Author Topic: 302 motor mounting (Read 12082 times)

WTR 70 · « **Reply #120 on:** October 27, 2011, 05:09:46 PM »

how much of a project is putting one of those in? i think that looks sweet!

Reeves1 · « **Reply #121 on:** October 27, 2011, 05:16:50 PM »

Same as a 302w except for headers. No one makes them & I will be going custom.

But you have a ton of info here now : you need to start yours.

There is no try, only do, or do not (Yoda)

I'll be going to Sweetgrass MT to pick my B2 up. I could bring my 302w & T-5 down for you to the same place, ship from there. Just lowered the price by 1k.
PM for info if you are serious.

WTR 70 · « **Reply #122 on:** November 03, 2011, 08:15:25 PM »

cant afford now, and im getting everything gathered up finally, doing mine over christmas break, school is interferring lol

Reeves1 · « **Reply #123 on:** December 28, 2011, 08:54:59 AM »

Turns out they will not work on BOSS 302 heads. Not even close !

WTR 70 · « **Reply #124 on:** January 10, 2012, 09:31:54 PM »

finally got the swap started! doing lots of modifications, cut the firewall up and modifying the pan, set the motor back to where i can run a manual fan and radiator without cutting the core support or removing the sway bar. also removing th mounts, got a set of mounts from a 73 mustang, just gotta fab up some mounts and then build the firewall.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #125 on:** January 12, 2012, 05:50:16 AM »

I did a sort of opps.....while the engine was out of my car I meant to take pictures of the frame mounts. Never seen ones like these.
I'll take pictures next time I pull the B2 for the re-build.

Go with the short water pump & pulleys. Gives you an extra 1.5" at the front.

Rad support doesn't need to be cut. Install the flywheel & water pump, dampner etc after the motor is in & you will have planty of room to drop the engine in.

If you have some help, the flywheel , trans etc can be installed at the same time. (I do all my work alone)

WTR 70 · « **Reply #126 on:** January 12, 2012, 10:23:58 AM »

i just bolted the actual trans to my motor, didnt put the clutch in or anything yet, i set it in with the mustang 2 pan and it like wedged in between the rack and the sway bar, so i pulled the factory pan back out of the scrap pile, lifted the motor back up, and while still in the car swapped the pans (not an easy task) and then measured how far i could modify the pan for clearence and still have room on the pickup tube. i used the mustang 2 pickup, its a bit shorter than a factory one, gained another half inch there. im not sure if i have the short pump or not, but i threw a fan on it and actually set the original radiator back in, and i have clearence for everything. i ended up moving the motor back about 4 inches. ended up having the shifter line up perfectly with the factory hole.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #127 on:** January 12, 2012, 11:19:50 AM »

Short water pump.

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/STREET_ROD_SHORT_V_BELT_WATER_PUMP_p/m-8501-e351s.htm

Pulleys for short water pump.

http://www.cvfracing.com/ford-racing-short-pulleys-s/54.htm

Brackets are on the same site.

WTR 70 · « **Reply #128 on:** January 13, 2012, 12:24:45 AM »

is that damper required or do ya know? or should it work by changing pump and pulleys

dave1987 · « **Reply #129 on:** January 13, 2012, 12:41:48 AM »

I am interested in seeing how you got it all to fit and still have a sway bar. I hope to keep my sway bar on when I do the swap on my 78, if at all possible.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #130 on:** January 13, 2012, 06:14:49 AM »

Quote from: WTR 70 on January 13, 2012, 12:24:45 AM

is that damper required or do ya know? or should it work by changing pump and pulleys

Just change pump, pulleys and alt brackets. Depending on what timing cover you have, it may need changing as well.
I was told I would have to change mine so ordered it. Turns out I did not need it.

One parts guy also told me none of the parts would work on my BOSS 302 as it is a big block. I told him no , it is not a big block. Just sell me the parts ! LOL !
I did however, have to order the 351C alt brackets , due to the bolt pattern on the heads. They should be here this week.

Alt is just hanging there on one bolt. The new brackets will make it sit different & back farther.

WTR 70 · « **Reply #131 on:** January 13, 2012, 11:14:41 AM »

do you have clearence for a fan and the radiator on the inside of the core support?

Reeves1 · « **Reply #132 on:** January 13, 2012, 12:40:23 PM »

Haven't found a fan yet to try.

Went to the local junk yard & they had not a one ! All electric. Nothing older than 10 years.

WTR 70 · « **Reply #133 on:** January 17, 2012, 04:06:12 PM »

i have been using the factory one of the 4 banger to mock up, i might just use that fan and the original radiator, i just had it redone and not really wanting to buy an aluminum one, even though $130 isnt bad

Reeves1 · « **Reply #134 on:** January 18, 2012, 05:55:21 AM »

Your original rad will not be enough for a V8.
If you have a rad shop near by, they should be able to make any rad size you want.

