Author Topic: The Restoration Of my 1977 V-6 Pinto Crusing Wagon (Read 54444 times)

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #120 on:** April 13, 2014, 02:30:04 PM »

I like the milk jug washer idea. I always used good masking tape to protect fresh paint but that seems faster.

DBSS1234 · « **Reply #121 on:** April 16, 2014, 07:39:54 AM »

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!! Fired up the motor last night for the first time since the rebuild. Last time I had heard it run was in 1992. Runs very nice but still needs a little fine tuning to be perfect. After watching all these auto restoration shows where there is always some major leak or other problem at first fire up it is nice to say "no leaks and the transmission is shifting fine". It is nice to have things go right once in awhile.

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #122 on:** April 16, 2014, 08:16:31 AM »

GREAT TO HEAR AND CONGRATS!!! MOST OF THOSE TV SHOWS ARE A JOKE! A LOT OF WACK AND PACK - MAKE IT LOOK GOOD FOR TV!!

YOURS IS A TRUE RESTORATION WITH QUALITY WORK AND PARTS!! THE WAY IT SHOULD BE!!!

HOPE TO DO THAT TO MY 75 BOBCAT IN 35 YEARS WHEN IM RETIRED AND NEED A PROJECT!! TILL THEN JUST GOING TO CRUISE!!

Pintosopher · « **Reply #123 on:** April 16, 2014, 02:54:00 PM »

Quote from: DBSS1234 on April 16, 2014, 07:39:54 AM

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!! Fired up the motor last night for the first time since the rebuild. Last time I had heard it run was in 1992. Runs very nice but still needs a little fine tuning to be perfect. After watching all these auto restoration shows where there is always some major leak or other problem at first fire up it is nice to say "no leaks and the transmission is shifting fine". It is nice to have things go right once in awhile.

Always good to hear of a successful resurrection, The Holy Horses of our Olympic corral are pleased, Always ready with the feeler gauges...

Pintosopher, confidant to the Trek we all must engage!

79prostreet · « **Reply #124 on:** April 16, 2014, 08:37:42 PM »

That has to be a fantastic feeling! enjoy...

DBSS1234 · « **Reply #125 on:** April 19, 2014, 08:25:53 PM »

Final prime is done! First picture is after hand blocking the inital prime with 220 grit dry. This step gets the body perfectly straight. The other two pictures are of the car after the reprime (2K urethane primer). You can see from these pictures I masked off the entire bottom of the car with sheet plastic. This is the only way to keep my detailing from getting spoiled by all the overspray. Next step is to block sand it with 400 grit dry and lighly sand with 600 wet. Then COLOR COAT!!

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #126 on:** April 20, 2014, 07:55:17 AM »

Looking good, can't wait to see it done..

77CrzgWgn · « **Reply #127 on:** April 22, 2014, 05:47:11 PM »

OMG! I'm inspired. You rock!

DBSS1234 · « **Reply #128 on:** April 26, 2014, 08:04:11 PM »

HI-YO SILVER! The car is finally silver again! I painted it a urethane base coat/clear coat system (three coats color and four coats clear). The reason the paint is not shiney in the pictures is they show the paint after I have "color sanded" out all the orange peel texture with first 800 grit foloowed by 1000 grit sand paper wet. Next I will add the stripes and finish sand with 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit on a palm DA sander. Then finally I will buff it back to a nice shine.

As to how I am replacing the stripes, the third picure is a tease. More details to follow.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #129 on:** April 27, 2014, 06:26:46 AM »

This topic is full of awesomeness !

Good work !

You'll be bored when it's done.......I think I'll store my white car at your place for the winter

DBSS1234 · « **Reply #130 on:** April 27, 2014, 07:06:33 PM »

As promised, more details on how to repaint the original stripes on a tape striped car. The tool shown above is a pounce wheel. Think of it an itty bitty spur on a stick. Dress makers use it to transfer patterns.
First, as I showed earlier in this thread, I made rubbings of the stripes along with noteing key points to enable me to repostion the rubbings on the body panels. Then I used the pounce wheel to poke a string of small holes on the rubbing lines. Then hang the pierced rubbing back on the car. Using blue carpenters chalk and an old sock make a bag with the chalk in it. When you pat the templates with the bag some of the chalk will go thru the holes and leave the pattern on the car! Now carefully mark the lines with a pencil, if you don't do this you WILL accidently brush some of the chalk off when putting on the macking tape, usually in a very critical location. Here are pictures of the process.

DBSS1234 · « **Reply #131 on:** May 07, 2014, 07:56:02 AM »

Yipes! Stripes! My Pinto's got em! Some of you may remember this Beachnut chewing gum commercial, if so you get the joke. If not, google it.
Laid down the last stripe (purple) Monday and peeled off all the masking paper last night. Next step is to sand the stripes with 1000 grit, sand the entire car with 1500 and 3000 grit with a palm DA, and finally buff it all back to a blemish free high gloss!

The reason the silver is so dull is it has already been sanded with 1000 grit before the stripes were laid down.

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #132 on:** May 07, 2014, 09:29:31 AM »

looks great! cant wait to see it on the ground and in the sun light!!!

dianne · « **Reply #133 on:** May 07, 2014, 04:48:52 PM »

Quote from: DBSS1234 on May 07, 2014, 07:56:02 AM

Yipes! Stripes! My Pinto's got em! Some of you may remember this Beachnut chewing gum commercial, if so you get the joke. If not, google it.
Laid down the last stripe (purple) Monday and peeled off all the masking paper last night. Next step is to sand the stripes with 1000 grit, sand the entire car with 1500 and 3000 grit with a palm DA, and finally buff it all back to a blemish free high gloss!

