Pinto Car Club of America

Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => Pinto FAQ => Topic started by: dick1172762 on December 24, 2016, 10:39:00 AM

Title: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 24, 2016, 10:39:00 AM
For all you do it yourselfer's here are the sites I use every day. (mustang II.net for 2300 and brakes etc)(ratsun.net for some of the best tech tips by posters I've found plus great pictures of cars/trucks/planes/bikes)(mustang II tech.net for 2300 and brakes etc)(4m.net for 2300 listed under mini stock) All of these are great site with great tech tip and interesting story's at times. The ratsun site while for Datsun's is one of the best site's I've ever found with 3 pages of new post everyday of the week. Ford Pinto nos on E-gay is great for new old Pinto parts. Please note that there is no guarantee that any or all of these tech tips will work . These tech tip are only posted here to tell you what I have done in the past.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 28, 2016, 12:24:15 PM
Want more power out of your Pinto at the cost of using more gas? Then take your Holley/Weber 5200 carb apart and do this simple mod. Remove the jets and look at the size on each one. An example would be 50 on the primary and 55 on the secondary. Now put the 55 jet where the 50 was (primary) and drill the 50 jet till it is 5 larger than the primary jet. Again as an example you will now have a 55 in the primary and a 60 in the secondary. It'll use more gas but will run so much better. Also try advance the timing some to help out the way it runs. Even an extra 2 deg will help. All for now.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 28, 2016, 12:40:23 PM
Want more top end power out of your Pinto? The Holley/Weber carb has a poor air cleaner in that the lid is to close to the carb. Simple fix is to add 2 or 3 gaskets to the top of the carb which will move the air cleaner up ward. You'll know when you've moved too much cause the air cleaner will rub on the under side of the hood. You will need to install longer bolt in the carb that pass through the air cleaner to hold the air cleaner down. Easy fix with more top end power. BTW the gaskets are on E-gay every day and cheap too.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: Wittsend on December 28, 2016, 01:56:25 PM
I love these simple but effective tips.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 28, 2016, 03:58:23 PM
Most of the 2300 tips I know of were used by me on my 80 Pinto IT-B SCCA race car from 1984 to 1990. The good ole days.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 28, 2016, 04:13:07 PM
Think you need more fuel pressure for your Pinto. If so get yourself a very early Ranger 2300 fuel pump for a 2300 carb'd engine. Its made upside down so its easy to tell if you have the right one. You'll have to remove that heavy fuel pump roll cage but you should anyway. The Ranger pump will pump plenty of fuel for even a race Pinto.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 28, 2016, 04:29:54 PM
Want to get rid of that large piece of junk iron called a "master cylinder". You know, the one that leaks and rust no matter what you paint it with. Well then go down to your parts store and get an 1986 Ranger 2300 with disk brakes WITH OUT POWER BRAKES master cylinder. Its part number MC39568 at O'nearly. I think it was only one year. You may need to shorten the rod that plugs into it. If so there are adjustable rods on E-gay. I made my own so its not hard at all. It'll make your Pinto look like its not only faster but shinny. BTW if it comes without the rod, they've sold you the wrong one. Make sure its a 15/16 size piston.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: 74 PintoWagon on December 29, 2016, 06:56:58 AM
Some good tips there..
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 29, 2016, 01:55:43 PM
Got a Pinto or any kind of low horsepower car with air condition? You know, when you turn the air on you lose 1/2 your power. Going up a hill is a real chore. Easy fix. Just install a vacuum switch on the air compressor that cut off the compressor when the engine produces little or no vacuum, like going up a hill. These switch's can be bought at large part stores like NAPA , Speedway Racing or a large auto air condition shop. You could also cut out the alternator at the same time with the same switch.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 29, 2016, 02:16:35 PM
Ever been on a trip and have your radiator start leaking? Easy fix will get you home. Remove the radiator cap after its cooled down and remove the small rubber gasket. Not the large one. You may have to add water along the way, but now you'll have a drip in place of a pressure stream. It all depends on the size of the hole. This will not work if someone shoots a 357 through your radiator.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 29, 2016, 02:42:54 PM
Want a little better mileage or power? Get rid of the heated intake manifold. This will only work if both heater hoses go to the front of the motor. Remove the intake and gasket and make a plate out of a coke can to block the square hole in the center of the manifold. The hole is about 3/4" square. Place the plate next to the manifold not the head. I use double side tape to hold it in place but glue will work too. Now reinstall the gasket and manifold. Check for leaks and your done. Do not try this if you live and drive in very cold country. You may have to move your temp gage sender to a different location. (there's several) Smog hoses are up to you if you want to de smog your car. Pinto were built in the very early day of smog control and are excessive to say the least.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 29, 2016, 03:21:40 PM
Go to http://www.community.ratsun.net/ (http://www.community.ratsun.net/) and look at car porn (its not x rated just pictures of really great cars)There is 474 pages of pictures. They also have planes trucks bikes porn. Also look under "view new contents". Great site and pictures are second to none. No Pintos BUT they allow any brand so someone here needs to post Picture of Pintos. Go to page 472 to see the most perfect interior in a car ever.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 29, 2016, 04:01:28 PM
Say your going to put a header on your 2300 Pinto and your going to use 3" pipe all the way to the rear bumper. No way unless your going to the salt flats. Exhaust is very big part of how your Pinto runs on the street. Most headers except Speedway have a 21/2" dia collector. A 21/2" pipe all the way would be just right if your Pinto is a full race engine car. A stock Pinto on the street needs no more than 2" to really run good. 21/4" if its got a cam and duel Webers. Bigger is not BETTER. Stock is only 13/4" so 2" is plenty if your car is stock. No fart can too. A turbo or glasspack is all you need unless you want to sound like a sport bike at 12000 rpm. Just remember that your Pinto will not be run to red line each and every day.(not for long anyway). Best header? Hedman two piece header is great and fits ole so good. Hard to find but still out there. Stay away from Pacemaker as there way over priced. Factory Ranger and Mustang are ok.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 29, 2016, 05:11:37 PM
If you drive your Pinto really HARD you need a better oil filter than stock. On my race cars I use a Chevrolet filter(327-350) with a Moroso adapter. If you doin't have a remote filter use a 69 Datsun 510 filter which screws right on as stock. I use Wix filters 100% and both have no by pass so all of the oil pass's thru the filter. Be careful not to over rev the engine when cold or you could blow the filter off the motor. I've been using this setup for the past 40 years with no problems. Oil? I've used it all with no problem. I've even used Wall Mart oil with no problem at all. Just keep it clean and changed often. STP? I've used it for 40 years too with no problems in hi mileage motors. Weight? 5/30 in newer cars and 10/40 in my Pintos. 20/50 oil is only good for a 500 mile race. Go to BOB IS THE OIL GUY to read up on oil. I would not ever use a dayglow orange FRAM filter on any car. Just what I think.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 30, 2016, 10:02:14 AM
You say oil is getting into your brake drums after a long drive? Easy fix. Of course change the seals at the backing plates and then remove the breather fitting on the top side of the axel tube. It's the one with a hose going up into the frame of the car. Take the fitting and drill the hole that goes thru it to 1/8"(.125) dia. The fitting has a very small hole from the factory and plugs up easy to cause pressure to build up in the rear end housing and cause the leaks. See I told you it was easy.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 30, 2016, 10:13:18 AM
Do you have a problem with rust in both the radiator and the engine block? Easy fix. Use water soluble oil in the radiator and it'll stay nice and clean. I get mine from a machine shop near me but you can buy it from your local oil dealer. Machine shop is best cause you don't need much. Pint is plenty.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 30, 2016, 10:27:39 AM
Have a problem getting all the air out of your cooling system when you change coolant. Just take the thermostat and drill a .040/.050 dia hole in the flat part of the thermostat that's not covered up by the gasket. That's all to bleed the air off. Makes you wonder why the people that make them don't do it for you.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 30, 2016, 12:05:25 PM
Ever wonder why your heater doesn't work as good as it did when new. Well if you've got the model Pinto that has one heater hose going to the intake manifold that's where the problem is located. Take the cover that has the various fittings off the manifold. Its the only thing you can remove. Most of the time it will be full of rust that's pluging up your heater hose fitting. No flow / no heat. Clean it out. Be forwarned that there's coolant in there. Not much but some. New gaskets are on E-gay all the time. Back flushing the heater will brake loose the rust in the heater core sometimes.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 30, 2016, 12:59:36 PM
Want to know how to get electronic ignition for your 2.0L Pinto with junk yard parts? Then go to google /Capri club of Chicago/tip and tricks/tip for drive train/electronic ignition for 2000L. One of the very best mod for a 2.0L Pinto bar none. Has a good article on changing the cam belt in 20 min or so they say too.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: Scott Hamilton on December 30, 2016, 04:57:12 PM
Dick,
This is great!! More- More- More...

