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Author Topic: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR  (Read 3999 times)

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Offline Pintocrazed

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2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« on: March 04, 2015, 12:55:45 PM »
OK FOLKS NEED FRIENDLY INFO FROM THE PROFESSIONALS HERE.BOUGHT A 2.0 MOTOR THATS BORED .30 OVER GOT A BIG VALVE HEAD AND A LUNATI CAM.CAM SPECS ARE LIFT 440, INTAKE DURATION 238, EXHAUST DURATION 248, LOBE SEPARATION 108, CENTERLINE IS 106, INTAKE VALVE LASH IS .10, EXHAUST IS .12.GOOD COMBO?

Offline dianne

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2015, 07:55:59 PM »
OK FOLKS NEED FRIENDLY INFO FROM THE PROFESSIONALS HERE.BOUGHT A 2.0 MOTOR THATS BORED .30 OVER GOT A BIG VALVE HEAD AND A LUNATI CAM.CAM SPECS ARE LIFT 440, INTAKE DURATION 238, EXHAUST DURATION 248, LOBE SEPARATION 108, CENTERLINE IS 106, INTAKE VALVE LASH IS .10, EXHAUST IS .12.GOOD COMBO?

I can send you my 2.0 motor if you'd like and you can send that POS. LOL
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Pintocrazed

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2015, 07:59:57 PM »
Haha Dianne!!!everything is brand new in it.paid 500 because the guy quit racing 10 years ago.motor was built and put on a shelf at his friend's shop.no rust due to everything having assembly lube.best part got it shipped from orlando to pineville,la for $140!!

Offline dianne

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2015, 08:49:47 PM »
Haha Dianne!!!everything is brand new in it.paid 500 because the guy quit racing 10 years ago.motor was built and put on a shelf at his friend's shop.no rust due to everything having assembly lube.best part got it shipped from orlando to pineville,la for $140!!

That would be awesome in my Mustang II racer. I'm doing a 2.3 EFI from a Fox Body in mine. Just waiting on a new crankshaft, hopefully next week.

That engine sounds great. Are you using it for racing or just for a daily car?

That sounds like a pretty sweet deal you got there!
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Pintocrazed

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2015, 08:54:12 PM »
Daily driver and ocassionally the drag strip just to play

Offline dianne

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2015, 09:08:10 PM »
Daily driver and ocassionally the drag strip just to play

Cool. Did you find a header? I just bought one for a ranger for the II racer, but if it fits the Pinto easily it would go in that one!
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Pintocrazed

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2015, 09:23:06 PM »
Yep bought one from aguy that got it an was told it fit his 80 model pinto but it was for the German 2.0.i think I paid 50 plus shipping

Offline amc49

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2015, 11:56:30 PM »
If ATX trans and the checking lift for those durations is .040" or .050" then you will have too much intake duration; the car will fall on its' face until the RPM is way up. A MTX cam there and needing more rear gear too most likely. Probably need more compression too.

Offline Pintocrazed

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #8 on: March 05, 2015, 06:58:12 AM »
IM GONNA SWAP TO A STANDARD WHEN I GET A FLYWHEEL.OH YEA AND IT HAS A MALLORY DUAL POINT DISTRIBUTOR

Offline dianne

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #9 on: March 05, 2015, 06:59:52 AM »
That's awesome. You got some good buys here. I still think you should use my 2.0 and send that one here LOL

Nice, post some pics!  :P
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Pintocrazed

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #10 on: March 05, 2015, 07:02:44 AM »
YEA I COULDNT COMPLAIN BOUT PAYING 500 FOR IT.ILL TAKE SOME TONIGHT IF ITS NOT TO COLD AND WET

Offline dianne

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #11 on: March 05, 2015, 07:46:20 AM »
YEA I COULDNT COMPLAIN BOUT PAYING 500 FOR IT.ILL TAKE SOME TONIGHT IF ITS NOT TO COLD AND WET

Cool, looking forward to seeing it!
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Scott Hamilton

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #12 on: March 26, 2015, 07:55:02 AM »

YEA I COULDNT COMPLAIN BOUT PAYING 500 FOR IT.ILL TAKE SOME TONIGHT IF ITS NOT TO COLD AND WET

Crazed, wow dude... Great score! After Diane gets done with it you can send it my way... Would love to play with that!

Sweet...  :)
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Offline dianne

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #13 on: March 26, 2015, 07:58:07 AM »
Crazed, wow dude... Great score! After Diane gets done with it you can send it my way... Would love to play with that!

Sweet...  :)

Need another 2.0 Scott? I have one with 2 auto transmissions!
Vehicles:

- 1972 Plymouth Duster (To be a Pro Street)
- 1973 Ford Pinto wagon (registered ride 195)
- 1976 Mustang II mini-stock
- 1978 Mustang King Cobra II
- 1979 Ford Pinto Runabout
- 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer
- 1997 Suzuki Marauder

FORD: Federal Ownership Respectfully Denied

Offline Wittsend

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #14 on: March 26, 2015, 10:12:19 AM »
The 108 lobe separation creates a lot of overlap. They causes lower RPM torque to drop.  The cam is better suited for high RPM use (and lower gears) as AMC 49 stated. If the engine was (properly) built for racing the compression ratio (CR) may have been compensated for that. Thus, another potential problem would be that you cam it for street performance. Then the CR could be too high.  In the end a well built engine is a SYSTEM with an intended purpose.  You can cheat it a little this way and a little that. But, eventually you start to defeat purposes.

