Author Topic: Here is my '80 hatch I call Callisto (Read 12144 times)

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #60 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:30:38 PM »

I finally got to work on Callisto after too many delays to count.

I picked up a 2300 in another deal & was going to toss it in to get her on the road but found a wiped cam lobe on #4 then dropped the pan only to find a couple pieces of metal in the bottom of it. I dont recognize them but I'm not gonna waste new gaskets on an iffy engine. Looks like I'll just change the rear main in the other engine & get it ready to drop in. I know it runs great & only has 20K on the rebuild anyhow.

I pulled the rack today before heading to work. I wanted to install the poly rack bushings as well as the inner/outer tie rods & rack boots before I put the engine in. Guess that's on the list for this weekend. I want to clean & paint everything I missed when I did the engine compartment. I hope I can get this running by mid July. I miss her......

r4pinto · « **Reply #61 on:** May 23, 2012, 11:48:46 AM »

Missed out on a lot of updates on the car I see. The work you've done looks really good so far. Must be nice to have an Ohio car that isn't a rust bucket. Needless to say I'm jeaulous lol. Can't wait to see what you do next to Callisto.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #62 on:** May 23, 2012, 09:02:36 PM »

I got real lucky on this car. It had a dealer decal on the stock bumper & I think it said Waikem Ford. It was garaged most of its 83K miles & when I bought it the expired plates from 1996 were still on it.

The only rust is a few pinholes around the gas filler, small holes in the front footwells as well as behind the front seats & bubbles along the bottoms of both doors.

I have clean floorpans & the gas filler area & Pintony brought me some sweet doors from Fred Morgan so this car will be nearly flawless when I get through. The $1000 purchase price was a steal but I'm easily gonna drop another 4K whipping her into shape but she's worth saving.

r4pinto · « **Reply #63 on:** May 23, 2012, 09:35:25 PM »

Wow that's awesome. Good thing we got people like Fred & Pintony that we can get parts from. I got my car from Hilliard & it shows that it spent a big part of its life in Ohio. Not a pretty site.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #64 on:** May 25, 2012, 11:17:17 PM »

I dug into my frontend finally.

I can't get the lower control arm bolt out though. I have new bolts but hate to cut them incase I need them for the other car. I got the rack cleaned & painted as well as the NOS control arms. New Moog inner & outer tie rods as well as boots & this things as good as new.

Urethane rack mounts & dust boots as well as strut rod bushings will go on but I'm leaving the control arms rubber for longevity. I've had urethane deteriorate too quickly in daily drivers so Im only putting urethane in the easy to change locations.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #65 on:** June 18, 2012, 06:26:30 PM »

I finally got the fence up around my pool to get zoning off my back & had 5 hours today before work to FINALLY get on this damn frontend. I swear EVERY time I touch this car 10 things jump onto my TO-DO list as priority 1 jobs.....

I sawzalled the LCA bolt to get it apart & got to work with wire wheels & scrapers after I took the fender off so I could rid myself of the layers of undercoating that saved this car. Her winter days are over forever.

Wow! It cleaned up nice

3 hours later, some laquer thinner then Prep-sol to remove residue followed by 2 coats of gloss black chassis enamel & she looks better than new.

Now I need to blast the UCA's, paint them, install the new bushings & ball joint & assemble this side of the car. The UCA's, springs, strut rods & sway bar are the only parts I'm re-using. Everything else is either new Moog, Energy Suspension or NOS Ford up front.

I'm still keeping an eye out for NOS UCA's that are affordable but haven't had any luck in 3 years. I don't want tubular or aftermarket repops here. I'll only settle for NOS or recycle the 80K mile stockers.

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #66 on:** June 20, 2012, 07:52:13 PM »

what a project!! its looking great!!!! still havent got that terrible turbo set up on my wagon yet. just got a 85 turbo block and head for it, so i hope to have in soon

take care

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #67 on:** June 20, 2012, 08:29:15 PM »

I wondered why I hadn't seen any posts of it running yet. I've seen a couple of those draw thru's pop up on craigslist lately but they all seem to be missing parts. At least that one's complete & only needs an oil return line.