:D
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: chrisf1219 on December 31, 2016, 03:47:17 AM
great stuff thank you dick
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 31, 2016, 10:02:03 AM
Want to know more about a 2300 engine than anybody should ever use? Then go to http://www.4m.net/archive/index.php/f-24.html (http://www.4m.net/archive/index.php/f-24.html)  and read up on ever thing in the world that could go wrong or right with a 2300. If its not on here you don't need to know. Its VERY long too. Curl up by the fire and read your heart out.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 31, 2016, 10:13:44 AM
Need casting numbers for Ford part?(no Pinto parts) Go to http://www.mustangtek.com/index.html (http://www.mustangtek.com/index.html)  Lots of good stuff on here. Some part numbers too along with pictures.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 31, 2016, 10:22:28 AM
Need to know more about the electrical parts on your Pinto or family car then go to http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml (http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml) These guys are sharp to say the least.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 31, 2016, 10:41:01 AM
Want to get rid of all that monkey motion in your shifter? go to http://www.merkurmidwest.com/catalog/c7_p2.html (http://www.merkurmidwest.com/catalog/c7_p2.html) Then go to the second page of the tranie parts and at the bottom you'll see the shifter bushing for your FOG tranie. Ad says it for a T9 but that's a FOG with 5th gear added on. Part is $17.65 plus postage I'm sure. Only place in the US of A that has the bushing that I know of.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 31, 2016, 10:59:34 AM
Need to know how big your rear end is? Well take you computer into the bathroom, lock the door, and now you'll know just how big it is. Go to http://www.carnut.com/specs/rear.html (http://www.carnut.com/specs/rear.html) You don't need to tell the wife if its really big.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 31, 2016, 11:16:15 AM
Want to put a 3 G alternator on you 2300 Pinto? Then go to http://www.rothfam.com/svo/3g (http://www.rothfam.com/svo/3g) and you'll see how easy it is. If you want to move it to the pass side of the engine get a Merkur air condition mount. Easy mod and allows you to reach the disturber with out removeing the alternator. Go to  http://www.merkurdepot.com for pictures  Look at the thread in the writing at the top of the page.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 31, 2016, 11:25:33 AM
Want better bright headlites for your Pinto? Then go to  http://www.midlife66.com/wiring/halrelays.html (http://www.midlife66.com/wiring/halrelays.html) and see how easy it is.  Will not work on a Vega. Will only work on a car that runs.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 31, 2016, 11:53:34 AM
Want tilt steering in your Pinto? Easy fix. Go to http://www.mustangiitech.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&ltemid=132  then go to modification, then suspension steering, then tilt. That's it and if your rear end is too wide, tilt steering will help.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on December 31, 2016, 12:11:19 PM
Want better ignition for your Pinto. Then HEI from GM, the Vega people. Go to  http://www.junkyardgenius.com/ignition/jeep/HEI01.html to see how easy it is. Why do this? Better hot spark and really easy to carry a spair. A HEI will rev to 6000+ on a V8 but that's 12000+ on a 4 banger.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: Reeves1 on December 31, 2016, 12:26:12 PM
You say oil is getting into your brake drums after a long drive? Easy fix. Of course change the seals at the backing plates and then remove the breather fitting on the top side of the axel tube. It's the one with a hose going up into the frame of the car. Take the fitting and drill the hole that goes thru it to 1/8"(.125) dia. The fitting has a very small hole from the factory and plugs up easy to cause pressure to build up in the rear end housing and cause the leaks. See I told you it was easy.

Another thing that I've seen happen lots (up here) are the Wasps that put a clay plug in the breather hose, a dead bug and an egg. Another clay seal, bug & egg etc etc till the end of the hose.
I've used 125 lbs of air pressure & it will not blow out.
If plugged like this, replace with a new hose & put a breather on the top end of the hose (they are made for this application) to prevent this.
What causes the leak is a build up of pressure inside the diff.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 01, 2017, 09:32:27 AM
The plastic boots that prevent any thing passing into the cowl at the hood hinges are not one of Fords better ideas. By now their full of holes and worthless. They are no longer made by anybody. Easy fix. Remove them from the car and get yourself some black performix plasti dip for dipping tool handles. Get the spray type as it works MUCH better. If your boots are torn use some duct tape on the outside to put it back together the best you can. Now spray the inside with the plasti dip several coats will be enough. After it dry's remove the duct tape and spray the outside. When it all dry's replace in the car. They will be good as new and will look like new. I get the dip off of E-gay BTW.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 01, 2017, 11:29:08 AM
Want to know how much your head/heads CC changed when you had them milled?  go to http://www.4m.net/showthread.php?352425-conversion-chart  As you all ready know, you can safely mill a 2300 head up aprox .130 but only on a full race engine. Racer Walsh says that for every .040 milled off the head you gain one compression ratio. Example would be from 9 / 1 to 10/1 if you milled .040 off the head.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 01, 2017, 11:35:34 AM
Want to know all about oil filters? This is somewhat dated but still good reading. Go to http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/opinions.html and you'll see why to stay away from Fram orange cheap filters. Just not worth the risk when you can buy good filters.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 01, 2017, 12:17:04 PM
Need parts for your stock Pinto FOG 4 speed transmission? Go to http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kit/ford_fog_rwd.html  They have it all.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 01, 2017, 12:42:51 PM
Need a good source for 2300 parts? Then go to http://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/index.php  Don't buy any heads as they all look like their all cracked.(TURBO)
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 01, 2017, 01:46:05 PM
Got a dent in your header/headers? Well its not as bad as you think.   Go to  http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?40.3172838  Then do a search at the top of the page. Then ask for squashing headers. Then your there and stop worrying about your header/headers.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 01, 2017, 05:02:38 PM
More 2300 stuff. Its for a turbo but its all the same. Go to http://www.merkurencyclopedia.com  The tech has a really good thread on engine seals. Worth reading by all with a 2300 engine.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 01, 2017, 05:16:12 PM
Want to know more about oil than your in laws? Its easy. Just read the following.  http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101 This is the most used site in the world for tech on oil. Also take a look at  http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/oils1.html
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 02, 2017, 10:19:45 AM
Need to know how big(cfm) motorcraft carbs are. These carbs make a word of difference on a 2300 and will bolt right on the stock intake once the 5200 holley/weber adapter is removed. Go to http://www.4m.net/archive/index.php/t-194341.html Works better than a holley two barrel carb because vibration doesn't bother them.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 02, 2017, 02:38:40 PM
Say you need the firewall grommets for the heater hose's. Well these are listed for a 69/70 Mustang but they work just fine. Have them in my 80 Pinto. There at  http://www.cal-mustang.com/product/mustang-heater-hose-firewall-grommet-1969-70. This grommet is for the large hose(3/4") like on a 79/80 Pinto. Your on your own for the small hose on the early Pintos.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 02, 2017, 02:54:11 PM
If your a movie nut like me, go to  http://www.nytimes.com/reviews/movies  There must be 50 or more movies reviewed on here. There might be a Pinto movie in the list.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 03, 2017, 09:28:59 AM
Need new springs or hardware? Then go to  http://www.springsnthings.com/leaf-spring-hardware.html  to see it all.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 03, 2017, 10:42:48 AM
Say you bought a really high $$$$ muffler for your "wiss bang 1200" and now its getting louder every day. Got a mig welder? Well then cut it open (on top so it will not show). Then remove what packing is left and replace it with "lava rock" from the local BIG hardware store. Lava rock will outlive you and your car. Weld up the hole and replace the muffler. This is a trick I used when I raced RX-7's. Muffler will never get louder and will work on almost any muffler.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 03, 2017, 06:07:30 PM
Pintos color codes are here   http://www.paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?manuf=ford&model=pinto&con=mod&page=3&rows=50&size=large
