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SpaceCowboy1979

Author Topic: 8" carrier removal  (Read 843 times)

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Offline Pintocrazed

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8" carrier removal
« on: October 13, 2016, 08:10:03 AM »
does anyone know what i have to do to remove the carrier from a 8"? like tool wise what size sockets i need. never worked on one before. any tips please send them to my phone 337-789-2577

Offline Wittsend

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Re: 8" carrier removal
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2016, 06:13:33 PM »

Do everything at your and others own risk.

Have a spare gasket purchased. There is some debate on this and others just use RTV sealant. You can look that up and decide.  It has been a while, but I believe there are gaskets (two) at the backing plate/ axle retainers as well.  Prior to any purchase you should see if the axle seals are leaking (look for drips on the bottom of the brake backing plate). You may need new seals too (this will require complete axle removal).

Place a note on the steering wheel stating the rear axle has NO oil!

First secure the car from rolling because both rear wheels will be off the ground and you will have no parking brake or transmission engagement to hold the car.

 Obviously secure the rear of the car in a stable manor on proper stands.

Drain the rear axle by removing the drain plug.

Remove the rear wheels.

Remove the rear brake lines to the wheel cylinders. Fluid will drip out so have a catch basin.

Remove the brake backing plate/axle retainer. You do not have to completely remove it and you "may" get away without removing the parking brake cable. If not you will have to remove that too. Note that there MAY be steel shims. Make sure they stay on the side they are on and do not add or remove any. I can't remember if the 8" has shims like the Dana 44.

Remove the drive shaft being careful to not have the U-Joint end caps slip off (tape the ends). If you completely remove it be careful the transmission doesn't drain fluid! ATF and 90w are awful stuff to clean up.

Unbolt (actually un-nut) the carrier. I'd leave an upper nut for last so the carrier doesn't tip at the top.  At the angles you have to work be careful because it is heavier than you think. A second person and a floor jack are helpful. You may have to "work" it loose, or it may just fall. Be careful.

Clean the gasket surface and install the gasket and or RTV sealant.

Install the gasket (and or RTV) and install the carrier making sure it has not picked up debris during the installing process. You may find difficulty in that the holes and the studs are not aligning perfectly. Again, secure an upper nut first to keep the carrier from rotating downward and falling out. Do not initially tighten the bolts as you install them.  You may need to go around the bolt circle to "walk" the carrier into place if the fitment is tight. Obviously tighten them once the carrier is properly positioned.

Reinstall the drive shaft making sure the caps fit in the yoke properly.

Reinstall the axles (possibly seals). You will have to rotate the axle for the splines to engage.

Remember to keep the steel shims on the backing plate they are associated with.  They should not get bent.  Again, you seal with gaskets and/or RTV applied and bolt the backing plate back on. Also, if the gasket is replaced it requires removal of the whole axle.  I usually cut it at the top with a razor and use RTV to seal the cut to avoid the complete removal. When finished Test/spin the driveshaft to ensure everything is functioning proper.

Reconnect the brake lines and parking brake cable.  You will have to bleed and test the brakes (use new fluid).

NOW is the time to refill the axle with gear oil. Did you reinstall the drain plug?

Lower the car, drive very slowly listening for sounds, testing the brakes etc. In the first days/weeks look for leaks and loose bolts and nuts.

Hopefully that is everything. If you have all the right tools it should take about two hours if you have never done it.

Tools needed. Quality jack stands, floor jack, catch basins for the brake fluid and gear oil, flair nut wrench for the brake lines box/open wrench for the drive shaft, socket with extension for the backing plates, box/open wrench and socket for the carrier (sometimes one works better than the other).

Offline Pintocrazed

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Re: 8" carrier removal
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2016, 07:35:48 PM »
i'm grabbing this at work for another member so no worries about me running it with no oil  ;D

Offline pinto_one

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Re: 8" carrier removal
« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2016, 10:34:46 PM »
Hey I sent you a pm , later Blaine

76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0