I just spent $60 at Summit on more chassis paint, header, engine & caliper paint plus some cast iron paint to do the intake & bellhousing. I have 4 days off & I plan to kick a$$ on this sucker.

If nothing gets in my way I'm hoping to assemble this side of the car, clean & paint the underside of the fender & get it back on & then do the drivers side to match. I think that's a reasonable goal to shoot for with about 30 hours of spare time to utilize.

Ricpinto · « **Reply #68 on:** June 21, 2012, 04:59:57 AM »

Greensales shows they have two of the UCA's. Going by the Ford parts book they should be complete with bushings & ball joint. And marked with 'pink paint'
My ? is if the bushings are installed how do you install the cross shaft.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #69 on:** June 21, 2012, 07:37:57 AM »

Quote from: Ricpinto on June 21, 2012, 04:59:57 AM

Greensales shows they have two of the UCA's. Going by the Ford parts book they should be complete with bushings & ball joint. And marked with 'pink paint'
My ? is if the bushings are installed how do you install the cross shaft.

I think you would destroy the bushings pressing them out then back in with the cross shafts.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #70 on:** June 21, 2012, 09:50:49 AM »

This is going to be my sons 1st car & I have no idea if he will pick up my mechanical skills or just become a parts swapper. I am keeping the car "PARTS STORE FREINDLY" for his sake. The few exceptions are the 2" drop spindles (which should never wear out) & take stock Pinto calipers & the 5 lug rotors which can be replaced by stock 4 lug in the event he cant locate a 5 lug rotor quickly & needs to get the car mobile. Stock axles were drilled to 5 lug out back along with 2 sets of stock drums to give him a spare set. I may buy a 2nd pair of 9" 5 lug rotors for him down the road as well.

Everything else is stock Pinto like calipers, brake pads, clutch cable, brake hoses, suspension bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc. The flywheel & clutch are stock Turbo Coupe & the bellcrank & clutch fork are stock Mustang.

Getting a 37 year old (2017 he turns 16) classic car that he loves may be cool but keeping it rolling is another story. I've replaced EVERYTHING that unbolts with new or NOS parts including the heater core to keep him as maintenance free as possible but eventually stuff will wear out.

Trying to anticipate future needs has driven me crazy. I went so far as to pick up a spare MSD 6A box & a 2nd MSD distributor just in case one fails. I think it's my OCD that causes me to overthink everything but I sure wish I had a father who would have done this for me.......

Runabout75 · « **Reply #71 on:** June 22, 2012, 08:08:40 PM »

That interior is amazing for a 30 year old car.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #72 on:** June 22, 2012, 09:14:43 PM »

Quote from: Runabout75 on June 22, 2012, 08:08:40 PM

That interior is amazing for a 30 year old car.

I honestly wouldn't have bought this car if it wasn't for that interior. I really didn't want another hatch but between the 20K mile engine & the near spotless interior I just had to have it. I have the mint black sport steering wheel which will go back on it once the restoration is complete. I put the chrome one on there temporarily because I didnt have a car cover yet & didn't want it baking in the hot sun. I got a great deal on an Evolution cover to save her since I can't spare a garage space just yet.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #73 on:** June 22, 2012, 09:46:14 PM »

Made everything look pretty before assembly.

That's one side mostly complete. Still have to pull & paint the sway bar & install the rack. Strut rods were almost rusted in two so Fred is sending me some beauties from Arizona. Considering there is virtually no rust on this car I can't believe the condition of the strut rods. One was ready to snap & was thinner than a pencil. I will check every Pinto I own from now on.

Finally got to bolt one of her new wheels on to get a pic.

Now for the other side......