The reason the silver is so dull is it has already been sanded with 1000 grit before the stripes were laid down.

This looks AWESOME!

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #134 on:** May 07, 2014, 05:06:11 PM »

Looks great..

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #135 on:** May 08, 2014, 02:32:51 AM »

Man is that gonna look good buffed out

dga57 · « **Reply #136 on:** May 08, 2014, 04:54:36 AM »

That's looking fantastic!!!

Dwayne

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #137 on:** May 08, 2014, 07:52:48 AM »

Wish I had the panels on mine..

dianne · « **Reply #138 on:** May 08, 2014, 08:26:33 AM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on May 08, 2014, 07:52:48 AM

Wish I had the panels on mine..

They have them on ebay

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #139 on:** May 08, 2014, 08:54:28 AM »

Yeah, I seen them on there and they wanted almost as much as I paid for the car, and they weren't even in that good of shape..

dianne · « **Reply #140 on:** May 08, 2014, 09:01:16 AM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on May 08, 2014, 08:54:28 AM

Yeah, I seen them on there and they wanted almost as much as I paid for the car, and they weren't even in that good of shape..

There are two of them there at 295 and 200 with a best offer button on the 295. Those look to be in pretty darn good shape

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=+PINTO+Wagon+Cruiser+Panels+&_sacat=0&_from=R40

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #141 on:** May 08, 2014, 09:07:48 AM »

Thanks, guess I'll have to keep an eye out for them again, I gave up when I saw the ridiculous prices..

dianne · « **Reply #142 on:** May 08, 2014, 09:30:10 AM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on May 08, 2014, 09:07:48 AM

Thanks, guess I'll have to keep an eye out for them again, I gave up when I saw the ridiculous prices..

$200 to $300 seems like a good price honestly. What do you think is a ridiculous price?

Just got an air damn for the Pinto LOL Now I need to start thinking about a power plant or doing what Scott did to his

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #143 on:** May 08, 2014, 09:51:46 AM »

Quote from: dianne on May 08, 2014, 09:30:10 AM

$200 to $300 seems like a good price honestly. What do you think is a ridiculous price?

No that's not bad, but $800 is as far as I'm concerned.

dianne · « **Reply #144 on:** May 08, 2014, 10:13:35 AM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on May 08, 2014, 09:51:46 AM

No that's not bad, but $800 is as far as I'm concerned.

So, with those are we about to see a cruising wagon now? LOL Offer the one with the 2 of them $200, worse that can happen is he can say no

Clydesdale80 · « **Reply #145 on:** May 08, 2014, 10:51:43 AM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on May 08, 2014, 09:51:46 AM

No that's not bad, but $800 is as far as I'm concerned.

I've got a pair I could give you a deal on. PM me it your interested.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #146 on:** May 08, 2014, 07:34:48 PM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on May 08, 2014, 09:07:48 AM

Thanks, guess I'll have to keep an eye out for them again, I gave up when I saw the ridiculous prices..

Make sure when you get them that ALL the filler pieces are included. There are also drip rail extensions but Tigger has a set for sale. My panels are useless since I only got the sides. I didn't know there were more pieces needed to install them.

dianne · « **Reply #147 on:** May 08, 2014, 08:27:54 PM »

Quote from: Pinto5.0 on May 08, 2014, 07:34:48 PM

Make sure when you get them that ALL the filler pieces are included. There are also drip rail extensions but Tigger has a set for sale. My panels are useless since I only got the sides. I didn't know there were more pieces needed to install them.

You know, I've been thinking about putting those panels on my 73 wagon. I see the drip panels you're talking about in the back.

First off, would those fit a 1973 wagon? How are they in there, are they welded, like spot welded, or placed in there on something like a big window. There would probably have to be some welding and cutting on removing the post in the middle.

I think about it, then I think about having to do a color change so stripes would work on the car. With brown I would really be limited in color choices.

I dunno to be honest... Not certain the amount of labor and hours. I have a welder now I can call to do work. Maybe, I don't know. How many hours to install those and the drip rails in the back?

79prostreet · « **Reply #148 on:** May 08, 2014, 09:02:59 PM »

Dianne, the panels are not that hard to install, Four screws in the front and four in the back( that are covered w/ a metal strip that is almost always missing) the drip rail extension and two long tar like seals top and bottom. it's the factory inner panel that gets a little harder to install, if a person plans to use the factory panels. If you would like my picture gallery have pic's that show most of what I'm saying( may have to look around a little) Bud

Clydesdale80 · « **Reply #149 on:** May 08, 2014, 09:19:44 PM »

Quote from: Pinto5.0 on May 08, 2014, 07:34:48 PM

Make sure when you get them that ALL the filler pieces are included. There are also drip rail extensions but Tigger has a set for sale. My panels are useless since I only got the sides. I didn't know there were more pieces needed to install them.

I have no filler pieces or inner panels with the ones I have. I guess my uncle didn't know those were necessary when he took them off 30 years ago. So are my panels just useless then?

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Author Topic: The Restoration Of my 1977 V-6 Pinto Crusing Wagon (Read 54444 times)