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 04, 2017, 09:33:40 AM
Need a good vendor for nuts, bolts,and hardware?  Take a look at  http://www.boltdepot.com/Default.aspx  These people have it all.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 04, 2017, 09:49:14 AM
Need a very good vendor for T-5 info? Try  http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm  Much history here too.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 04, 2017, 10:48:23 AM
Ever wanted to get your ignition timing JUST right? Try doing what I've done for the last 60 years. Advance your timing 2 degs and drive your car. Go up a hill in high gear and listen to your engine. If you hear a pinging sound you've advanced it too far and you need to retard it some. If it doesn't ping you need to advance it some more. Keep doing this till it pings. Then retard it a couple degs. Now it should run much better. The reason for all this? Well the marks on the balancer are not allways in the right location so by using a timing light your timing it wrong. Always check for the ping while going up a hill in high gear. And try to use the same station for your gas. If in the future you hear that pinging sound check your timing asap. Could be bad gas too.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 04, 2017, 04:22:12 PM
Want a really good source for go-fast Pinto parts? Then go to  http://www.powerbyace.com/  Their tech page is second to none. They even sell Vega parts. Good people.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 04, 2017, 05:26:47 PM
Need parts for your 2.0L engine in your Pinto? Go to   http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=HARDNUTSERT  and look at page 68 of their catalog. Don't know how much they have but its in their catalog.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 05, 2017, 12:52:07 PM

Wheel bolt patterns and much more is found here,  http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/garage-shop-reference.asp#axzz4uj-1075l
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 05, 2017, 04:11:59 PM
Want more power in your street driven Pinto? Try advancing the cam shaft 4 to 6 deg. This can be done two ways. Speedway sells an upper pulley that bolts onto the cam. This pulley has 6(I think) keyway slots to advance or retard the cam. Its well marked so you will not have a problem installing it. The other way is with an adjustable pulley from Racer Walsh/Esslinger. Does the same thing as the Speedway pulley, just takes more time and $$. Make sure you place the bolt that holds the pulley on this way and no other way. You must wrap it with teflond (spelling?)tape this way. Start 3 threads back from the end of the bolt and wrap it with 3 layers of the tape. You must do it this way to prevent the engine oil from leaking out around the bolt. Now go enjoy your power. Don't worry about the valves hitting the pistons as a 2300 is a non interference engine which means their not going to hit.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: robertwwithee on January 06, 2017, 11:41:57 AM
Cam belt in 20 min on a 2.0.  I belive it as I did one on the side of the road not much longer.  Antiseize on crank pulley does wonders.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 08, 2017, 05:32:10 PM
Need a cheap steering rack for your Pinto. Junk yards are out because there are VERY few Pintos out there. But all is not lost. Get one out of a fox body Mustang and use off set bushing. The bushings are only $18 on E-gay today.(off set bushing for a steering rack). I have not done this mod but I have seen pictures of the switch. Cutting of your Pinto is not necessary and you will end up with a better rack due to the tech being 10 or so years newer.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 08, 2017, 05:58:58 PM
Want a faster steering for your autocross Pinto? Two ways to go here. Get a steering quicker in 11/2 or 2 times less turns for about $150 or less. Either will require power steering unless you pump iron ever day. The other is to use a power steering rack with out the power. Easy to do as the power steering rack works fine with out power. Just use a small length of hose at the rack to hook the two fittings together. Make sure you put some atf in the rack before you hook them together with the hose. I've done this both ways and it help on a tight course. Try it/you'll like it. The best way is with the steering quicker but power steering is a must. The power steering pump required 50 weight oil to get a good feel of the steering wheel. Does take some time to get used to it.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 13, 2017, 09:55:17 AM
Need a filter for your hot rod Pinto? Then go to  http://www.wixfilters.com/Speciality/racing.aspx  The racing filters are on E-gay every day.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 13, 2017, 02:41:27 PM
Want a better running Ford with an 8 plug head? Just switch the plug wires on the intake side of the head. Switch 1 and 4 then 2 and 3. Switch them at the spark plugs or at the coils. Makes no difference and now you'll have all 8 plugs fireing at the same time. May take a day or two for the computer to catch up and smooth out.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 14, 2017, 11:13:04 AM
If your like me, you would like an easy way to change out your transmission without busting a gut in the process. Get yourself a couple 4" long metric bolts the right size for the bell housing bolts. Cut the head off the bolts/grind the end of the bolt round/then saw a screw driver slot into the round end/screw the bolts into the upper most bell housing bolt holes in the block/now remove or replace the tranie by sliding the bell housing over the two bolts/replace all of the bell housing bolts/remove the two 4" bolts and your done.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 15, 2017, 04:16:45 PM
Check out what Flowmaster has to say about exhaust tubing size   http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/recommended-exhaust-tubing-sizes.asp#axzz4vgpnoiwy    Bigger is not necessarily better.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 15, 2017, 05:03:35 PM
Need brackets for building your new hot rod Pinto? Coil overs? 4 links? Motor mounts? This guy has some of the best.   http://www.welderseries.com   Talk to Paul Horton.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 16, 2017, 09:45:59 AM
If your like me and the "pintosopher" and have Weber DCOE carbs on your Pinto, you'll really like this post.   http://www.classicrallyclub.com.au/docs/Tips_tuning_Weber_carburettors_DVAndrews.pdf
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 17, 2017, 10:38:02 AM
Beware of the 2" drop spindles for Pintos and Mustang II. While they do lower your car while keeping the ride the same, the lower ball joint will almost touch the ground with 13" (stock dia) wheels. Better way to lower your Pinto is by cutting the coil springs 1/3 to 1/2 coils off the bottom of the spring. Then you can still use 13" wheels and ride ok. Newer springs will require more removed but don't get carried away and cut too much. I've used a cut off wheel and a cutting torch. Both work ok with the torch easyer and faster. How ever you do it make sure you get it re-aligned. Your on your own at the rear as Racer Walsh no longer sells the 1" lowering blocks. Not to hard to make and Speedway sell some too.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 18, 2017, 11:36:37 AM
If you have de-smoged your Pinto and would like a better looking air cleaner try this mod. Remove all the material on the air cleaner that is outside the diameter of the filter itself. Easy to do with tin snips. On the aluminum air cleaners there is a line marked/stamped in the aluminum to show you where to cut. When your finished you will a much better looking and filtering air cleaner. It'll look like a hot rod and clean up the under hood clutter.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 19, 2017, 09:02:37 AM
When your wondering about fit and clearance of a new (to you) set of wheels, wonder no more. YOU MUST have 3 3/4" (3.750) or LESS of back space to clear the control arms / springs. A 13" x 7" wheel with zero offset will fit perfect with a 1/8" (.125) spacer. A 13" to 16" wheel with this back space will clear everything on MY Pinto. On your Pinto? Do your own measurement. NO FWD wheels with 2" (2.000) spacers please. We can not afford to lose members. When using 1" to 2" spacers most do not under stand the extra load being placed on the outer wheel bearing. This post is only shown here to tell members what I (dick1172762) used on MY Pinto. I am NOT telling you to use my measurement to buy wheels. Let the buyer beware.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: Cookieboystoys on January 19, 2017, 06:52:16 PM
If you have de-smoged your Pinto and would like a better looking air cleaner try this mod. Remove all the material on the air cleaner that is outside the diameter of the filter itself. Easy to do with tin snips. On the aluminum air cleaners there is a line marked/stamped in the aluminum to show you where to cut. When your finished you will a much better looking and filtering air cleaner. It'll look like a hot rod and clean up the under hood clutter.

I've done it and looks decent
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 20, 2017, 10:52:59 AM
One picture is worth a thousand words or so I'm told. Thanks cookieboy. Did you gain 50 HP? Hope so.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: Cookieboystoys on January 20, 2017, 01:22:59 PM
Did you gain 50 HP?