I'd find out what the compression ratio is and then consider changing the cam to one of those "cheating" edges towards more torque at lower RPMs. And, before that I'd just try the engine the way it is. Maybe you like it that way (or learn to like it).  A fresh engine for $500 isn't a bad deal. I would however, consider changing the timing belt. Rubber has a way of deteriorating just sitting there and you said it has been 10 years.

Offline Pintocrazed

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #15 on: March 26, 2015, 11:02:11 AM »
WHAT GEAR RATIO YOU SUGGEST

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2015, 11:40:56 AM »
WHAT GEAR RATIO YOU SUGGEST

With 205/60 -13 radials, and a 8" rear with Posi, a stock 4 speed and my 3:40 gears, it was snappy and had enough top end to embarrass many 5.0 L stock mustangs. Of course, that nicely modded 2.0L and dual Webers helped a bunch at 7 grand shift points.
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Offline Pintocrazed

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2015, 12:04:55 PM »
IM PUTTING A 5SPEED BEHIND IT WITH 14" TIRES.GOT THE SMALL FACTORY REAREND WITH 3.40 GEARS BUT CAN GET A 8" WITH 3.40 GEARS

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2015, 12:10:23 PM »
Without a L/S Rear gear diff, you'll just spin the inside tire on corners. It's a tough call to find a 6-3/4 rear L/S unit, Better to go with a 8" rear as more L/S units available. Ask me how I know, being a Autocrosser/Hillclimber :D
Yes, it is possible to study and become a master of Pintosophy.. Not a religion , nothing less than a life quest for non conformity and rational thought. What Horse did you ride in on?

Check my Pinto Poems out...

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2015, 12:22:07 PM »
I GOT A 8" JUST WAITING FOR GOOD WEATHER TO GO PULL IT OUT SO I CAN SAND BLAST PAINT IT AND INSTALL IT AND REBUILT IT

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2015, 01:10:55 PM »
OR A FOXBODY REAREND WITH 3.73 GEARS AND LIMITED SLIP FROM THE FACTORY

Offline amc49

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2015, 07:11:18 PM »
That last much better. Hi-perf cams loathe road gear less than 3.50.

Lobe centers are screwy things. You can move them up and gain revvability and you can drop them to do the same as well. The old school long duration cams for OEM hi-perf engines often increased them tremendously to like 115 or so, but dirt trackers looking for mucho low end lower them as low as 104. The dirt trackers use shorter durations (at least on intake) to bring up midrange and low, but the shorter LC then allows for lots of overlap to make for good breathing even low. Tremendous lift ramps then make up for lack of duration to let the engine pull down low and high at same time. The higher OEM numbers like all the Z-28s and such used have long durations and long LC to not lose so much in driveability and mileage with OEM engines due to too much overlap. In my view long LCs let the engine rev EASIER at higher rpm but they do NOT make as much out and out power while doing it. Because they split up the top end performance pair, they spread out the durations for better breathing but they kill overlap as well doing that. You make more power by spreading durations to make the intake late and exhaust early but by increasing the overlap too. Increased overlap is wasted though without an efficient exhaust say tuned, one other reason why the OEM cams are long LC, the cast iron manifolds used on the cars. Put a good set of headers and you instantly need more overlap there.

Kind of moot since these cams are locked intake and exhaust together, when you go DOHC another whole vista of tuning appears. On these SOHCs you tune mainly using the intake closing point, the most important thing going on there. What you are mostly feeling when you degree the cam to different numbers.

Offline Pintocrazed

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #22 on: March 26, 2015, 07:26:19 PM »
So go to 3.55?

Offline Wittsend

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Re: 2.0 PERFORMANCE MOTOR
« Reply #23 on: March 26, 2015, 08:51:52 PM »
Hummm..., I wonder how long those dirt track cam/lifters last with the stated ramps? Sounds like a need for roller lifters there. My old school '85 Corvette engine in my Studebaker has a 114 LC. I have a DOHC in my Mazda Protege. Advanced the intake 3 degrees and tricked the ignition timing 4 degrees (advanced) and I can feel a small difference where it counts.

Anyway, sorry to sidetrack, back to the car/engine at hand.  As I stated earlier, I'd install the engine and just see what you have "AS/IS." That way you are evaluating instead of "guestimating."  As to gear ratios remember (because I PREACH it all the time) the tires AND the gear ratio work hand in hand.  As the tire diameter goes up or down it is exactly like changing the gear ratio. So, to state 14" tires isn't enough. The specific tire size (and then its diameter) is needed.  Once you know this engines advantages and shortcomings you will be able to "guess" better at what ratio/tire size would be beneficial.  The 3.40 is  a decent start point. With a T-5 and 175-70-13 tires I'm at 2,600 RPM at legal freeway speeds.  And, the 4.01 first gear is likely an advantage given the suspected torque curve of your engine. Once you have all the figures use a calculator (they are all over the internet) and see what is a livable daily driver freeway RPM and what this engine allows (or need to be modified towards) for decent acceleration. From my experience if you had 3.73 gears you probably could eliminate using 1st gear (predicated on the 175-70-13 tire I'm running).

Like I said earlier it is all a system that needs to be optimized. You will just need to cheat it to where it benefits you the most, or come to the conclusion that the engine needs to be tamed downward to be practical on the street.