Runabout75 · « **Reply #74 on:** June 23, 2012, 04:14:38 PM »

Any interest in selling a couple of the wheel caps from your parts car? I'm looking for 2 just like that.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #75 on:** June 23, 2012, 09:51:58 PM »

Quote from: Runabout75 on June 23, 2012, 04:14:38 PM

Any interest in selling a couple of the wheel caps from your parts car? I'm looking for 2 just like that.

Those caps are junk. They are split up the sides like they were hit with a sledge. I had to bend the tangs in the back to keep them from falling off.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #76 on:** June 24, 2012, 10:30:15 PM »

The end of this strut rod was surprisingly eaten away for a low mileage car even though it did see a few Ohio winters early in its life. I can bend it with my hands because it's so rusted.

I spent the day cleaning the underside of the fender for paint. It's a shame this will all be hidden from view. Damn, it sure turned out nice.....

Srt · « **Reply #77 on:** June 25, 2012, 03:10:07 AM »

I spent the day cleaning the underside of the fender for paint. It's a shame this will all be hidden from view. Damn, it sure turned out nice.....

but that's the difference between good & good enough.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #78 on:** June 25, 2012, 04:11:55 PM »

Quote from: Srt on June 25, 2012, 03:10:07 AM

but that's the difference between good & good enough.

Thanks for noticing where my OCD takes me LOL

I spent 4 hours on the underside of that fender.

Unfortunitely the weekend flew by & I didn't get as much done as I wanted but at least one side is complete. It's hard to work on the car when the sun's shining & the kids keep bugging me to go swim or ride bikes.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #79 on:** June 29, 2012, 07:11:38 PM »

I put in 16 hours over the last 2 days on the Pinto. I made great progress on the drivers side.

It was a mess under the fender with tar & undercoat but it was free of rust.

Broke both T-bolts on this side. The passenger side came right off....

3 hours of scraping, wire wheeling & degreasing later it was ready to paint.

That's so much better now.....

Got a jump on re-assembly. Can't do much without T-bolts which I'll have in the morning.

Everything is painted. I hope to finish the frontend up tomorrow.

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #80 on:** June 30, 2012, 01:49:05 PM »

that is going to be on detailed pinto!!! i want to do my that much to my 75 bobcat hatch, ill do it when i retire in 40 years, it will give me a project!!!

great work!! the end result will be awsome!!!!!

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #81 on:** June 30, 2012, 09:01:52 PM »

Quote from: bbobcat75 on June 30, 2012, 01:49:05 PM

that is going to be on detailed pinto!!! i want to do my that much to my 75 bobcat hatch, ill do it when i retire in 40 years, it will give me a project!!!

great work!! the end result will be awsome!!!!!

Thanks

I didn't earn the nickname "CAPTAIN OVERKILL" for nothing. It was going to be some simple parts swapping until my OCD took over & you see where that takes me LOL....

At least I wont have to do anything twice. All I know is my son better take care of this sucker or I'll take it back $:-\$

Here's todays progress. Went to Kenny's Rod & Custom this morning & picked up new T-bolts & braided brake lines for the front. The stock Pinto lines were hitting the spindle & they were a little short so I got 20" lines.

I installed the Energy Suspension control arm bushings & the new Moog ball joint & started assembly.

This side went together easy compared to the passenger side.

In went the new KYB GR2 gas shocks.

Followed by the brake lines(zip tied hose over them for rub protection) then the strut rods(with poly bushings) & steering rack.

I didn't put the sway bar on yet because I didn't realize the right side steering rack bellows differs from the left so I ordered one & have to wait for it so I can button everything up.

