Engines that will fit.  289  302  351w  351c  429   460  This writeup is meant as an overview for the '74-'80 models, i have not done a '71-'73 conversion so i'm not real sure what will work in those.

I'm sure you can get any engine to fit, given the time and enough money, but these are the most common ones. This article deals with the Windsor family of engines 289-302-351w  The Clevland and 385 series of engines (429-460) have even less parts available for the swap and in MY opinion require a great deal of custom fabrication and reconstruction ....especially with the 429-460 engines.   



It's maybe about time i did this thread. I get a good number of emails, and private messages about my set up, what i used and how to do it. This thread will take me a day or three to complete so bear with me and i will finish it as i have the time, along with a how to on EFI conversion for a V8. The parts i used are just that....it does not mean you can't substitute for something along the way ....if it works...do it!  First off, a V8 powered Pinto is not meant to be a corner carver! It will not handle like its on rails....and would be suited for straight line acceleration (drag racing) and regular street cruising, so think about what you want your Pinto to do before you take the plunge.

Motor mounts- i used part number left-D7ZA-6B032-AA
                                                right-D72A-6038-AA

 They are from a '77 Mustang II 302, and they are pricey if you can find them at all. You also need the frame mounts from the Mustang II  OR you can use the Pinto 4 banger ones and modify the left one by relocating it back 1 full inch from centre of hole to centre.  A motor plate or engine plate can be used, however, they have no rubber mounts and will let the engine vibrations transmit through the car.

 

The trans crossmember, in the picture, you are looking at the front. The holes will need some modifying to fit, also you'll likely have to turn the rubber isolator 180 degrees to fit (part that actually attaches trans crossmember to the tranny) If your conversion is using a T5 tranny it should also work with this setup. The AOD overdrive tranny is close to the same length as the C4 (there are different length tailstocks made on both, for trucks, vans ect.) but the car trannies were about the same length, BUT....the mounting pad is located about 2 inches further back on the AOD and WILL reqiure some fabrication on the crossmember. The smaller Mustang II V8 C4 bellhousing (147 tooth flex plate) will fit in the trans tunnel with little to no modifications. The larger 157 tooth bellhousing will fit but it will require the trans tunnel/ firewall to be pounded with a BFH. The even larger (Van, truck, large car) 164 tooth bellhousing will reqiure MAJOR trans tunnel/firewall reconstruction .....don't bother using it as its a PITA. The AOD is also a 164 tooth flexplate but is fairly simular to the bell size of the 157 tooth and will need to have the tunnel/firewall recalibrated a bit more   The C5 tranny is basically the same as a C4 but the bellhousing is longer to make room for the lock up torque convertor (i'm using a built C5 but with a C4 bellhousing and C4 convertor) and will throw off mounting location on the trans crossmember. The C6 for a smallblock requires WAY to much fabrication, they are also very heavy. I would steer clear of them completely.

Radiator.  Many different rads can be used, my rad is a custom made two row aluminum that is a copy of a Mustang II unit and i added more length to it (i cut the lower support out so it extends down about 3 inches more than the original rad) I AM A FIRM BELIEVER THAT THE FACTORY UPPER RAD SUPPORT SHOULD BE LEFT INTACT.  Sure it's a pain in the a$$ to put the engine in and take it out.....you have to make the engine and tranny verticle to get it in, but its worth the effort to keep the fenders and front end in general from moving around while driving and at idle. Tom's '71 has had the upper rad support cut (he didn't do it) and with it bolted together, it still has alot of front end movement....es pecially while at idle. With that said, it will have to be a trial and error on rad choice, take measurements and head to the wreckers to see if you can find something  (i'm sure others will post a suitable rad to use when i unlock this thread) The factory Pinto rad will not do the job.....don't even bother trying it! There will be very little room between the waterpump snout and the rad (if you took my advice on NOT cutting the factory core support) so electric fan (s) are needed. I mounted mine on the outside of the rad and wired it to be a pusher. (pushes air through the rad instead of pulling it through from the inside) I also had to modify the hood latch brakets to make the fan fit between it and the rad. I am going to use front hood pins now, so i can take the hood latch and most of the bracket out.

Headers.  This is a hot topic (no pun intended ) it seems when doing a conversion. Hooker makes headers for a 302 and 351w and i believe also a 351c into a Pinto, along witha few others (hedman ect.) Sometimes they can be found on ebay used. These swap headers can be pricey....so be warned.  Factory Mustang II V8 exhaust manifolds will also work, but are rather hard to come buy (try ebay again) My headers are Hooker Super Comps, they are a pain in the a$$ big time, they have many slip fittings on them to get them in and out more easily, but you need a couple of extra hands to hold them in place as you assemble them. Tom and i came up with a cheap alternative for headers for his car, as the price for headers was too much for him.  Take a set of factory or aftermarket 5 liter Mustang shorty headers, switch what side they are suppost to be mounted on and face them exiting out the FRONT. Then have a locall exhaust shop run them around the crossmember and to the back of the car, you cannot have a lowered ride hieght, but they do work and they are cheap! For a 302, no modifications are needed, with a 351w the frame rails may need to be notched for clearance near the collectors.

other side

Chassis.  My car has frame connectors added to it to give it some stiffness and to help reduce body twist with the slicks down at the dragstrip. I would suggest that you add them to your car also....even if your running a turbocharged 2.3!  They can be made from roundstock or square tube and should be attached to the front framerails and made long enough to attach to some point on the rear frame....or like mine are, attached around the front rear spring perch mount, weld them in. This is how they are attached in my Pinto. This is the front frame rail on the right hand side.

Here is the nine inch rear, you can see the rear of the traction bars mounted to the axle. At the front of the driveshaft, you can see the safety loop....always a good idea when using slicks....i don't want to compete in a pole vault at the dragstrip! The tub behind the axle contains the fuel cell, and my high pressure fuel pump (for EFI) and filter are mounted to the outside of it. Next year the rear suspension will be changed to a ladderbar/coilover setup, eliminating the leaf springs completely.

Nice writeup. Definately one of those threads to remember! 

I just bought another Pinto, I own the $50.00 Pinto in the forums (Maroon with starsky and hutch stripe)
My delema
I acquired a 1988 Thunderbird with a fuel injected 5.0 and AOD tranny. What do I need to salvage from the donor car for the electronic ignition and is this swap doable. Will the AOD work in my pinto

Total cost of both cars $100.00(just for the pinto)

hopefully the pictures stay attached this time!

good work, thats what hot rodding is all about!

I own the "My $50.00 Pinto" and am contemplating installing a V8. The donor Car is a 1988 Ford Thunderbird with a 5.0
Not sure about the tranny but i do know it has OD. My question to you is can i basically swap the motor. with the exception of oil pan & Pickup and Motor Mounts Changes into the car with little or no trouble..
Parts from donor i know i need are:
EEC (Computer), and wire loom I have two style of pinto's

I need to get the Thunderbird Body out of here along with (Maybe) 1981 Ford pinto (Uknown type)Just a shell.

Bump

This will make my 347 swap into my 1980 wagon a whole easier. It's nice to see pics of the finished product, plus the info is a bonus!!  Thanks