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Author Topic: 2.3 motor building question  (Read 3360 times)

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Offline 76hotrodpinto

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2.3 motor building question
« on: December 10, 2014, 12:58:59 PM »
I'm gathering the parts to build a new motor this winter. Another 10-1 compression carbed setup. I have my pistons and rods, but want to know if it's worth the investment for an after market crank(and are there cranks with a more robust flywheel mount?). I am staying with the stock stroke. And if there are any reasons to strap the main caps? I like to over build everything, but they look like pretty stout caps and cranks. Also, is there a "best" auxiliary shaft, factory or aftermarket?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline amc49

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2014, 01:49:07 AM »
Assuming a NA motor if you are going 10/1 compression, at that number you are not going to hurt either the crank or the aux shaft. The crank good for up to 350+ hp. and you are no way going to make that without a turbo. Besides the drank would cost more than entire motor and a waste. Not enough power there to strap caps either.

Offline 76hotrodpinto

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2014, 11:11:40 AM »
That's what I was thinking, but I wouldn't have guessed they were good up to 350hp! As for the aux shaft, I was planning on a hd oil pump, and have read about issues with the stock shaft on the hd oil pump. Is it not an issue?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline The Whistler

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2014, 01:35:33 PM »
Stock crankshaft are good to over 600plus Horsepower! The limit is rumored to be 700 to 750 Horsepower. I have seen them used in engines used in full bodied fox bodies to low 9 sec. 1/4 mile and no failures! Also there are some who run into the 8 sec. range in the 1/4 mile with a stock crank!
Turbo is a way of life

Offline amc49

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2014, 04:28:11 AM »
That is under short term drag race application only, load it like that all the time like in roadracing and no way do they take that much power. On a drag car like that they will definitely have a limit on life after a while there. I did say 350 knowing that was conservative but no way would I say over 500 reliably, the crank is cast and can crack from torsional windup, a forged crank is much stronger. Many much bigger and stronger V-8 cranks can't even make that 750 number. 2.3 crank is also not fully counterweighte d and will break easier for that since all the windup then ends up on the ends of the shaft to break it easier. At those type of power numbers the block will be adding to crank issues too, it will be moving around all over the place.

FYI, HD (I'm assuming high volume what you actually mean) oil pumps commonly sap power, we never used them on race engines except if a specific reason for doing so. They pump more oil but if motor can't use that as most tight ones can't all you do is waste power bypassing extra oil the engine can't use. Around 10 hp on GM SBC engines. The higher volume/pressure WILL load the shaft more there so can make other problems too. We usually ran stock pumps with end clearance tightened up and the pressure spring bumped up a bit to increase pressure.

High volume pumps are generally simply a waste but the conventional wisdom has never figured that out.

Offline 76hotrodpinto

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2014, 11:04:29 AM »
I don't think I have to worry about making that much power, or even 25% of 700hp. Actually 25% of 700hp would make me happy. So the factory oil pump is sufficient for a high rpm motor? I was under the impression that the stock pump has problems keeping the pressure up at high rpm's. Which is the only reason for the big pump and thus the beefier aux shaft too. I don't plan to run competitively, just like to run the track at pir for s*&ts and giggles. And pass chevies!
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline dick1172762

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2014, 12:50:06 PM »
I've run race cars on road race tracks with as little as 35 pounds of oil pressure. The heat in the motor is more important than the oil pressure as the oil must lube AND carry off the heat from the bearings. People worry about oil pressure too much. 10 pounds per 1000 rpm is great, but not necessary at all. All you need at idle is enough to keep the lifters pumped up. In the 60's we ran 80-90 pounds in big block Fords because back then we were using two to three times the clearance that modern engines use. Save your money and use a stock oil pump. Its all you will ever need.
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Offline 76hotrodpinto

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2014, 01:05:39 PM »
And a stock aux shaft?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline dick1172762

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2014, 06:29:44 PM »
That's all I've ever had. Only thing I ever broke was rod bolts before I got APR or is that ARP rod bolts.
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Offline amc49

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #9 on: December 13, 2014, 03:26:23 AM »
X2, 10 pounds of pressure per 1000 rpm is all you need on an engine that has no normal oiling system quirks.

Offline 76hotrodpinto

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #10 on: December 13, 2014, 11:04:33 AM »
Any thoughts on oil pan/pick up tube mods?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline dick1172762

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #11 on: December 13, 2014, 11:16:40 AM »
I've ran the stock pan / pick up on all of mine. No problems ever.
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Offline 76hotrodpinto

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2014, 11:17:57 AM »
How about any oil journal mods? Or other crank case machining mods? Aside from the conrod cap bolts, any other areas that could use better fasteners, larger fasteners?

With all the money I don't need to spend on a crank, I can afford that shiny chrome fan belt!
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline dga57

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2014, 12:33:48 PM »


With all the money I don't need to spend on a crank, I can afford that shiny chrome fan belt!

 ;D ;D ;D I like the way you think!!! ;D ;D ;D

Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

Offline dick1172762

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #14 on: December 14, 2014, 06:02:46 PM »
How about any oil journal mods? Or other crank case machining mods? Aside from the conrod cap bolts, any other areas that could use better fasteners, larger fasteners?

With all the money I don't need to spend on a crank, I can afford that shiny chrome fan belt!
     The only thing I did was using a Chevrolet V-8 / Datson 510 full flow oil filer. Moroso makes an adapter to move the filter to the inter fender panel. You must not rev the engine when cold or you could blow the filter off. Don't ask me how I know. With this filter you have 100% filtering and no bypass of dirty oil to the pan. I have done this on all of my race cars and most of my street cars. I also use an Orbak tattle tale filter before the regular filter so I can check out what's going on down below in the engine. I keep changing my ideas about oil too. In the 60's and 70's I ran straight 40 weight. Now days I run 10W40 in the racers,  10W30 on the street and 5W30 in autocross cars. Castrol is what I use with STP if the car has a flat tappet cam in it. No STP if the car has a roller cam although the STP will not hurt anything. Don't take my word on this, its just what I've got away with over the years.
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Offline amc49

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #15 on: December 14, 2014, 10:05:04 PM »
I like 10-40 oil as well, I certainly don't buy into the 5-20 everybody swears by today. I'm in Texas where the -40 is helpful in the summer. I used to run straight 30 all year long in the 2.3.

I ran AMC non-bypass filters for 100% filtering on my 2.3 too, the AMC center filter post fits into Ford after the other one removed. The AMC filters were same size as FL1 on Fords. They just do not have the bypass feature.

Make sure the rods have the oiling spit hole to squirt oil on cylinder walls, if stock Ford rods some early ones did not have those holes and the pistons tended to scuff up on the load side at cold starts.

Offline 76hotrodpinto

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #16 on: December 16, 2014, 11:35:52 AM »
I'm not certain if I'm going with another oval port or something else, but I want to order the head bolts and gasket. Are the bolts the same? Or head specific? And what's up with that $100 head gasket? I hear everyone uses the felpro, but is it better(or as good)? Or just good enough for the cost? What is the best timing sprocket setup, if not the stock ones? I will be running an adjustable cam sprocket on this one too.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Offline amc49

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Re: 2.3 motor building question
« Reply #17 on: December 16, 2014, 08:09:08 PM »
The heads are dimensionally the same other than port shape so bolts are the same. I at least DID use Felpro gaskets but some of their stuff is getting crazy stupid in price.

You mentioned aux shaft above, it really has no load on it and no need for anything special there. Main thing is to check the distributor drive gear for heavy wear.