Author Topic: My new Pinto, The Sequel (Read 11873 times)

Carolina Boy · « **on:** February 17, 2009, 09:09:03 PM »

Feb. 17, 2009
After the 80 wagon let down and the change of heart on the 76. The 1978 Hatch restore has started. Started the strip down of the 76 today. I pulled the interior front and back. The hatch was next and it came off soooo easy. I will need new hold up tubes (I don't know what they are called). I pulled out some dash parts that hadn't been trashed. Will need a radio bezel. Tomorrow I plan on getting the wheels (Fairmont 14s) and the rear end, springs and all.
I am also going to pull the front sheet work off and the bumpers, maybe the doors. I don't know how to take the stationary 1/4 glass out, but will try. After tomorrow I won't be able to play with the cars for about two weeks due to my sugery on Thursday morning. About the first week in March, check the classifieds for parts from my project that I didn't use.

Feb. 18, 2009
Woke up to cold weather and rain, will have to wait to strip till after sugery

blupinto · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2009, 09:27:16 PM »

Good luck with your surgery Carolina Boy. We're pullin' for you!

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2009, 09:35:15 PM »

Thanks for the support.

It will be a real pain in the neck :lol: I will return!! :drunk:

discolives78 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2009, 10:04:22 PM »

I have a few radio bezels laying around, they are suitable for different purposes. What kind of radio do you plan to put in it? Factory AM? 8 track? CD? I pull every one I see at the junkyard, and that's one part I've learned to keep on hand (It's my thing!) Let me know, and if I can't match you with one I have, I'll go hunting!

Chuck

blupinto · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2009, 10:07:26 PM »

:lol: quite literally! That's what they make pain meds for! You'll live to march another day, soldier!

discolives78 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2009, 10:16:37 PM »

p.s. Prayers for a speedy recovery Carolina Boy!

Chuck

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2009, 11:50:45 PM »

Thanks again for the prayers and support. Just so all will know, it is a cervical fuzion in two places to add to the earlier 3. I will end up with 5 Vertabrae fuzed together (3/4" shorter). :lol: The surgery is 9:30am Thursday with two nights in the hospital. I will be typing again Saturday night. :sleep:

I will take you up on that bezel, Discolives, don't matter about the color and I will be putting in just a stock AM radio. Mine is cut up, do you need it for anything? Just email me with a total$.

Thanks again guy and gals,
Carolina Boy

discolives78 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2009, 12:28:48 AM »

Send me a pic of the face of your radio and measurement of the square opening your radio will cover. How is your old one cut? for a cd deck? Maybe we can work out a trade.

I feel for you with back problems, my mom broke her hip when she was 12 and developed degenerative arthritis. At one point her back and hips had 3 metal rods. She underwent 6 surgeries before I graduated high school. When I was a kid she would be home in full body casts and other braces and such. She eventually had both hips replaced (one twice, long story).

Chuck

beegle55 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2009, 06:41:45 AM »

Good luck with the surgery and here is for a speedy recovery.

-beegle55

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2009, 01:23:04 PM »

Discolives,
Just sent you an email

blupinto · « **Reply #10 on:** February 18, 2009, 02:26:41 PM »

My Mom, who was a registered nurse all her career broke bones in her lower back in her early 20s. She lived with the pain for as long as she could til she had those affected vertebrae fused. Her only regret was not doing it sooner.

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #11 on:** March 05, 2009, 08:55:27 PM »

Well I got out if the house today.

Had to charge the body's batteries(and I was driving the other half nuts) :devil:. Buddy and I went and finished the 76 strip. :amazed: She gave up alot of thing :angel: that I have now put up for sell over in classifieds.

Sent discolives his rubber baby bumpers.

Came home and tinkered with the 78.

We Flushed the radiator and then changed the plugs, wires, battery, and oil.

It wouldn't start, nothing, OH NO!!

Attached the battery cables and She fired right up.

Blew the smoke out and heard a clank in the back

Muffler had fallen off, so that's why it was so loud! HMM :lol:
We threw Her in to gear and rode up and down the street. WHOOPPIE

She drove pretty good.
Went ahead and put Her back in the driveway and let Her rest. That was a lot for my first day so I went and took a nap. :sleep:

dga57 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 06, 2009, 12:29:27 AM »

Glad to hear you are out and about, my friend. Take care not to overdo it!
Dwayne :smile:

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #13 on:** March 07, 2009, 10:16:35 PM »

Spent a little time with the old girl today.

Sanded down the drivers fender nice and smooth and put it in primer.

Worked a bit on the hatch, decided to stick with the full glass. :look: Took the spoiler off the 76 hatch. I am going to use it on the 78.

