, it's so easy to work with if you're not right on with the bend you can tweak it by hand and very easy to flare.

http://agscompany.com/faq/10
Art
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Offline amc49

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #8 on: October 12, 2014, 03:42:47 AM »
That is indeed some good quality affordable line, I use it a lot.

Offline 65ShelbyClone

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #9 on: October 12, 2014, 11:28:52 AM »
Man, that tube is barely more than $1/ft for 5/16 and 3/8". The Napa barrier EFI hose I used for joints cost more than $5/ft! That's in stainless braid territory.  >:(

Had I known about Poly-Armour before I started plumbing my fuel system, I would have just strung new 3/8" hard lines with AN-6 fittings. I may do that anyway.
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Offline dick1172762

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2014, 12:11:59 PM »
This is the way to go for making steel lines, it's so easy to work with if you're not right on with the bend you can tweak it by hand and very easy to flare.

http://agscompany.com/faq/10
      Where do you buy it?
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: Replacing fuel lines
« Reply #11 on: October 12, 2014, 12:39:41 PM »
      Where do you buy it?
I buy mine at the Zone but most parts stores will have or get it for you.
Art
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