50HP! are you kidding? was at least 100HP for that little mod ;)

Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 20, 2017, 04:24:11 PM
A Ronco smoke eater would give you that much back in the 60's. If you do remember Ronco your older than dirt. I know I am.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 22, 2017, 09:59:10 AM
Here's one for all you west coast Pintos. There is a hill climb group in the North West that puts on hill climbs. Our own Pintosopher and EP73 Pinto have raced with them in the past. Looks like a lot of fun with a reasonable cost and car prep.  http://www.nhahillclimb.org  Pintoautocross er! Have you tried this. Its all around you in the great NW. Try it. You'll like it.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: 74 PintoWagon on January 23, 2017, 06:21:27 AM
That looks like it would be a blast.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 23, 2017, 01:06:24 PM
Tired of looking at that old rust covered master cylinder? Well then paint it! I use VHT satin black, but you can use any color VHT has as long as its caliper paint. You must get the master cylinder as clean as NEW. Repeat clean as NEW. Start with a new one if possible or sand blast it. First paint it with several coats per VHT instructions, then let it air dry for 24 hours. REMOVE all rubber parts. Then bake it for 1 hour at 250 deg. That's it and the caliper paint is fluid proof if you don't let it sit on the cylinder for a long time. Remember CLEAN AS NEW FIRST!!!! After you get it as clean as possible, put the cover/lid on it, plug the holes, place in wife's dish washer, and take her out on the town. Remember that this worked for me. Try it on your cylinder at your own risk.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 23, 2017, 02:40:55 PM
Need to rekey your door locks. Here's how with pictures.    http://www.mustangiitech.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=166:rekeying-ford-locks&catid=57:interior&itemid=127   Do this at your own risk. Care full as parts are small and easy to break or loose.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 23, 2017, 03:21:14 PM
Say your going to install a new header on your Pinto. Mfg told you its good for a least 100 more HP. So when you pull off that old rust covered stock manifold you see 3 holes at each exhaust port in the head, but the header will only cover up 2 of them. Easy fix. Just plug the extra holes up. There are several ways. One is to tap the holes, then install set screws. Another is to drive a metal dowel into the hole till it stops. Hole is made with a curve at the end so you can't go too far. Another way is with a small plug like the engine has to seal off the oil and or water from leaking out of the motor. Parts houses have them in all various sizes. Just hammer them in and your set. Which header is best for a 2300 Pinto? All depend's on what you want from your car. Ranger tubing header for cheap and easy to hook up. Ranger/mustang cast iron header for LONG life but heavy. Hooker comp header for a hot rod(hard to find). Which is the best? I think the Ranger/Mustang cast iron is the best if you don't worry about the weight. Sure is pretty too. And it will out live both you and your Pinto.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 25, 2017, 02:45:40 PM
If you have an autocross / road racer / hill climb Pinto with an electric fuel pump and the stock pump too, and worry about too much fuel pressure, you should too. 4 lbs max for a Weber DCOE or a 5200 32/36 Weber-Holley. Only one you need more pressure for is a Holley 2 or 4 barrel carb. Then you need 6 lbs MAX. When you buy an electric pump get the one that's low pressure. 4 psi max for the Webers. If your worried about too much pressure with both pumps on at the same time, just get your self a vacuum switch that turns on the pump at or near zero vacuum. That really the only time you need it. Rest of the time the stock pump is plenty. Get the switch off of E-gay or a large electrical parts house.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 25, 2017, 03:06:55 PM
Any time you use an electric fuel pump you should get a shut off switch in case you are in a fender bender. Get them out of 90's Fords in the trunk. Most of the time their real easy to find as they have to be turned back on if your in one of those benders. Their on the side of the trunk most times. Well worth the few bucks they bring at the Vega yards /"Uh sorry, the junk yards."
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 25, 2017, 04:25:59 PM
Ever had a problem with lite sockets sticking when you tried to remove the bulbs? Easy fix is to use Vasoline (spelling?) on the part of the bulb that plugs into the sockets. The vasoline will be there 10 years from now because it doesn't bleed off like oils or grease. It does conduct electric too. This will work on any kind of plug or twist electric connection from head lights to tail lights. Mopars have this trick done to everything that leaves the factory.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 26, 2017, 08:00:46 AM
Want to be the smartest kid with a Pinto? Well this web site can help.  http://www.yarchive.net/home.html   Here's enough info to last a lifetime. Use it wisely.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 27, 2017, 04:44:11 PM
If your like me, after you stake an electrical connector, you will solder the joint too. Right? Well it will take 3 hands to do the job. One to hold the solder iron. one to hold the solder, and one to hold the connector still so you can solder the joint. Where will you get a third hand? Just get your self a small soldering / wood burning iron at a craft store. There used to burn designed into wood. The tip is about 1/8" (.125) in dia, and tapers up to aprox 1/4" (.250). Simply heat the iron up, then slip the small end into the spade / connector and solder away, as now the iron takes the place of two hands. The craft solder iron gets plenty hot to solder too. I use solder that's made for onboard ships and salt water. Solder leaves the connector looking like a pro did it. Have no idea where I got the solder as the roll is about 20 years old. No acid core solder PLEASE. Use only solid core solder.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 29, 2017, 02:50:46 PM
Want your stock front seats to be a little more comfortable. Easy way is to remove two or all four plastic bumpers that you can get to when you fold the seat forward. This really helps if your tall too. Take all of them out and you'll look cool in your low rider.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 29, 2017, 03:21:48 PM
If you really want to have a 2 1/2" or 3" exhaust system under your Pinto, first look at your new 2 1/2" or 3" muffler. If its a glass pack, look at the core diameter for a shock. The core will only have a 2" diameter regardless of the diameter at the inlet/outlet of the muffler. Hard to tell on a turbo muffler but I have never seen a glass pack with the core bigger than 2". If you know of one please tell me and the club members. This is the reason why all the mini stock racers use a racing muffler instead of a glass pack. A big exhaust on the street will cost you power unless you drive around at max rpm all the time. Reason is the exhaust gas will travel slower than it would with a 2" pipe and the speed of the exhaust is what aids the scavenge of the exhaust and in turn the horse power. Bigger is not always better. On the street go 2" and enjoy your ride.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on January 29, 2017, 03:39:09 PM
When I could not pass a smog check, I used to do the following .Turn the idle mixture screw in till the motor starts to run ruff, then back out 1/4 turn, If its still ruff turn it out one more 1/4 turn. Next get two cans of Heat or Heet and put them in your gas  tank. Next remove the air cleaner element from the air cleaner and go for a smog check. This is what I did and I'm not telling you to do this. What you do with your car is up to you and only you. I'm just saying it worked for me.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 12, 2017, 12:13:58 PM
Are you autocross racers having a hard time keeping yours tires sticky? Well I've tried all kinds of tire treatment's with some success but most are high $$. Try "No Touch Tire Care" at NAPA, Autozone, etc,etc. Just clean up the tread, then scuff up the surface, and spray the tires tread area. Seam's to work as good as the high $$ stuff with much less cost. None of the tire treatment's will make the tires sticky as new, but it will help. With the high $$ stuff, you would coat the tread over and over till it remains shiny. About 3 or 4 coats. If your car is an autocross car only, get the tires off the ground between races.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 12, 2017, 12:43:14 PM
If your autocross Pinto is a racer only, with no street driving, add negative camber to the front tires. About 2 1/2 deg for slicks or R rated street tires. Helps a bunch in the turns. As the tire's ware, reverse  sides with the tires on the rims. Allway's keep the tires rotating in the same direction. If you run Goodyear slicks allway's mount them with the x ray marking to the left in the front and to the right in the rear. This is for rear wheel drive cars only. Get it LOW near the ground. The car is built so you can not go too low without major chassis work. Lower the car till the tie rods are parallel to the ground. A little toe out helps the car turn too.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 13, 2017, 04:36:15 PM
Do you hate pulling your intake or exhaust manifolds off to work on the head or manifolds. First thing that will make the job easyer will be using studs in the head. That'll make align of the manifold and / or gaskets so much easyer and faster. Next is using anti seize on both sides of the exhaust and intake gaskets. You can't get too much on the gaskets as it'll drip / run off when you start up your engine. One thing I've forgot is to try "PAM spray" on the intake gasket. Might even work on both gaskets. Best thing I have used is fiberglass mold release. With it I have used head gaskets over at the race track. Things like this is what all drag racers learn from day one of their racing days. I have seen drag racers rebuild all kinds of problems in the staging lanes at the drags. "The days not over till the rods hit the ground". Just remember that the easyer you make your car to be worked on, the quicker you'll be on your way after you end up on the side of the road in a cloud of smoke.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 13, 2017, 05:47:38 PM