Had to do some cutting and fitting. :amazed: I carved out a section to incorporate the handle. I'll have to do a bit of fiberglass magic.

Do have a question though, how do you drill a hole in glass?

It is for mounting the spoiler.

dga57 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 07, 2009, 10:55:19 PM »

Do have a question though, how do you drill a hole in glass?

It is for mounting the spoiler.

[/quote]

VERY CAREFULLY :lol: :lol: :lol:

Seriously, I'm sure they make bits for doing that but if it were mine, I'd be thinking 3M Automotive Adhesive Products. Much safer

!

Dwayne :smile:

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #15 on:** March 08, 2009, 11:07:35 AM »

Ya know that there is a good idea! Why make it harder than it needs to be. See, you maight have saved me a bunch of money. Going to take some pictures today for ducumentation of the project.

71HANTO · « **Reply #16 on:** March 08, 2009, 11:30:38 AM »

I agree..glue it. The auto glass is tempered and will crack if you try to drill it. I went through this with my 69 Mustang that has glue-in windows (factory). I wanted to put some bolts thru the glass to better hold them in the channel but is not possible once the glass is tempered. I could have changed everything $$$ to 1970 Mustang (has the bolted in factory upgrade) but I re-glued mine til' they go again. 71HANTO

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #17 on:** March 08, 2009, 08:31:38 PM »

Dually noted and understood. Which glue?

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #18 on:** March 08, 2009, 10:40:56 PM »

Had two setbacks today. Found that the headlight covers (door?) are coming apart. I will have to find some more later. I didn't know they were rubber till I tried to remove them. I wonder if the 76's would work? The fender are the same?
The 76 and the 78 had the same hoods, Right? The 78s hood is so rusted and pitted it needs changing. My buddy's coming over tomorrow to help pull the interior. I hope I don't find any holes.

blupinto · « **Reply #19 on:** March 08, 2009, 10:49:51 PM »

I'm thinking the light bezels and the hood were similar to the '71-'75 on the '76. The grille and front signal lights were different. The '77-'78 had round headlights but squarish bezels. Hmm... now I'll have to look...

dga57 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 08, 2009, 11:24:19 PM »

Quote from: Carolina Boy on March 08, 2009, 08:31:38 PM

Dually noted and understood. Which glue?

Robert,

In a case like that, I would check with an automotive specialty shop... one who supplies paint, adhesives, etc. to the body shops, and ask their recommendation .
My inexpert opinion is that something like JB Weld or any good epoxy would do the trick. Depending on the amount of surface contact you have, you may even be able to use automotive-grade double-sided tape. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

Dwayne :smile:

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #21 on:** March 16, 2009, 05:33:41 PM »

Rain rain and more rain. My out doors garage is cold and full of rain.

I haven't been able to touch the car. I have been doing some build book work though.

I want to take this time to thank Mike, Tony, and Phil for the new parts. Also, thanks go out to all the guys and girls for all the help, how to info, and some good laughs while I have been recouperating. I hope to return all the favors by building my car and showing it off to yall. I am here for yall anytime I can help!

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #22 on:** March 24, 2009, 07:06:35 PM »

As you know my car is a 78 hatchback with a 2.3 and 4 speed. The advice I need is, am I going the right way? $:-\$ I will be driving it daily. Go to shows and want to smoke a Ricer every now and then. I am not looking to build a 1/4 mile, 8 sec car :police: :lol:, just a simple fun show off car.

:devil:

This is what I'm sure about:
rebuilding the engine and DE-smogging.
Boring .030 over
shaving the head, w/ port and polish
I will use long under chassis headers (1-3/4" w/ 2-1/2 collector)
2-1/2" exhaust pipe to the side, in front of rear wheel
Offy 4 barrel manifold with 390 cfm Holley
MSD ignition and distributor
8" rear
14" wheels and tires (215/70/14)

Yalls advice from here?
Which rear gear ratio
Cam duration and lift
Fuzzy dice or cross

Yall know I value your opinions highly. Any help?

pintogirl · « **Reply #23 on:** March 24, 2009, 07:46:22 PM »

Well, the only advice I could give would be, fuzzy dice!!!! I think they are more period correct!!!!!!

pintosopher · « **Reply #24 on:** March 24, 2009, 07:53:55 PM »

Carolina Boy,
The cylinder head and Cam specs should have a common goal, increased flow for the type of powerband and driving style. If you do a bit of research on the heads the D style intake ports are the way to start a good head. Get a roller style cam for Longevity and RPM. Remember the valves have to flow better at Half lift twice in a rotation, and total lift doesn't always make for a drivable engine on the street. Lobe centers are important (108-110 degrees) Duration 288 degrees ,and the exhaust can really mess up the cam efficiency if it's too large.
Gears, 3:50 to 3:70
I'll give up the floor here..

