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Author Topic: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion  (Read 3252 times)

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Offline dennisofaz

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2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« on: February 11, 2014, 03:29:45 PM »
Hi,


I have a 1974 Runabout that has a 2.3 with a C-3 transmission, and i am going to change the transmission to a C-4.  I think I have all of the parts, but I'm not sure on some details.  For parts I have a rebuilt C-4 with the proper 2.3 bellhousing, converter, flexplate, and shortened driveshaft with a C-4 yolk.  What I don't know is if the shifter & kickdown linkage is the same, and if the neutral safety switch needs to be rewired.  Thanks in advance for the help!


Dennis

Offline dennisofaz

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2014, 09:50:46 PM »
Just an update, I got my car back from a local mechanic so the C3 is out, and the C4 trans is in now, and working pretty well.  I had to disconnect the kick down function because it was not adjusted yet, and would constantly down shift at a 45MPH cruse.  Now i have reverse and reliable forward gears when cold. ;D   There is a problem though and that is the dipstick tube, a Lokar C4 specific part, does not fully insert into the transmission.  The Lokar dipstick tube has 2 rubber o-rings to seal with, but stops short of inserting the second o-ring.  All of the parts to change from a C3 to C4 worked well, and the only "not bolt on" part was the transmission lines.  One line had to be cut and extended with hose to reach the rear trans coolant line.  So here's to many more miles in my Pinto!


Dennis

Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2014, 09:56:01 PM »
Glad to hear it's running good..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Offline amc49

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2014, 10:34:55 PM »
FYI extending lines with rubber can work forever unless wrong rubber hose used, it needs to be more expensive trans cooler line or like higher pressure fuel injection hose. Normally picked cheap fuel line for 5-7 psi will blow out (up to 40 psi at times in cooler circuit) and the hose itself can blow off the steel pipe if no barbs put on pipe and it was simply cut clean. In that case use TWO hose clamps on it, the doubled up clamping guarantees the hose will never blow off.

I've seen expensive rebuilds burned up both situations there. It can happen in a couple seconds if you are hard in a kickdown when it happens.

When it comes to dipstick tubes you need the correct tube and MATCHING stick for it, there can be more than one for same transmission depending on body trans is in. You don't need but one o-ring to seal but the fact there are two and only one goes in says stick will be incorrect and too high to have you overfill fluid to hit the mark. Every trans has a depth from tube absolute end to bottom of pan and the tube/stick need to work in that same range. The absolute length of the tube does not matter per se as long as same stick that goes with it is used. I've used wrong tube/stick before and simply filled trans with needed exact fluid amount, drive car to establish it shifts with no issues then remark stick to what level is in trans at that time.

Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2014, 10:45:01 PM »
Myself I'd just make new lines out of Poly-Armour tubing, it's cheap and very easy to work with and you can route them any way you want for a nice custom fit.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Offline dennisofaz

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2014, 10:56:58 PM »
Thanks Guys,  trans cooler line was used along with double clamps, so hopefully it will last.


Dennis

Offline 74 PintoWagon

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2014, 07:03:17 AM »
I'll probably be making the switch on mine too after the summer..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Offline cannonball

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2014, 01:21:50 PM »

I THINK YOU MIGHT FIND THAT LOKAR DIP TUBE IS EITHER BOTTOMING OUT ON THE PAN EDGE OR EVEN THE GASKET OVER HANGING THE HOLE, OR OBV HITTING THE CASE SOMEWHERE, GOOD TO SEE YOU DOUBLE CLIPPED THE PIPE SOMETIMES YOU CAN JUST BELL THE STEEL LINE A LITTLE TO HELP HOLD THE RUBBER LINES ON,
YOU JUST WANT THE KICKDOWN CABLE TO PULL THE LEVER OVER AS YOU FLATTEN THE GAS PEDAL

Offline dennisofaz

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2014, 03:08:38 PM »
Hi Cannonball,


Great suggestions on what could be causing the tube hangup.  :) [size=78%] [/size]


The Kick down lever has plenty of adjustment range, so I will fix it soon.



Dennis

Offline amc49

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2014, 05:03:59 PM »
You can easily rebend or even shorten/extend the kickdown rod that came on the car without buying overpriced parts like Lokar makes......... .........wonde rful stuff but way too expensive for what it does in my view.

The lever you may find has very little adjustment when using a non-standard rod, you may have to add or remove a couple inches depending on what's needed there. I use same rod even when flipping carb pull ninety degrees. It must be sectioned to do so.

Offline dennisofaz

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2014, 10:55:31 PM »
Thanks AMC49,  The kick down mechanism has a screw like an idle screw for adjustment, so all I need to do is to back it off a few turns to fix it.


Dennis   

Offline amc49

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Re: 2.3 liter C-3 to C-4 conversion
« Reply #11 on: February 28, 2014, 02:54:10 AM »
Or, you are roughed in very well already. Good deal.