Lots of people tell me they would like to run racing fuel in their wiss bang 1200 but with the cost up to $10 or more per gal, all they do is talk. Do what I do and you will not go broke. I use a 55 gal drum to start, then I pour in 5 gal's of toluene, then I fill up the drum with the best gas I can find. 100 octane lo lead av gas at the airport if you've got a friend with a FAA tail number. 130 or 145 octane if you know the Pope. If that doesn't work, use super duper high test pump gas with out alkie. What other way can you go now days? Just make sure you get it from a hi traffic station so its not years old. Toluene is 125 octane so when mixed with the pump gas you'll end up with APROX 100+ octane. This is what I do. I'm not telling you to do this, just that it works for ME. And please make sure the drum is CLEAN! before you start. Want to know how you find the best pump gas? Get your self a hydrometer for checking specific gravities of liquids. Any gas over 750 specific gravities is really GOOD.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 14, 2017, 09:32:37 AM
Say you've removed your distributor to do what ever people remove a distributor for and you can not get the rotor to align back up. Easy fix is to place the distributor back in the engine but do not use the hold down clamp. Now turn the rotor backwards one gear tooth at a time till you get the rotor align where you want. Go a tooth too far and you'll have to go all the way around again. As your doing this the distributor will rise up a small amount as it passes each tooth on the drive gear which is ok. Told you it was easy. If you've got a Vega, use a hammer.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: turbopinto72 on February 14, 2017, 09:50:56 AM
Beware of the 2" drop spindles for Pintos and Mustang II. While they do lower your car while keeping the ride the same, the lower ball joint will almost touch the ground with 13" (stock dia) wheels. Better way to lower your Pinto is by cutting the coil springs 1/3 to 1/2 coils off the bottom of the spring. Then you can still use 13" wheels and ride ok. Newer springs will require more removed but don't get carried away and cut too much. I've used a cut off wheel and a cutting torch. Both work ok with the torch easyer and faster. How ever you do it make sure you get it re-aligned. Your on your own at the rear as Racer Walsh no longer sells the 1" lowering blocks. Not to hard to make and Speedway sell some too.

I need a little over 2 inch drop in my 72. I was thinking about cutting the front coils 1 full  coil. Do you have any experience with how much drop 1 full coil would be ?
Thanks
Brad
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 14, 2017, 10:02:48 AM
Like to spend money? Who doesn't, so get out the Summit catalog buy, buy, buy, Redline products. Why you ask? It really good stuff for your car. The one I use the most is the tranie lube called MTL. Put this in your 4 speed and it'll shift like it got hot butter for a lube. Don't use it in a T5 as its too thick because a T5's uses atf in place of gear lube. No problem as Redline has a lube just for type of tranies that T5's are. You'll thank me each and ever time you shift gears. Another lube I use is their wheel bearing grease. Good stuff. I put some in a pan on the wife's stove and turned up the heat. The lube stayed the same no matter how hot it got. Didn't even smoke! Didn't I say its good stuff.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 14, 2017, 10:19:30 AM
Ever tow your Pinto behind your 35 ft motor home? If your going from Texas to Washington please remove the Pinto's drive shaft. Why you ask? Because the cluster gear rotation is what slings the gear lube all over the inside of the tranie. Tow it and the cluster gear doesn't rotate, so no lube inside the tranie. Bad thing to say the least. I've seen the tranie's lock up in as little as 30 miles, and I've seen people go cross country with the drive shaft installed with no problem. Are you willing to chance it?
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 14, 2017, 11:06:01 AM
BRAD! One coil is way too much. Car would be on the bump stops. 1/2 coil is the most I'd go at first. 1/4 coil if the springs are real old. You can always cut more, but you can't put it back on. Take it easy please. Just remember that a little goes a LONG ways. BTW Speedway has rear lowering mini stock springs at about $100 each or close. You can de-arch your springs at some spring mfg. Lay the spring on its side and draw a line from the center of one bushing to the center of the other bushing. Then measure from the line down to the spring. That is your free arch. You want 3" of free arch and that what you would tell a shop. In front, lower it till the tie rods are parallel to the ground. Make sure the shocks don't bottom out  when the Pinto is low. This is what I do for Pinto race cars. BTW I was born in Diego and went to Hover Hi  many years ago. Hope this helps~~~Dick
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 14, 2017, 11:35:23 AM
Need some cheap traction bars? How about clamps? On the front half of the springs make clamps that go crossways over and under the springs with a bolt at each end. You'll need two on each spring. Put them where the short leafs of the spring end so that you'll clamp all the leafs together. Then move forward and clamp the next shortest leaf. Do this while the floor jack is under the center section of the rear end. Use some pretty good material and snug it down really good and tight. I use 1/2 x 2 steel with 1/2 bolts. It'll ride a little ruff but not to bad. Make sure they don't rub the tires. Go for it.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 14, 2017, 05:30:52 PM
Want a Rally package air dam for your 79/80 Pinto? Can't find one? Make your own out of 1/8 (.125) ABS plastic. A 4 x 8 x .125 sheet will cost you $100 at Granger. I cut off aprox 18" off the bottom so you end up with aprox 18" x 8ft strip. I then mount this to the bottom back side of the front bumper. You'll end up with about 2"or3" attach to the bumper and the rest hanging down. Use a GOOD heat gun to bend it around the fenders then trim it off and your ready to add holes for brake ducts and oil coolers. I build mine to be about 3" off the ground but use good judgment on yours. ABS is damn near bullet proof and speed bumps will not hurt it. If you want better or more brace's just add some 1/8" x 1" straps to the air dam and bolted at the top to the bumper. If you hit something all you will have to do is straighten the brace out and reinstall it. Finish product will only be as good as your workmanship. The Good heat gun is a MUST HAVE. No hair dryers.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 14, 2017, 05:48:31 PM
Have a 2.000 L pinto race car or autocross car. By now you know you must remove the head to change cams. Right? Wrong! First slide the cam backwards till it touches the firewall. Mark the firewall where the cam touched by making a circle on the firewall. Replace the cam and center punch / drill the center of the circle. Go inside the car and drill a 4" or 5" hole where the center punch was. Make your self a sheet metal plate to cover the hole and your home free without removing the head. Just swing the plate out off the way and change the cam.I don't know if this mod will clear stuff under the dash on a stock Pinto street car.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 17, 2017, 11:56:38 AM
Ever wanted to race your Pinto? Well its much easyer than you would have though. Go autocrossing! Yes, autocrossing! All you need is a helmet no older than 5 years (some clubs have loner helmets). That's it! If your really serious, your allowed to change the shocks and front sway bar. Car will run H-Stock with SCCA. No membership is necessary too. Tires must be real street tires, not R rated street tires (slicks with a couple 1/16" deep groves). Most courses are 2nd gear max and will last 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Much fun and you'll meet lots of real gear heads, plus you'll learn how to drive your Pinto in all kinds of conditions. Rules can be down loaded on the SCCA site for free (that's free). Most city's over 200k have several different clubs putting the race's on, ever week in. Some 100k city's have them too. Find out what your Pinto will really do, for cheap $$. You can race a full year for what one road race would cost. If you really get hooked then you can move up to a modified Pinto all the way up to Indy type cars. And if you have a go for it wife, they have class's for wife's in the same Pinto. H stock for you and HL stock for her. You can ever carry a passenger if they have a helmet and seat belt. What have you got to lose? Take a look at   http://www.na-motorsports.com
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 17, 2017, 12:41:21 PM
If your going to autocross your Pinto there are a couple things you should do if your hooked and are going to race all year long. First your oil needs to be thin because you'll not have time to warm the car up. I use 5W-30 in my Pinto. Second, for the same reason, you'll need a thermostat of at least 180 deg's. 205 would be better, but I'm told there are no 205 thermostats. I use an electric fan and turn it off till the temp comes up to 180 deg's. Autocrossing is a type of racing where every little thing you can do is necessary. Win or lose by a tenth of a second is common at each race. But it is truly one of the most fun things you can do with your Pinto. You'll think your ten foot tall when you beat a BMW with your little ole Pinto. Take a look at http://www.autocross.com to see how big autocross really is.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 22, 2017, 09:59:43 AM
Ever wonder what color's you should use under the hood of a race car Pinto. Well white reflects heat while black absorbs heat. Paint the firewall white while everything else would be black including the under side of the hood. Does it help? Well it should but only on a road race Pinto and then only on an endurance racer where your racing for hour's at a time. Paint it! What do you have to lose?
