Thanks Pintony!  You are the man :male: !

Hello,
  Welcome to the world of Pinto's.  I see that you are commenting off a post that is nearly 6 years old.  A number of years ago "Pintony" was barred from posting to this forum. I will leave it to someone higher up in the PCCA to explain why.   Additionally, Pintony was not a fan of converting a '71-'73 Pinto from stock (in most cases).  That said, I have a '73 wagon that I have converted to 2.3 Turbo and a T-5.  I'll do my best to answer your questions:


1 & 2 . The T-5 had only one ratio set with the 2.3 motor. Mine is a '88 ('87 is the same) T-5 and I converted to an '86 bellcrank. The '87-'88 hydraulic (at least as used in the Turbo Coupe) is NOT the way to go. I'd recommend the bellcrank because of availability and the fact that the arm needs to be bent slightly to align (when moving the cable upward to clear the suspension crossmember).

3. I assume you are talking about the transmission crossmember. Reverse it and slot the bolt holes. I slotted ALL the holes to give a little flexibility. If your talking about the suspension crossmember I cleared the cable over it by using a small metal plate (with two holes) that bolted to the original cable hole and then the cable. It moved the cable upwards and slightly outwards.

4. I believe all the 2.3 clutches are basically the same.  The clutch and pressure plate from the '86 I got the bellhousing from looked great and I used them on my '88 flywheel.

5. I have no experience with the D-4, D-9 bellhousings.

6. I think the Turbo trans was rated to the engine output. Not sure if non-turbos were rated differently The input shaft for sure is a different length than the V-8 transmissions.

7. I swapped over from a C-4 automatic and I just reused that mount.  The '87-'88 Turbo Coupes has a round mount that if it even would work needs fabrication to use.

8. Yes, the transmission crossmember bolt holes (as stated above) will need to be slotted.

9. Shift mods will depend on your size and preferred driving position.  I made a plate to move the shifter back about 2" as well as shortened it by cutting and welding. It is my opinion that the shifter is too far forward. I also feel the shifter is too long. But, I'm 6' tall, long waist-ed and prefer my legs out straight.

10. I'll make a guess on the starter motor and say no, it shouldn't be an issue but can't confirm for sure.

If you search my posts "Wittsend" you can see write-ups and pictures of the swap.  Hope this helps.

Tom

This thread has most of the info I'm after but it doesn't reference the stepped dowel pins. Does anyone have a source for them? I remember someone on here was making them.
 
What is the part number & manufacturer of the 10 spline disc that fits the 2.0 pressure plate? 
 
I've seen how Turbopinto72 got the upper holes to work but has anyone tried welding some material to the bellhousing to bolt to the 2.0 upper holes?

off this topic, kinda  that website is a pain in tha @ss to become a member on!! i have tried atleast 5 times with some type of issue every time!!!
 
 

heres pauls contact info...
Send me a PM or an e-mail to turboford@charter.net or call me at 860-642-4429

Thanks,
Paul

What bellhousing was Pintony talking about ?. I have a '72 2.0 with a 4spd now, looking into the future for a 5 speed and need to start collecting parts. The motor/trans are in a Model A with 4.11 gears and I want to stay away from a hyd clutch.

What bellhousing was Pintony talking about ?. I have a '72 2.0 with a 4spd now, looking into the future for a 5 speed and need to start collecting parts. The motor/trans are in a Model A with 4.11 gears and I want to stay away from a hyd clutch.

I believe Pintony is referring to a non-hydraulic 2.3 bell housing. They can be bolted to a 2.0L using 4 of the 6 bolt holes using step down dowels (in two of the holes for proper alignment). My son has been using one for years behind a 2.0 turbo with no issues. The T-5 trans is a common upgrade if you want a 5 speed. If you are using 4.11s and can use a model A old school (long) stick shift then you should be good. The T-5 is about 1.5 inches forward in the shift tunnel over the Pinto 4-speed (and the T-9 5 speed). I know you're are looking for a T-9 but they are really hard to find in any condition and really expensive to rebuild. The input shaft needs to be modified (it's too long) for a 2.0L. I have extensive mods and big $$$ in mine. The Pinto I'm currently building has the T-5. It's a 2.0L with an A.K. Miller turbo and 3.18 gears (may go with 3.40s). The T-5s are cheap, plentiful, and stronger than the T-9s. I have about $900 in my race mod T-9 and $70 in my Pick-Your-Parts T-5/with bell that does not need a rebuild.
 