Pintosopher

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #25 on:** March 24, 2009, 10:56:17 PM »

Pintogirl, Fuzzy dice it is :lol:

Pintosopher, This is why I ask questions. I get the lobe center and duration, I'm still at a loss on lift. Summit has a Comp Cam with close number as you suggested. Lobes at 110 degree, duration is advertised at 272 INT&EXH (226 at .050 lift, INT/EXH), 1500-5500 rpm. What do you think of this cam? (STOCK# 70-127-6)
Rear gear is noted.

Do you think I can squeeze at least 150 HP?

71HANTO · « **Reply #26 on:** March 24, 2009, 11:27:00 PM »

Quote from: Carolina Boy on March 24, 2009, 07:06:35 PM

As you know my car is a 78 hatchback with a 2.3 and 4 speed. The advice I need is, am I going the right way? $:-\$ I will be driving it daily. Go to shows and want to smoke a Ricer every now and then. I am not looking to build a 1/4 mile, 8 sec car :police: :lol:, just a simple fun show off car. :devil:
This is what I'm sure about: rebuilding the engine and DE-smogging.Boring .030 over
shaving the head, w/ port and polish I will use long under chassis headers (1-3/4" w/ 2-1/2 collector)2-1/2" exhaust pipe to the side, in front of rear wheel Offy 4 barrel manifold with 390 cfm Holley MSD ignition and distributor 8" rear 14" wheels and tires (215/70/14)
Yalls advice from here? Which rear gear ratio Cam duration and lift Fuzzy dice or cross
Yall know I value your opinions highly. Any help?

First off...I know nothing about 2.3s except the bump stick is on top. But the cam of any engine is the heart and in my opinion, ALWAYS the place to start. Everything gets built out from that...hopeful ly, all balanced to work together. THE biggest error people make is thinking if big is better, than BIGGEST IS BEST.....WRONG!! :amazed: BALANCE of the combination of parts and porting is the key. Based on your information above, I would focus on a cam profile that emphasizes TORQUE numbers. Torque is what accelerates the car. It is the measurement of the twist force to the drive shaft. The more twist force, the more burnt rubber and burnt ricers

Why do some people build 460 low RPM boat anchors?...MASSIVE TORQUE. Based on your tire choice (you might like 60 series better overall), I would go with the plentiful 3.40 rear gears and obligatory hanging High School (or college) Graduation Tassel

71HANTO

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #27 on:** March 29, 2009, 08:25:33 PM »

I have decided to name the car Bandit. That is the name of my bestest dog buddy I saved from the pound in 1992. He was my car dog. My 69 Fairlane Torino was named after him. No matter where he was, rattle the car keys and he was there at the door, ready to go. I lost him to pancreatic cancer in 2003 :angel:, and sold the car in 2004

. Okay, dry your eyes. I'll talk about the car, sorry Bandit.

Worked on the "Bandit" today. Switched out the hood, head light bezels, removed the front bumper. Sanded down the passenger fender and repaired the rear plastic whatsitcalled panels inside the hatch area. I am having lots of fun with wire wheels, sandpaper and primer.

Out of the blue, I had a guy come by today, said he'd like to buy my engine and trans. :surprised: Said he was a racer. I told him I wasn't interested but he left his number anyways. His offer was $500 or trade for his 1986 Mustang LX 302(V4)/T5 that has been rear ended and totaled. He said the engine runs and the trans is fine. I have had, going to a 302/T5 setup, on the back burner for "Bandit". I wonder if I should check this deal out? That sure would give Bandit more bark and bite! :lol:

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #28 on:** April 04, 2009, 08:18:26 PM »

Rust holes Pulled up the carpet today and found rust holes. They aren't big about 3/8" round is the biggest. I have heard about this POR-15, is it any good? Short of having to cut a floor board, how would yall fix the small holes. The floors are still pretty solid, my wire brush knocked the rust off and I see good metal.
I guess yall can tell I ain't a body man, but I'll try anything once.

Carolina Boy · « **Reply #29 on:** April 30, 2009, 08:22:20 PM »

Pulled the anti-pollution crap off today and plugged up the holes. The battery tray andfender underneath is rust free. Sanded and primed after removal of the tray.
I have got the front fenders and hood all the same color of primer after wet sanding for about 4 hours. Hope to start in on the doors tomorrow. They both have the typical rust holes in the bottom corners. May have to break down and get a mig and do some welding, don't like to use a lot of bondo.

Current Classifieds

Author Topic: My new Pinto, The Sequel (Read 11873 times)