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: Scott Hamilton on February 22, 2017, 10:10:05 PM
..... If you've got a Vega, use a hammer.

'Priceless!' :)

I love reading these, fantastic!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 24, 2017, 08:39:11 AM
Want a cheap way to keep your header looking new with NO rust? This only works on a new header that has not been placed on a motor. Strip off the paint that came with and spray it with ATF. Inside and outside. Then put the wet header on the motor and start it up. Run it till it doesn't smoke any more. The oil will burn into the header and keep it looking like it did after you striped it. DO NOT do this over your drive way. Remember the header must be new. This is not for show cars and who knows for stainless steel headers.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 24, 2017, 08:59:24 AM
Say you want to rap your header with header-rap. Mfg's say it'll make the under hood lower by 50 deg's. Well who cares? Motor will not care and only the people who made and sold it to you will care. Header rap will rust your header in half the time it would with out the rap!!!! Why? Water collects under the rap because of the cycle of hot and cold temp plus a trip or two to the car wash. Header mfg's love it because they sell more headers. If you live in death valley maybe it would be ok but why would you want to hide your new header in the first place? DO NOT RAP except on a stage! Just what I think.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 24, 2017, 05:28:39 PM
Want a traction loc for your 8" or 9" rear end for cheap? Try  http://www.fastfairlane.com/Tech%20Tips/Rearend/TractionTechTip5.html  Looks easy enough to do.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 25, 2017, 01:30:37 PM
Want more horsepower out of your Pinto? Not as easy as you think! Almost anything you can do will only help your Pinto at 4000 +RPM! What you say!!! The new header I installed last week was to gain me 20 horse power. That what the mfg told me! Wrong! Mfg didn't tell you it would help you at 4000 +RPM did he? Bigger carb? Trick ignition? Three pole spark plugs? Wise bang plug wires? 120 octane gas? All these hop up parts will only help you at higher RPM than you would drive most of the time. Exception would be the race gas. It will not give you any horse power by itself. It only allows you to lean on the motor more without blowing it up. With it you can use more spark advance total. From 32 deg total to 36 deg total will make your Pinto come alive to a point. But none of these mod will do much by themselves. You must do more than one mod to gain real horse power. The kind you can really feel in the seat of your pants. Ever thing you can do is a trade off. Gas mileage / drive ability / engine life / drive train life / etc / etc will suffer as you add more mods to your Pinto. Think it over and never go by what the mfg tell you. They only tell you what you want to hear. If they didn't lie they wouldn't sell their products would they? Biggest help for a Pinto? Get rid of that piece of junk intake manifold along with a slightly bigger carb. 350 CFM MAX! That's all you need. The lower half of the EFI manifold with a little work and a Motorcraft carb is a great bolt on. Just remember that bigger is not always better. Remember you'll never be able to out run the newer cars on the street with a stock Pinto. They have a big horse power that a Pinto could only dream of. My two cents worth.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 26, 2017, 12:41:54 PM
Here's what I would do to wake up a 2300 Pinto. First of all a GOOD header! I would chose a Mustang cast iron header because it will give you the most torque increase of all the headers for sale now days. Its heavy but who cares. Next would be a good carb and a better intake manifold. A 38/38 Weber would be a good start along with an adapter from ACE. Why the adapter? Because the stock adapter from the factory is off set on the stock intake. Another idea would be the lower half of EFI Mustang intake along with an ACE adapter to fit a Motorcraft 120 two barrel carb. This would require a little more work though on the manifold. Another idea would be an Offy four barrel intake with a 390 cfm Holley carb. Any of the three manifold's and carbs will be ok. Next would be an adjustable cam pulley so you can advance the cam 4 to 6 deg's. Next would be advancing your timeing several deg till the motor tells you when to stop. And it will tell you! It'll rattle so much you'll think it's some one shooting at you. At that point retard it a little and drive it again to check it out. These 3 things will wake up your Pinto and make it more fun to drive. I'm not telling you to do this.This is what I would do if I had a new, to me Pinto. What you do is up to you and your pocket book.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 27, 2017, 05:39:45 PM
How do you hop up a 2.0L pinto engine? First move to England or get a real good friend over there. Why? Because the 2.0L was not used over here after 74, but was used in England to a few years ago. The Brits wrote the book on 2.0L Fords and make and sell all the good stuff in the world. Aluminum heads for a start. The stock 2.0L head is a real piece of German junk! Why? Because the intake ports are the worst ever cast that is known by man. They go straight into the head and then make a 90deg turn to the valve seats. Not too bad for a turbo but pure junk for an engine with carbs. It can be fixed but only with VERY high $$$$ to spend. The intake ports need to be moved upward almost 1 inch! That's 1 inch! Racer Walsh had a welder back in the early 70"s that could make the mod if you had the money. $1000+ in 1973 dollars. If you do, some how move the ports then the intake manifold will not fit. The intake manifold will need to be relocated. Everything else for the hop up can be bought over here or in England and maybe Germany. Bryan Walsh has a very fast 2.0L Pinto and may very well have one of those heads. Easy to tell as the intake manifold will be up near the valve cover. I do not know if the English aluminum head has the ports moved but it would be really dumb if they didn't. Now you know how to get that 200 horse power on the street.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on February 28, 2017, 10:01:11 AM
Still on the do's and do not's for a 2.0L Pinto. Never mount the engine and tranie solid. Walsh use to sell the solid mounts. I tried them ONCE and payed for it. In one 25 lap race the header, the bellhousing, and the tranie tail shaft housing all were cracked. The tranie crack was a full 360deg crack. The header and bellhousing were all most as bad. The header was fixable and the rest were replaced. If you've ever raced a 2.0L Ford you know how they will crack a header unless its a two piece Hedman header. Racer Walsh use to tell that in his early catalogs. Where will you find one? Lots of luck as Hedman quit making them way back. You might take a brand X and make the collector removable like the Hedman. I don't think it would be necessary on an autocross Pinto, but I always used one for the full 20 years I raced my 72 Pinto. 2300L don't have this problem thank God. I think the only 2.0L Pintos being road race'ed now are the ones in vintage racing. I don't see any Pintos being raced in regular SCCA road races without a 2300L. The 2300L make nice horse power without to much work. Cam / header / carb will wake one up. BTW if you want to see my 20 year raced Pinto go to the pintosopher photo gallery. Its the red group 2 number 272. Sold it in 95 and its still raced today in vintage road races on the east coast.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: pintosopher on February 28, 2017, 11:26:50 AM
Dick,  Is laying down all the good Stuff, My Hooker Super Comp 4 into 1 cracked #4 at the flange twice, and it was heavily brazed at all the joints, later I went to a creative high temp silicone mount with tubing to the Bell Housing, and made sure the exhaust wasn't in torsion. I also took a VW bug Steering Damper and mounted it to the Bell housing and Cross member horizontally to restrain the engine torsion shock loads during autocross events. All of this with Stock rubber engine and trans mounts, and it may have extended the life of the header. Later, I had a specialist at my Tuner employment cut out the tight #4 welded seam and 3 inches of tubing, then welded (Tig) a new less abrupt bend to the #4 tube to the Collector. Since the Battery was relocated, All was good and Someday, a serious header will replace this.
