Go to turboford.org or YouTube.com both have lot's of information and much better pictures than that book.

What I do is simply mark the belt and the two sprockets with paint. I mark two teeth on each sprocket/belt area  just so there is no misunderstandi ng. On the 2.3 I would include the third intermediate sprocket as well.  I then remove the belt (don't rotate anything) transfer the same marks to the new belt (double, even triple check), install the belt aligned to the previous set marks and carefully release the tensioner to ensure they stay aligned.  This doesn't negate most of the factory procedure,  rather I do it to remove the ambiguity that the timing marks I see and what the manual shows can be eliminated.  Just about any illustration I've ever seen in a manual never quite looks like what I see when I look at the marks.

 So, as long as the engine ran right when removed the paint marks keep the same relationship as the old belt. If your belt was broken or if you suspect it has slipped a tooth..., well your going to have to rely on your skills to interpret the manual.

BTW, the timing belt and the ignition timing one does with a timing light are only remotely related.  That being the belt turns the shaft that drives the distributor.  so, if there was some wear/stretch to the belt the ignition timing may be off slightly.  But the timing light has no function of setting the crank/cam timing. Crank/cam timing is a specific count to teeth to specifically oriented sprockets.

What I do is simply mark the belt and the two sprockets with paint. I mark two teeth on each sprocket/belt area  just so there is no misunderstandi ng. On the 2.3 I would include the third intermediate sprocket as well.  I then remove the belt (don't rotate anything) transfer the same marks to the new belt (double, even triple check), install the belt aligned to the previous set marks and carefully release the tensioner to ensure they stay aligned.  This doesn't negate most of the factory procedure,  rather I do it to remove the ambiguity that the timing marks I see and what the manual shows can be eliminated.  Just about any illustration I've ever seen in a manual never quite looks like what I see when I look at the marks....
Crank/cam timing is a specific count to teeth to specifically oriented sprockets.

http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=23994.0

That's very helpful information!
Thanks.

Done this quite a few times but it depends on which lower seal plate you have , some have more clearance at the very bottom and just enough room to remove and install the timing belt without removing the lower pulley, did this last year on out airport tug (Harlan) got a few at this airport ,  had to tilt that top of the belt towards you from the top sprocket and middle sprocket , hope you have a warm place to do it because the belt is stiff when cold,  if your luck and get it off that way put the new belt in hot water for a few , then quickly install the belt,  make sure it is free of any oil after, oil attacks the rubber and the teeth will sheer off or the belt will stretch and brake later, (like a valve cover leak ) if you do have to pull the lower pulley you need a strap wrench to hold the pulley , first you need to have to put a spacer or something close on top of the bolt and hit it a few times with a large hammer , helps , use a long pull bar to remove the bolt , better if you have air you could use a air impact gun, hope this helps , to bad your so far away I would do it for you , later , Blaine in Mississippi

That idea works great, I use it from time to time too. I don't even tie down the bar, just rotate engine correct to hold it in place against any piece of frame or suspension I find that is real solid. Have the socket on firmly or it will twist the corners off bolt. Better to have the bar angle at less than 90 degrees than more. Never found a bolt it couldn't knock loose.

Or instead of risk breaking something, simply use an impact wrench instead. There's plenty of room to get one in there looking at the photo.

I'm fixing a car now were nothing works because the previous owner half-@553D everything and wrecked the rest, so it just reinforces my refusal to take or recommend anything resembling a shortcut.

Harbor Freight has a 1/2" drive electric impact wrench for $39 that will break loose any bolt on a 2.3 ford engine. I have one and its really great. And I don't have to fire up the compressor. You really shouldn't work on a car without the proper tools. You will do more harm than good.

Can't get that site to come up. You really should use the socket / breaker bar set up like the 3 of us stated. There is nothing to break on any car that I know of. There are videos on u-tube that show how to do it.