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Yesterday at 08:01:55 PM
Elmo's pilot light has gone out. 
He worked hard today and has nothing left to give to anyone .......


Yesterday at 02:11:01 PM
He's got St. Elmo's Fire in his down "under" ;D


Yesterday at 12:00:57 PM
Naw... a little tickle and he'll be good to go! ;)


Yesterday at 08:03:52 AM
Elmo May need some Blue pills and latex :D


December 09, 2017, 11:25:01 PM
Looks like  Elmo may have a Merry Christmas after all!....



December 09, 2017, 01:14:20 PM
Yes, I'm Furry and make a great wax remover. Air dry me after washing or I'll shrink in all the wrong places ;D


December 09, 2017, 01:11:04 PM
Elmo has to keep the pimp daddy ride clean and shiny 8)
You go Grand Master "E"!



December 09, 2017, 10:28:18 AM


December 09, 2017, 09:31:52 AM
Inflation is not the answer unless you use the proper gear lube. G4 and never G5 is necessary. Always top off the lube before inflation.


December 09, 2017, 05:42:56 AM
Inflate the size of your your Paycheck, cut taxes on everyone. Then you can find where the vehicle of living can really go! ;D


December 08, 2017, 08:38:29 PM
.... there is always air ..
air shocks inflate keeping things where they are supposed to be! :D


December 08, 2017, 05:51:14 PM
Strut Rods keep the Horse on the right track, and poly bushings help with shock loads ;)


I need a 1976 hood
Date: 12/19/2016 06:02 pm
I need a 1976 hood
Date: 12/19/2016 06:02 pm
1977 ford pinto cruz wagon
Date: 12/10/2017 03:31 pm
Rally spoiler wanted
Date: 05/04/2017 01:32 pm
1974 Pinto Wagon

Date: 01/07/2017 04:03 pm
1971 Pinto

Date: 03/04/2017 11:28 pm
Need Clutch & Brake Pedal
Date: 12/23/2016 06:16 pm
Pinto sales literature / magazine ads/ owners manuals
Date: 03/21/2017 07:47 pm
vintage Pinto script sunshades

Date: 03/05/2017 03:27 pm
77 Cruising Wagon Front Seats
Date: 04/12/2017 12:37 pm
1971 Pinto instrument cluster clear bezel WTB
Date: 03/16/2017 10:00 pm
Date: 12/20/2016 10:52 am

Recent Posts

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Hi all..

Well my rebuilt block is complete except for the crankshaft thrust bearings.

The local rebuilder has sourced the main and rod bearings but has not been able to source the thrust bearings.

Ive checked online and there seem to be several sources advertising them but they are advertised to fit 1.6, 2.0 and 2.3 engines.

Does anyone know if there is interchangeabi lity and or of a source. I saw that the turbosport folks seem to have them but Im not sure of the shpping costs or time frame.
Your Pintos/Bobcats & Racers / Re: RACE CARS
« Last post by dick1172762 on Yesterday at 10:06:31 AM »
Used to get the Wheel before the editor split and started North American Pylon. Both papers were more full of autocross then anything else. Was a great time for all. The California region would hick #@$ every year at the autocross nationals in the 70's and 80's. That Escort built by Komush and Wolf was the car to beat on the west. Memory's is all we have now. Looks like Joe is our last hope to get a Pinto dicing it out with the cones.
Your Pintos/Bobcats & Racers / Re: RACE CARS
« Last post by pintosopher on Yesterday at 08:02:12 AM »
Comptech! Where have I heard that name before? I remember now. Pintosopher worked there! That Escort kicked butt every where it raced. Every time a new copy of North American Pylon came out there would be story's about it in the late 90's and early 2000's. Very fast and rare car. Thanks Joe for the great picture. It's now in my collection of great cars.
 When I first saw this car in the Tech inspection line at a Solo event, I was blown away. The radiator was in the trunk, the Solid rear axle was suspended with a watts link , 4 link, and "Rocker arm" Coil over shocks dead center, and the Car had a Twin cam 1.6. After the car was disqualified at the nationals under an obscure ruling about whether it was ever sold in the U.S. with the Twin cam, the Builders Dwayne Komush, and Howard Wolf built a 1.6 pushrod motor that was just as strong. The winning ways continued and I'm not sure who owns it now. Howard Wolf was a Long time employee of Comptech and a nice guy to work with. Dwayne was a Aerospace employee from Lockheed ( If I remember OK).  A first rate build and smart drivers. 8)
Pinto FAQ / Re: FAQ: Rear End Ratios
« Last post by Wittsend on December 09, 2017, 09:14:57 PM »
No, the code as far as I know is not in the VIN. You have to look at the tag on the axle..., and as Dick stated it still might not be that ratio - but hopefully is.