 He is Correct in saying the English have all the hard work done on making the 2.0 EAO scream with HP. My Drool Factor increased 10 fold when informed about this. I can dehydrate in no time just watching the EAO powered Escort mk 1&2 in hillclimb video. :P
 If you are a video fan, I just uploaded my 72 at the PCCA video gallery and 3 views of my Moderate 2.0 EAO  searching for a redline. That is with a standard Clutch/ flywheel. A year later I went back to the same hill with Half rotating weight and thought I was racing a big bore 4 Motorcycle engine, and was snapping the tires loose on apex to exit :D

 It's all better when the high is on Inertia ,and acceleration :)
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 01, 2017, 10:03:18 AM
How did I learn all of this stuff? Well it started a long time ago in a far off land in El Paso, Texas. I had just joined the USAF and I was stationed with several hot roders from la la land. In 1953 I went to work part time at the only hot rod shop in El Paso. I did the engine balancing and general flunkey work. 53 and 54 I was on the pit crew for the shop's race cars in the Mexican road race. In three years we never finished even one race. In 1958 I was transferred to Charleston, SC. Nascar land! Went to work for a new team racing Oldsmobile 88's. Stayed there building engines till 1962 when I went to work for a team racing year old 61 Fords. Same job building engines and I was the one that put on the decals and lettering on the race cars. I also had to trim the leading edge of the decals to a 45 deg angle. Nascar racers worry about drag very much. 1963 I went to work with Zantop airlines as a mechanic in Salt Lake City. 1964 off to the salt flats with my 427 63 Ford. 20 mph slow at 145 mph. Oh well it was fun though. 1965 moved to Dallas, Tx to work for Texas Instruments. Started drag racing. At that time there were 10 strips with in 100 mile radius of Dallas. Built my first road race car (1969 Boss 302 Mustang).Stayed there for 20 years till I went to work for Rockwell International in Denver. Worked there on the H bomb for 11 years. At the same time I was road racing my 72 Pinto that I had started in 1975. Then a 80 Pinto. Then a 83  RX-7. This went on till 1995 when I sold my 72 Pinto. Moved back to Dallas then and went autocrossing with another RX-7 and another 80 Pinto that I still have. 2001 moved to Arkansas to work for Pratt & Whitney but that went down the tube after 9-11. Went back to Dallas to work at Bell Helicopter when I was 77 years old. I worked in the Metrology Lab. Stayed there till I retired in 2013. So much for the ole story of companys not hiring senior over 50. Now I'm back in Arkansas at 82, retired, and still working on my Pinto. So you see, I had 65 years to gather up those tech tips.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: pintosopher on March 01, 2017, 11:16:34 AM
How did I learn all of this stuff? Well it started a long time ago in a far off land in El Paso, Texas. I had just joined the USAF and I was stationed with several hot roders from la la land. In 1953 I went to work part time at the only hot rod shop in El Paso. I did the engine balancing and general flunkey work. 53 and 54 I was on the pit crew for the shop's race cars in the Mexican road race. In three years we never finished even one race. In 1958 I was transferred to Charleston, SC. Nascar land! Went to work for a new team racing Oldsmobile 88's. Stayed there building engines till 1962 when I went to work for a team racing year old 61 Fords. Same job building engines and I was the one that put on the decals and lettering on the race cars. I also had to trim the leading edge of the decals to a 45 deg angle. Nascar racers worry about drag very much. 1963 I went to work with Zantop airlines as a mechanic in Salt Lake City. 1964 off to the salt flats with my 427 63 Ford. 20 mph slow at 145 mph. Oh well it was fun though. 1965 moved to Dallas, Tx to work for Texas Instruments. Started drag racing. At that time there were 10 strips with in 100 mile radius of Dallas. Built my first road race car (1969 Boss 302 Mustang).Stayed there for 20 years till I went to work for Rockwell International in Denver. Worked there on the H bomb for 11 years. At the same time I was road racing my 72 Pinto that I had started in 1975. Then a 80 Pinto. Then a 83  RX-7. This went on till 1995 when I sold my 72 Pinto. Moved back to Dallas then and went autocrossing with another RX-7 and another 80 Pinto that I still have. 2001 moved to Arkansas to work for Pratt & Whitney but that went down the tube after 9-11. Went back to Dallas to work at Bell Helicopter when I was 77 years old. I worked in the Metrology Lab. Stayed there till I retired in 2013. So much for the ole story of companys not hiring senior over 50. Now I'm back in Arkansas at 82, retired, and still working on my Pinto. So you see, I had 65 years to gather up those tech tips.
I now must bow to the eastern horizon, for that is where all the classic Motorhead knowledge has moved, GRM/Classic Motorsports magazine,and now The story of the sage elder of Pinto master and his many apprenticeship s. For my history pales in comparison, and I feel positively adolescent in my Knowledge. My Automotive complexion has yet to clear up, and the solution is engaging the sport again. :o
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: 1972 Wagon on March 02, 2017, 12:34:27 PM
I enjoyed reading your bio, Dick. What an interesting career and racing experiences you have had. Too bad that many members of the younger generation do not have your work ethic. I now understand the source of your tech tips on how to modify/ improve a Pinto's performance. As pinto_one can attest, I have no mechanical ability as he is always willing to write step-by-step instructions for me on how to do minor repairs on my Pinto. I may never use the tech tips you share, but I do enjoy reading them, even if I don't always understand them!
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 02, 2017, 04:27:07 PM
Ford use to run an ad back in the early 70's that 90% (I think) of the maintenance on a Pinto could be done with a dime. In my 82 years, I must say the Pinto is far and away the easiest car to work on ever made. I think Pinto-one will agree on this statement.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 03, 2017, 10:55:20 AM
Think you need a hotter spark in your Pinto? Maybe yes / maybe no! Factory Ford ignition now days are pretty good but only if in good shape. What goes bad you ask? Plug wires are the most often poor or really bad item bar none. How do you know you ask. One way is to start you engine up outside on a dark night. I've seen plug wires light up like X-mas lights. If your plug wires came on your Pinto, they are JUNK by now. In the good ole days we used solid core plug wires made by Packard 440. But NOT today! Will not work with todays ignition at all. For street or racing you need good wires like MSD sells. As big in diameter as you can find. 8MM or bigger! What else do you need? A really good coil like a Ford E-coil. I get these out of a junk yard and have never seen one go bad. 4 cylinder or 460 V-8 are all the same. Stock car racers use them almost 100% of the time because their cheap and work oh so good. Next on a race car or hoped up street car, you need a MSD module box like the 6AL or 6T. NO 7 box's please as there not made for long running trip on the street. Drag racing only. I have seen the MSD box's run a engine with the ground electrode on the plugs burnt off. Just never grab one that's live. It'll roll your socks down. BTW no 16 volt car battery's as the MSD's go up in smoke with them. With these 3 items you should be set to do any thing that's legal with a Pinto. These mods are what I've done for the past 40 or years that MSD has been mfg them. Good stuff! Good people! BTW what you do with this tech tip is up to you. I'm only telling you what I've done in the past.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: one2.34me on March 03, 2017, 01:55:51 PM
Thanks Dick for all these tech tips and tricks you are taking the time to write down. This thread is "bookmarked" and greatly appreciated! You are passing out 65 years of what we called "tribal knowledge" on the floor. Priceless!
