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Offline rob289c

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2.3 Engine Removal
« on: July 14, 2020, 06:21:17 AM »
Can the 2.3 engine and (automatic) tranny be removed from the car as an assembly?  Or do I have to remove separately?  It appears that the cross member may prevent removal as an assembly.  Any advice or war stories will be appreciated.  Guess what I'll be doing this weekend?!!   ;D
rob289c

Offline Wittsend

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2020, 10:57:59 AM »
I never tried it as a unit. Space does seem tight and generally you have to get the car up high enough. I just find it safer, easier to do the removal separately. Less likely to dip ATF on the floor too.

Offline rob289c

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2020, 04:21:58 PM »
Thank you for the reply.  The Haynes manual says to remove separately too.  I'll give my report this weekend after I get it out...
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Offline lugnut

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2020, 12:06:30 AM »
I have removed the engine and trans together before; need to remove the radiator and lift it high and tilt the tail way down. Also the manuals say to remove the hood, but I just open the hood all the way and put bungee cords to hold it open. This is by memory, its been a few years!
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Offline rob289c

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2020, 05:42:52 AM »
Thank you for confirming that it is possible.  I already took the hood off.  I will be borrowing my buddy's engine hoist Friday after work.  I plan to get everything drained, disconnected, and out of the car Saturday.  I will try to pull as an assembly (tranny attached).  Did the starter have to be removed when you pulled out together?  I was lucky enough to never have had to replace a starter on any of my previous 3 Pintos over a 6 year period, but I think the steering rack has to be disconnected and dropped for the starter to clear.  If I pull eng/trans out together, I could probably leave the starter in place?
rob289c

Offline 65ShelbyClone

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2020, 12:21:31 PM »
I pulled the 2.0/4-speed out of my '72 together and put the 2.3T/T5 in together. The hood was off and the radiator out. I don't think it would be practical to attempt without a load leveler as seen below. I wouldn't think an automatic would be much different. Just tie a driveshaft yoke into the back to hold fluid in.


2.0 out:


2.3 in:
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Offline rob289c

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2020, 06:43:46 PM »
Evidence that it can be done!  How about the starter...in place or removed?  Not sure if my buddy has a load leveler; if not, I'll buy one at Harbor freight and give it to him so I can borrow it again!  I used one when I put the 289 and C4 back in my '67 Fastback and it worked slick.  I'll be out in the shop Saturday AM.  Provided everything comes apart nicely, I should have it out by the end of the day.
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Offline rob289c

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2020, 05:48:59 PM »
Engine and tranny out as an assembly.  I spent most of yesterday draining and disconnecting everything.  I removed every underhood wiring harness as a part of the engine removal.  I plan to use the engine, tranny, wiring harnesses, cooling system, shifter, etc, etc as a part of another project.  I will start a new thread to show you what I'm up to.  This Pinto will never see the road.  It was driven in NY winters up until 2007, then sat outside in the dirt until I bought is 3 years ago.  let it sit outside on asphalt until this Spring when dragged it inside and got it running for the first time in 13 years.  The floors are gone, and the frame is so rotted, it is ready to fold in half.  The shackles are about to go through the floor.  It's too bad...the body parts look decent, but the undercarriage looks like it sat in salt water.  Once I get everything off it I need, I plan to donate whatever is left.  I found what I think is a 79 in a nearby trailer park and saw it driving once so I am going to go knock on his door and/or leave a note letting him know I have parts that he is welcome to to keep his on the road.  If anyone here needs anything that I have no use for, you are welcome to it.  It will be mainly body parts and other stuff I won't need for my project.  See my new post to see what I am building...
rob289c

Offline rob289c

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2020, 06:41:05 AM »
I was pleasantly surprised to find that my tranny is a C4, not a C3.  I never really looked close enough until it popped out.  I assumed it was a C3 but it's a C4.  Much better selection for rebuild kits and other parts.  It has a B-servo.  I'm not sure it that's any good.  If it needs to be rebuilt, I will find one of the better-holding servos to replace it with.  This morning I am going to degrease/powerwash the engine and tranny.  It's a lot nicer working on something that is relatively clean.
rob289c

Offline Wittsend

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #9 on: July 25, 2020, 10:48:26 AM »
The C-4 to 2.3 bellhousings sell from decent money. 9 years ago I got one from Pick Your Part for I believe it was $18 and it sold on Ebay for $180. My part number was D24P7976AA1

I was at the yard for other things and it took about an hour to get it out. That said, lacking a jack to properly lower it, after the nearly hour spent, there was some holding of my breath as I yanked the trans back and let it fall on a car seat hoping that I didn't create Fords version of the Liberty Bell.

Offline rob289c

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Re: 2.3 Engine Removal
« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2020, 06:05:35 AM »
Here are the pics of the nicely degreased and power washed engine/tranny.  The oil pan is in pretty good shape.  Being covered in sludge for may years helped prevent corrosion.  I feel better with it clean; a lot nicer to handle and disassemble.  At this point I'm not going to tear it down and rebuild.  It ran pretty well with no knocking or other noises.  I can rebuild later if it uses a lot of oil.  I will re-gasket the valve cover, oil pan, new water pump, new timing belt and tensioner, new water pump, new fuel pump, more cleaning and Ford Blue paint on the block and oil pan, natural aluminum for the head and black with natural finned valve cover.  I have a chrome air cleaner and will be getting one of those crappy headers that look cool but probably will kill performance for a street engine.  It's ok; I'm going for "show" and not necessarily "go" for my trike project.
rob289c