Srt · « **Reply #82 on:** July 01, 2012, 02:40:25 AM »

rear window louvers:

"......All parts were included but there is a series of holes running up them with no explanation of why. I cant figure out why the holes are present but I found the same thing on pics of other Interpart louvers so I guess its something they just did..."

concerning the holes in the slats; they may have been or are for a 'stiffener' to prevent the slats from flapping in the breeze and to eliminate vibration

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #83 on:** July 01, 2012, 08:05:22 AM »

Quote from: Srt on July 01, 2012, 02:40:25 AM

rear window louvers:

"......All parts were included but there is a series of holes running up them with no explanation of why. I cant figure out why the holes are present but I found the same thing on pics of other Interpart louvers so I guess its something they just did..."

concerning the holes in the slats; they may have been or are for a 'stiffener' to prevent the slats from flapping in the breeze and to eliminate vibration

It seemed like something was missing but I never thought about a vibration reducer. It's probably the same principal as twisting the straps when you secure a load on a flatbed truck. If you don't twist them they catch the wind.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #84 on:** July 01, 2012, 09:35:42 PM »

Today I decided to tackle the wiring. I removed the Duraspark wiring as well as the voltage regulator wires. I'm converting to an MSD ignition & a 130 amp 1 wire alternator so there was no use leaving it there.

The voltage regulator wiring was crumbling & the main wire from the fusible link was losing all its insulation. The rest of the harness looks great but I'm adding some weatherpak connectors in a few spots to make it easier to hide it under the inner fenders & run it through the holes.

Now that the frontends done I can get a look at the new lower stance. Once the engine & transmission is installed it should come down right where I want it to be.

Snapped a pic of the window sticker & build sheet.

Apparently this car has a special order 42 Gold Sports Package whatever that is.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #85 on:** July 02, 2012, 11:01:26 AM »

Very nice work !

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #86 on:** July 02, 2012, 09:03:21 PM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on July 02, 2012, 11:01:26 AM

Very nice work !

Thanks

I've tried to get this project started for nearly 2 years. I pulled the engine in Oct. 2010 to change the leaky rear main seal & remove the turbo & it took until now to find time to work on her. I waited long enough lol....

Put in 5 more hours before work & got the wiring straight. I wont spiral wrap it until I add the MSD wiring.

I also cleaned & painted the left fender.

Then I painted the engine compartment in gloss. The satin wasn't doing anything for me....

I think it may be time to install the engine & transmission so I can finish the wiring & make mounts for the aluminum radiator. I may get to drive her before winter afterall......

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #87 on:** July 08, 2012, 10:08:24 PM »

It was waaaaaay too damn hot this weekend to work on Callisto but I did spend a few hours sweating to install the new master cylinder that replaces the new rebuilt one that was put on prior to the car being parked back in the 90's. I'm not big on rebuilt M/C's to begin with let alone a nearly 20 year old one.

Also recieved the correct passenger side rack boot & installed it along with the swaybar. I tightened everything up, installed the last cotter pins & pumped everything full of grease. All that's left is to bleed the brakes & take her in for an alignment once she's road ready.

I hope to have the radiator & make the mounts next weekend. I'm buying a radiator for a late 80's Dodge Dakota. It measures 18" x 22" & will cool the 3.9L V6 so my 2.3L should never get hot. I wanted a modern plastic & aluminum radiator & this one already has a 1 1/4" inlet on the top left & a 1 1/2" outlet on the bottom right. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be able to run stock radiator hoses which is a plus.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #88 on:** July 09, 2012, 05:57:31 PM »

I swung by Summit between runs & picked up my radiator today. It was $107 but I had a $20 off coupon so with tax I spent about $94 for a brand new radiator with a warranty that fits perfectly, will cool a V6, is easily replacable & should take stock Pinto hoses.

All I have to do is make a mount & I already have it designed in my head. I can't wait to tackle this & get it outta the way.

The plan for this car will eventually include an EFI Turbo set up & since this is already a fresh turbo engine it will be a bolt-on deal plus the wiring. This radiator was chosen with that thought in mind......

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #89 on:** July 09, 2012, 06:32:07 PM »

what is the radiator for?
as far as car make and model??
thanks
eric

looks like a 2.3 setup rad. not v6, by the hose locations!

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Author Topic: Here is my '80 hatch I call Callisto (Read 12144 times)