I'm not sure what it takes to adapt a T-5 to a 2.0 engine. However, I did put a T-5 in my early (1973) Pinto wagon when I went to a 2.3 Turbo motor. Virtually everything I did, I did with an angle grinder, a file and a drill. From my perspective it wasn't complicated.
1. I used an angle grinder to cut the shifter opening in the transmission tunnel forward about 2"-3". This took about a minute.
2. I used a file to lengthen the slots in the transmission crossmember. In retrospect (knowing what I know now) I would probably just drill holes as far back as possible. This took about 5 minutes.
3. As mentioned above I simply reversed the crossmember and used the C-4 transmission mount that came with the car. This took no extra time.
4. As mentioned above I used a small piece of steel plate to elevate the clutch cable over the front suspension crossmember. This was simply a drill bit for the two holes and an angle grinder to cut the steel to size. I did weld on an anti rotate tab (in case it ever came loose) but that wasn't absolutely necessary. This took about 30 minutes. Note my pictures show I slotted the crossmembner holes..., but I found that was unnecessary.
5. As mentioned above I cut a piece of steel with an angle grinder to move my shifter rearward. I also cut the lever, shortened it and reconfigured its shape. This I did use a MIG welder for and many may not have that tool. Depending on an individuals idea of proper position and comfort this may or may not be necessary. In my case it took about an hour. It is the one thing in the process that wasn't inexpensive, but only because someone who didn't have a weld would either have to pay someone, or buy one. In my case I had my welder for years.
6. Not mentioned above is I went from a C-4 Automatic / 6-3/4" rear to a T-5 / 8" rear. The original driveshaft fit perfectly without alteration!
So, from my perspective the T-5 adaptation (to a 2.3 in an early '73 Pinto) was rather easy. Again, I never adapted a T-5 to a 2.0 and the inputs shaft length, the proper disc, pressure plate, fork, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, driveshaft alterations etc. might be a far more entailed process. To be honest the driveshaft fitment came as a pleasant surprise. The 8" rear did cost me $115 but I'd rather have the strength of that than to have kept the 6-3/4" and paid a similar amount to have the driveshaft altered.
A few more pictures (clutch cable elevation plate and transmission mount pieces).