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russosborne

Author Topic: 1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses  (Read 322 times)

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Offline Jays74

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1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses
« on: July 22, 2019, 08:21:15 AM »
Was hoping someone can help me out
I got a 1974 ford pinto wagon with a 2.3 and stock 4 spd trans and carb
My question is where do the vacuum hoses run/go to from the vacuum advance under the distributor ?
Does anybody have a schematic diagram of the vacuum line hoses and where they run and go
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance,  jay

Offline nnn0wqk

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Re: 1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses
« Reply #1 on: July 22, 2019, 10:36:02 AM »
Hope these help

Offline Jays74

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Re: 1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses
« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2019, 11:25:11 AM »
Thanks nnnowkq
I'll give those pics a shot
Thanks again

Offline nnn0wqk

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Re: 1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses
« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2019, 01:57:51 PM »
Be happy to take specific ones for you that was just what I could find in the computer this morning. Thought I had the actually vacuum diagram but could not find it at the time.

Offline Jays74

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Re: 1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses
« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2019, 02:05:26 PM »
I had to actually order the clymer 71-80 pinto shop manual this weekend in hopes of finding the schematic diagram
Anything would be of great help
Can't get to get the wagon to idle smooth even after new fuel pump,  carb, fuel lines and complete tune up.  .runs fine at top gears just the idle is rough and all I can think of is vacuum lines at this point

Offline nnn0wqk

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Re: 1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses
« Reply #5 on: July 22, 2019, 04:12:22 PM »
Mitchel manuals would be a better choice. Might find them in a public library. When I worked in the tuneup shop back in the day that is what we used. Mine years ago jumped one tooth on the cam. Very poor idle and low vacuum. Higher speeds ran OK but was down on power. The grade I climbed everyday in 4th became a 3rd ordeal. It was winter time and I had gone through some very wet snow climbing that grade. When I finally figured out what had happened and got the timing back correct everything went back to normal. Not saying that is your problem but something to check. I will try and take some pictures for you this evening. Dennis

Offline Scott Hamilton

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Re: 1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses
« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2019, 11:59:33 AM »
Does this help?



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Offline Jays74

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Re: 1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses
« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2019, 05:35:16 AM »
Thanks Scott and Dennis
I'm gonna be tackling the vacuum lines issue this weekend
Both ur information has been great and I'm sure it's gonna help alot ☺
Any schematics,  pics and literature is appreciated,  thanks again. Jay

Offline LongTimeFordMan

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Re: 1974 pinto wagon 2.3 vacuum hoses
« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2019, 01:50:48 PM »
Not sure if this would help but have you tried adjusting the mixture screw?

Also does the car bog or stumble upon acceleration from just off idle or on sudden accelleration.

This could be caused by too lean mixture from improper carb jets/airbleeds or a vacuum leak.

Try checking the distributor vacuum advance xiaphram dor leaks, these frequently wear out and perforate or rupture. You can test the diaphram by removing the distributor cap and watching to see if the distributor plate moves when you apply vacuum to the advance ports

You can do this the high tech way with a vacuum pump or the old fashion way by using a hose attached to the port and "sucking" on the tube. If you can feel air flowing continuously thru the tube (ie you cant get a vacuum) or the distributor plate doesnt move when vacuum is applied or you can blow tbru the tube, the diaphram is bad and needs to be replaced.


Also a note on "rebuilt" holly weber carburetors.

I understand that the 74 year carb and vacuum systems are a lot different from the 73 models but i found the "rebuilt" holly weber carb on my 73 to be problematic.

They are progressive 2 bbls and each barrel has an idle jet, an idle mixture screw, a main jet and an air bleed, and an accellerator pump jet, all of which need to be matched for the carb and the specific engine application to perform properly.

Also.. since the webbers have been around so long, were fitted to so many engines they had a lot of different jet and airbleed combinations.

The jet and air bleeds and the idle jet all need to be matched for correct fuel metering and idle.

Often the "rebuilt" carbs arent up to original quality because the rebuilders often just mix and match the jets and air bleeds when assembling the carbs so mismatches are common.

This is made more confusing in that ford and webber had different jet identification systems so even if a jet fit it may not be proper for the application.

AND even if set up corectly the jets may be too lean for todays alcohol gas.

When i got my car it had a "rebuilt" carburetor and stumbled really badly on accelleration. I had to have the main jet in the primary barrel reamed out by a carb shop to make it run.

Even then the secondary jet was too small and when the secondary throttle opened it bogged badly.

No matter what i did the carb just crapped out at 4500 rpm

I spent 2 years trying to tune my holly webber and finally ended up replacing it with a pair of SU carbs from a 72 MGB. With the SUs the stock engine with stock cam easily pulls 6000 rpm.

The WEBER carbs from high dollar racing shops can be made to run really well and can deliver up to 120 hp but they cost upwards of $500.

But you would be lucky to find an average rebuilt on to even perform as well as the factory carb.

Also .. i second the post about checking the timing belt that can really affect the way the engine runs.... its probably time to check and maybe change  the belt anyway as preventive maintenance.

And you might want to investigate installing an adjustable cam pulley and advancing the cam timing about 4-6 degrees. That will dramatically improve your low end torque with the factory cam. Ford retarded the cam timing as much as 8 degrees in the 70s to meet smog requirements and this is why the 2.3 is rated with the same power as the 2.0 and less than the 1971 2.0 which has 100 hp.

I advanced mine 6 degrees and that moved the bottom of the power curve down from 3000 to about 2400 and it still pulls hard to 6000.

Just some thoughts.
Red 1973 pinto wagon DD, SoCal desert car, Factory 4 speed, 3.40 gears, Stock engine, 14" rims and tires, 60 K original miles