71HANTO

Thanks guys, I guess I'll look for both and see which shows up first. I'm going to use old pedals so it will be linkage for the clutch. I was already looking at shortening the shift tube/shaft and moving the housing forward so the shifter will be in a usable area. I've seen the AK Miller set-ups come up for sale once and awhile, right now I just have the edelbrock dual carbs and a header on it.........I drove it home in stock form with a C4 so some more power was needed.

Ok, found some parts after 3 junkyard visits. A 1988 Mustang 2.3 T5 with bell (I think I need to use the 2.0 motor plate?), S10 tail housing and shift rod.

Your 2.0 isn't stock is it? And yeah, I'd run the 2.0 block plate.

I like this idea myself. Actually quite simple to do. I trust Pintony on 2.0 advice so be prepared to run around in 4th gear until you have the power to use 5th. I'm going to use the stock 4 speed & only swap to the T-5 if my engine can run the 4 speed to it's rev limit with ease. If I can't go over 4K RPM in 4th at half throttle there's no point adding a gear.
 

 

Apparently he tapped the upper 2 holes in the 2.3 bell & threaded in some all thread. Notching the sides of the bell to use the lower bolt holes is a 10 minute job with a carbide cutter. I like this method because it can be done at home in an afternoon.

I wanted to post a small update. I was having some other aluminum stuff welded so I added the T5 bell to the pile. Fits good, used the '87 clutch set-up, but noticed the that the 2.3 mustang setup isn't level and has the trans at a slight twist to the drivers side.

'He also said that anyone thinking of putting a T-5 behind a bone stock 2.0L was making a huge mistake. The stock engine won't pull 5th gear. I was planning to use it behind my built 2.0 but even at 115-120 HP its not gonna pull hard in 5th. I'm just warning anyone before they waste the time, effort & money trying to run it behind a 70 HP stocker.'

I would not doubt that one little bit. The zetec engines that Ford used around '95-'05 are rated around 130 HP and once they get well used to let power drop off to around 100 HP or lower an ATX PCM will routinely kick them into 4th at the slightest hint of too much load. The engine otherwise is lugging and not enough power to pull the gear and the PCM has that designed into the software. It can tell by how far you are into throttle (TPS output) to decide the issue one way or the other. Once the engines cross around 150K miles they routinely drop into 4th and stay there at any uphill incline at all. It can get kinda crazy in hilly country and using cruise, lots of upshift/downshift going on there.

I have a 71 with a mildly modified 2.3 and t-5 with 3.55 rear gears and fairly tall tires on 15 inch rims and the overdrive works pretty good even in town at speeds above 45. Yes if I am going slow and climb a hill I have to downshift but if your car has 3.40 and higher gears it should work fine, I would never go back to a 4 speed.

Hello Group,
 I got my NEW Borg warner T-5 tonight. I will be showing how I rebuild and install this tranny in the coming weeks. I have hurt my old T-5 and will be replacing it with this newly aquired unit.
 This is the "World Class" T-5
My install will be behind a 2.0 Turbo BUT should help othersW 2.3 in their quest for overdrive tranny.
From Pintony

I am drooling. The one thing I would like for my hopped-up 2.0L is a 5 speed to get a higher top gear and bring the engine RPM on the highway. But how much modification does it take?

1. Does the driveshaft have to be shortened?
2. Does the gearshift position need to be changed?
3. How do you adapt to the back of the 2.0 engine.

I know little to nothing about tranny interchanges. Where can I get info?

Thanks!