WTR 70 · « **Reply #135 on:** January 18, 2012, 11:05:02 AM »

any factory ones that will work?

v8junkie · « **Reply #136 on:** January 18, 2012, 12:10:55 PM »

Quote from: WTR 70 on September 15, 2011, 06:44:33 PM

so where is the cheapest place to buy a mustang 2 oil pan

I did a v8 into a 74 wagon years ago, i have many pictures of this car i may post later. My point i want to make though is that i used a 66 mustang 289 and altered nothing from stock on the motor except the passenger exhaust manifold. I had to mill off the heat tube for the choke for added clearance. I did however move the passenger 2.3 mount forward vs. Moving the drivers side back. So there are options, each having positives and negatives. I hope this helps.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #137 on:** January 18, 2012, 12:29:37 PM »

Back in the 70s when I built the 3 72s with a 302w I used the stock pan as well.

WTR 70 · « **Reply #138 on:** January 18, 2012, 04:18:26 PM »

anyone looking for a mustang 2 pan and pickup tube? i have one i'd sell now

Reeves1 · « **Reply #139 on:** January 18, 2012, 05:18:11 PM »

Quote from: WTR 70 on January 18, 2012, 04:18:26 PM

anyone looking for a mustang 2 pan and pickup tube? i have one i'd sell now

Before you sell it, try it & a stock pan. See which one gives you more clearance for the engine to be lower & farther back.

WTR 70 · « **Reply #140 on:** January 18, 2012, 05:39:15 PM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on January 18, 2012, 05:18:11 PM

Before you sell it, try it & a stock pan. See which one gives you more clearance for the engine to be lower & farther back.

i modified my stock pan and the stock pickup tube, i set it back farther then either of them would without being modified, so i decided to cut the stock one up insted of cutting the mustang 2 one, so i could resell it

WTR 70 · « **Reply #141 on:** January 19, 2012, 12:53:44 PM »

i'd post a pic of the pan but idk how to add that

Reeves1 · « **Reply #142 on:** January 19, 2012, 01:00:50 PM »

Simple.
Start a Photo Bucket account. Load pictures. When done, put your cusor over a picture. In the pop up box there will be 4 code line boxes. Click the bottom (img) box & it will auto copy.
Right click in your post where you want the picture & "paste".
Leave a line or two between each picture, or they may end up side by each & make your post too wide.
You may want to start a topic in Your Projects about your build.
Would like to see pictures !

WTR 70 · « **Reply #143 on:** January 22, 2012, 01:32:44 PM »

anyone ever attempt to build headers for these? i found a set of manifolds but only have an 1/8 inch on either side. just ordered flanges and 90 degree mandrel bends to try to build a set. if anyone has, any input would be appreciated

Srt · « **Reply #144 on:** January 23, 2012, 03:05:14 AM »

Quote from: WTR 70 on January 22, 2012, 01:32:44 PM

anyone ever attempt to build headers for these? i found a set of manifolds but only have an 1/8 inch on either side. just ordered flanges and 90 degree mandrel bends to try to build a set. if anyone has, any input would be appreciated

speaking from experience (not building them for pintos specifically).

be VERY patient. plan it out. really THINK about how those pipes will be routed. think about access for performing regular maintenance. think about ease of installation & removal.

WTR 70 · « **Reply #145 on:** January 23, 2012, 01:32:13 PM »

kinda thinking we are going to have to come out and curve up then go back, it is a bit tight if we go down out of the head haha, we will see!

lateniteauto · « **Reply #146 on:** January 24, 2012, 11:05:03 AM »

Ice Engine Works makes a kit to mock up headers. http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm I am currently waiting for my header flanges to show up so I can start mock up. I am impressed with how easy these things are to use. One thing I don't like about them, if you want to make a full length header, as the primary pipes start getting long, these plastic pieces don't support their own weight very well. IEW recommends using super glue... I have found a few pieces of electrical tape does the trick quite well and you can reuse them over and over. Check it out. I will post a pic of the 53 ford truck that we have started using them on. AWESOME. We purchased the cheaper starter kit, and found that it is only enough pieces to do one side at a time. Just my two cents.

v8junkie · « **Reply #147 on:** January 24, 2012, 03:42:06 PM »

That looks like an awesome tool for designing headers, thank you for sharing Late!

norcalfiddy · « **Reply #148 on:** January 25, 2012, 12:02:12 AM »

hello all! im picking up a 73 and i already have a complete 5.0 HO out of my wrecked 89 mustang, and my question is, will 74-79 v8 swap headers fit in a 73?? or would i have to make some?..

heres the headers i found: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-6161HKR/Application/?prefilter=0

jim72 · « **Reply #149 on:** January 25, 2012, 10:25:54 AM »

It's my understanding that '71-'73's have a narrower engine bay thus conversion parts for '74 and later are not compatable. I have an N.O.S. set of hooker headers for early chassis pintos that I bought back in 1983 . They have never been bolted up or fired through. They have no rust or dings in them AND THEY MIGHT BE FOR SALE depending on the power plant I will be putting in my latest project. If I have the engine bay thing wrong please correct me.

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Author Topic: 302 motor mounting (Read 12082 times)