As far as the tag in the image it was not cleaned sufficiently. The area I circled in red is the ".18", and the dirty area in blue I circled is likely where the "3" is.  As for your own car you will have to crawl under and clean/read the tag (safely secure the car before doing so). I've included a 3.00 tag as an example of the how far the "3" number is close to the bolt hole.

 There is a mean by which one can rotate the tire and count the driveshaft rotations but in an "open" rear end the true count is double the drive shaft rotations and subject to misreading. If for some reason the tag is missing you will need to do that as a way of getting "close."

FWIW if I was choosing a rear ratio and my choices were factory only it would be either the 3.18 or the 3.40. Most likely 3.18 if I was using 13" tires and a fair amount of highway driving and 3.40 if I was using larger tires and perhaps inclined more to city driving.
Pinto FAQ / Re: FAQ: Rear End Ratios
« Last post by Crazy Lacy on December 09, 2017, 07:47:52 PM »
Is the Ratio in the VIN # ?
General Pinto Talk / Re: Alaskan Adventure !
« Last post by flash041 on December 09, 2017, 05:37:21 PM »
Dick, at this time we plan too.Also looking into buying ,or building,a light weight hard-sided  camper under 1,000 lbs

  To view the entire trip with Pics use this link https://wiscollectorcar.com/forum/topic/alaska-pinto-adventure/
General Help- Ask the Experts... / Carburetor orientation on 4 barrel manifold
« Last post by Spartan6 on December 09, 2017, 05:33:04 PM »
Alright, we finally found the coveted offy 6114dp intake, and have procured a 4bbl carburetor that should be small enough to not overload our race motor, but also give us more wallop than the 2bbl on the ranger efi manifold.

My question is, the 2 barrel had the float bowl facing forward, and as this is a road race car,  that made sense, the 4 barrel looks like it needs to go on with the bowls pointed 90 degrees different,  does anyone know if we can put it on front to back, or will that screw with the dual plane setup? I just worry about one metering block or the other starving, depending on which direction we're turning.

General Help- Ask the Experts... / Re: Wiper motor
« Last post by Wittsend on December 09, 2017, 03:32:31 PM »
Usually they have a worn gear drive so, "No" it most likely wouldn't turn.  Often times the grease in the gear box can harden to the point that the motor won't turn, or if left on long enough burn up the motor. Electrical contacts can get corroded too. Did you check the fuse?

1. Check the fuse.

2A. Put a volt meter on the connector. You can just run it to chassis ground on the - side. Turn on the wiper at each position and then look for voltage on each connection point. You should only find voltage at one point per switch position (other than off*). The one where you find no voltage after going through each position is likely ground.  *You may find one wire that has voltage all the time as something like that is needed to get the wipers back to the "park" position.

2B.  You can set a voltmeter to Ohms and check for continuity on the motor. Unfortunately I have no idea what to expect to read at any given connector. So, it can be a bit of guessing what thereadings mean. Maybe others are more versed on that.

3. Assuming you have voltage at the connector you might want to open the gearbox case and look at the condition of the grease. There are often wipe tracks of copper on a circular board and any corrosion, hardened grease etc. can disrupt electrical contact.

So, that should get you started.
General Help- Ask the Experts... / Wiper motor
« Last post by Jdm071755 on December 09, 2017, 02:45:29 PM »
Wipers donít work. Pulled the motor out I tried to turn it by hand boy it doesnít budge. Should it spin freely by hand?

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