PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: LongTimeFordMan on April 17, 2017, 04:00:35 PM
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Hi all..
I have a 73 pinto wagon 2.0 engine, 4 speed trans.
The factory engine only has 60k miles on it and runs well but i want to build another engine to use as a daily driver and keep the factory engine if in the future my grandkids want to return the car to factory original.
I have a rebuildable block which I think is from a capri as it has a rear sump oil pan and rear dipstick.
I have located a front sump pinto oil pan and pickup but was wondering if there are any other differences such as crankshaft flywheel bolts, etc?
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no they are the same except for compression , early ones had higher compression , 73 up had lower , as for what you have to do is punch out the plug in the front and put it in the dipstick hole in the rear ,
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Thanks.. I knew about the compression... and the block that i have seems to have the low compression with the pistons sitting down in the cyllenders
The block i have doesnt seem to have a plug in the front, looks like i need to drill a hole for the dipstick, but ill check.
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if you do not find a hole it could be from a very early capri , which will have the higher compression , the car was out in europe before the pinto was born , great if you got the carb and dist with it , made good power
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I got a long block with just block and head... no manifold , carb or distributor.
I also got a rear sump block less the pan but it was modified for a Model A conversion and one of the bellhousing mounts was cut off the block
The capri block seems to be in good condition with no ridge in the cyllenders. I have a couple of spare distributors as well.
I do plan to need to bore to about .030 and have the crank turned..
But when I got my car, the previous owner had replaced the carb and distributor and I reworked both, rejetted the carb and added pertronix ign., modified the cam pulley to advance the cam about 4 degrees.
I plan to do the rebuild pretty much stock but i have a pair of SU carbs from.a 74 mgb that i will be building a manifold for.
I am aware of the potential of the 2.0. Back in the early 80s i had a 4 spd capri and redid the engine with about 10:1 compression, isk 465×310 cam, header, mallory dual pt dist, holly 390 cfm 4bbl and it would do 7000 rpm...
I just want a fresh engine to serve as a daily driver, dont want to break drivetrain parts, and keep the factory engine for the grandkids..
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That should work great , you might not have to cut the crank if it looks good , may just polish it , as for the bore check and see if it could be just honed before you bore it , unless it has rust , those were good engines back then , most people do not know that it was still being made and used wayup untel the 90s , complete with fuel injection (see Dutchwagons post for photos ) five speed trans mission , good luck , later Blaine
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Knock! Knock! Exit stage left from a wood table! I never broke one, ever. I tried too! 8000 rpm shifts when necessary.
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you are so right on that , I could not destroy one ether , even my brother that could break an anvil with a tooth pick could not , even when turboed , 8)
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If your going to put those SU,s from the MG you might as well put your name on it , these people will cast you a valve cover with your name or whatever you think of on top , Redmond Metalcasting , they are in Ireland and do ship over seas , I posted there name on some other post because they make them for the 2.8 engine as well ,
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Thanks for the info.. when i first got the car i thought about getting an aluminum cover but decided against it for a couple of reasons.
First the factory cover still has the original paint and data sticker on it with appropriate patina.
And i have used aluminum covers on mgb's and they are hard to seal and are really loud, they seem to amplify any valve lash noise..
Also.. i cut a small notch in the backing plate for the cam pulley that aligns with the center rib in the tin cover to align the cam when installing a new belt..
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Hey pinto_one...
I think I might just have the cyllenders and crankshaft measured and try to just hone and polish...
Do you know or have a source for the std bore and crankshaft journal sizes?
Also what do you think of ACL bearings? Igot a set of ACL crank bearings with the blocks I bought.
The main bearings are marked .50 which I think is metric, equivalent to .020"
The rod bearings are marked .75 which i think equals .030
Is it advisable to turn down a crank that far or should i try to find a set of .010 bearings 8f i need to turn the crank.
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Thought I’d just repost the images concerning changing a back sump 2.0 Pinto engine to a front sump. You can also find these in my “72 DutchWagon project phase 2” in the “Your Project” section of the forum.
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Hi.. thanks for the info
I found a source for the crankshaft journal dimensions so I think will take the block to a local mechanic here and have him check it out.
Hopefully I might be able to just hone the cyllenders and polish the crank and use std rings and bearings.
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Capri 2.0 also has a smaller front crank pulley (cast 4" steel)which means aluminum front seal case is different too for timing marks.
Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
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Thanks for the headsup on the pulley...
I do have a pinto block so i suppose that i can use the front cover from it and the pulley on my existing pinto engine.
Are the crankshafts the same