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 03, 2017, 03:45:33 PM
Well Jack, at 82 I need to write it all down before I can't. I have RA and do all of my typing with one finger, so I'm very slow. How's your Pinto doing these days? Our weather is crazy this winter. It's 30 one day and 60 the next all winter. Better than up in the north east with their once a year snow (all winter). Got the door seal's and the window wipes finished. Not too much to go now. I think one good week would finish it. (I hope). Did you change intake manifolds yet? Hope that works out for you. You'll need it out at the springs diceing it out with the Datsun 510's. That and a big bumper to use for a push bar. More later.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: one2.34me on March 03, 2017, 06:27:59 PM
Sorry to hear about your RA Dick. The Pinto's doing good. Looks like an old beater, but runs great. I drive it often. I like driving it as much as my '13 ST. There's been some rain out here, way too much for some areas. It's a brisk 80 today in Southern LaLa Land. I have an Ace 1" spacer for the stock manifold, and a 1" Racer Walsh spacer/adapter for the efi manifold, which doesn't completely cover the efi's plenum and sets the carb more over the aft runners than the fronts. I'm considering the Ace 5001 adapter on ebay. Reading your tips, I realize whatever I do, the stock intake it won't outdo the efi one. Love those 510's, such cool little cars! Hope you your FoPi is on the road real soon! Take care Dick.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 04, 2017, 10:24:44 AM
Want better spark with your Pinto RACE car? Fine tune your distributor's rotor by filing down the electrode on the tip of the rotor. File it down at a 45 deg angle on each side of the tip till its only 1/16" wide. Make sure you file an equal amount off each side of the tip. Make SURE you don't file the 1/16" wide tip. What this does is make it easy'r for the spark to jump over to the cap. Will not give you 100 HP more, but ever little bit helps. This is only good on a race car due to short life of the rotor.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 04, 2017, 04:53:17 PM
Someone told me that they always wanted to time their distributor's rotor in. Well here's how. With an old distributor cap drill a hole as big as you can in the top of the cap between the coil post and the number 1 wire post. You want this hole to be dead center on a line between the two post and again as big as you can make it. Now take  the rotor and paint a white line 1/16" wide between the center of the rotor and the rotor tip. Now install the cap with wires and the rotor on your engine. Now you should be able to look down the hole you drilled on the cap and see the white line on the rotor as it passes by when the engine is rotated. Now start your engine and with a timeing light look down the hole and see where the white line is. In a perfect world it will be dead center in the hole you drilled. If not you will need to work with the slot in the cap to align the cap to the rotor. Be VERY careful when drilling the hole as its very brittle.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 09, 2017, 05:26:44 PM
Want your Pinto autocrosser to be a little quicker next Sunday at the local track? Mount the battery in the trunk. Easy enough with parts off pf E-gay. A battery hold down mount/tray. 15 ft or so of #2 or larger welding cable. Various cable ends. I mounted my sealed battery in the spare tire hole pointing in the same direction as stock, and never crossways please. Then you'll need to run the cable forward inside or under the car. When inside the car I run the cable inside poly hose to insulate the cable a little more. I hook the ground cable to one of the seat belt bolts under the back seat. If you do this right, it will start ever bit as good as stock. I an not telling you to do this! Only that this is the way I would do it if and only if I was doing this mod. Use a sealed battery to get rid of fumes in side the car. Then go kick some Vegas asp.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: robertwwithee on March 09, 2017, 06:50:04 PM
How do you hop up a 2.0L pinto engine? First move to England or get a real good friend over there. Why? Because the 2.0L was not used over here after 74, but was used in England to a few years ago. The Brits wrote the book on 2.0L Fords and make and sell all the good stuff in the world. Aluminum heads for a start. The stock 2.0L head is a real piece of German junk! Why? Because the intake ports are the worst ever cast that is known by man. They go straight into the head and then make a 90deg turn to the valve seats. Not too bad for a turbo but pure junk for an engine with carbs. It can be fixed but only with VERY high $$$$ to spend. The intake ports need to be moved upward almost 1 inch! That's 1 inch! Racer Walsh had a welder back in the early 70"s that could make the mod if you had the money. $1000+ in 1973 dollars. If you do, some how move the ports then the intake manifold will not fit. The intake manifold will need to be relocated. Everything else for the hop up can be bought over here or in England and maybe Germany. Bryan Walsh has a very fast 2.0L Pinto and may very well have one of those heads. Easy to tell as the intake manifold will be up near the valve cover. I do not know if the English aluminum head has the ports moved but it would be really dumb if they didn't. Now you know how to get that 200 horse power on the street.
That's why 72dutchwagon is here.  We trade parts.  Europe to US and vice versa

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 10, 2017, 12:31:30 PM
2300 Ford go fast parts at 4m.net / classified / mini stock. This is the kind of parts required to go really FAST with a Pinto.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 10, 2017, 12:55:28 PM
I've read several articles about being able to run Ranger/Mustang roller cam rocker arms on a stock non roller cam. On paper it looks like this would give you a hotter cam than the Ranger/Mustang roller cam. Has any body tried this mod? Any body willing to try it? If it does work it would be cheaper than changing the cam to. I do know we used to do this all the time with the 2.0L engines. At that time you could get 2.0L roller rocker arms from Racer Walsh. These rocker arms worked very good on both stock and race cams even though the cams were for non roller rocker arms. Only problem on a 2.0L was the roller rocker were heavy and cost you about 500 rpm above 7000 rpm. We ran them anyway in long races that were several hours long. Any takers on this mod??
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 19, 2017, 04:09:19 PM
This is in relation to tip #118. Got this addition to the above tip from a friend at Ford R&D department. "There are cases where you can run a roller follower on a cam not designed for a roller follower. A prime example is the 2.0L Pinto engine. The Pinto isn't really a flat tappet design because the stock followers are curved. So are the 2.3L followers. Loads are about as high on these cams as rollers, which is one reason the 2.3L engines had so much cam problems in the early years. You can put roller followers on the stock 2.3L cam and they will work just fine." This is what Ford says. I have no idea if this mod works on a 2.3L cam, but it sure sounds like it does. Do this mod at your own risk. I know I will try it.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 25, 2017, 03:10:47 PM
ACME company sued! I just post this bit to cheer up the world a little ever couple years. Its always funny, young and old.  Go to http://www.lectlaw.com/files/fun19.htm  I read that Wile E Coyote problems are because he's using a Vega for power, and we all know how much power a Vega has. Get a Pinto Wile E and go kick some Mopar's (roadrunner) asap.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: 74 PintoWagon on March 27, 2017, 07:29:07 AM
That's always a good read, lol..
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 31, 2017, 01:18:40 PM
Go racing down under. Best I've ever seen, but sadly no Pintos.  http://www.community.ratsun.net/topic/71754-2017-adelaide-race-watching-datsuns-on-action   If this doesn't fire you up, you must be driving a Vega. Jack/Art/Joe this looks like it was over here 30 years ago. ENJOY.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: pintosopher on March 31, 2017, 03:04:19 PM
Go racing down under. Best I've ever seen, but sadly no Pintos.  http://www.community.ratsun.net/topic/71754-2017-adelaide-race-watching-datsuns-on-action   If this doesn't fire you up, you must be driving a Vega.
Not to be branded, I have no Vega, But Dollars  would change the dynamic real fast  Check out how King Jerry is stripping the wealth of the middle class with his new infrastructure plan...  ;D

 No man shall be free if he abdicates his responsibility to cast a vote.. ???
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on March 31, 2017, 04:49:27 PM
This is the kind racing that Pintos are best at. Ford didn't have many cars at the time except Pinto's and fox body Mustang's that were capable of this kind of motorsport action here in the states. Both could and would hold their own. The rules changed so much that now days you need a new wiz bang car with all the tricks. Most if not all of the Pintos run vintage now days and do good. Vintage is like what racing was like after WW2. But sadly not cheap.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on April 09, 2017, 12:13:12 PM
Need seat belts for your Pinto? How about over 45 colors. Go to  http://www.sr.seatbeltsplus.com  Looks like the real deal with prices as low as $19.95
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on April 15, 2017, 04:07:18 PM
Is your family / tow car / truck in need of a timing chain? Well I can't help you there but I can help you in the future.  When your stop for any reason, turn the  key off before you put the car in park. This will keep the chain in tension till the engine stops. If you do this the chain will last as long as the engine will. My old Suburban has 215,000 miles on it with the same chain. Sorry but it will not work on a stick shift.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on April 16, 2017, 09:27:26 AM
Biggest swap meet on the left coast at  http://www.pomonaswapmeet.com  have fun.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on April 20, 2017, 11:12:49 AM
Want to build a race car? Just copy this one.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/292087134632?rmvSB=true  I saw this run on tv a while back. Looks great.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on May 04, 2017, 01:22:21 PM
When you hear someone say you can never have too many Pintos, read what happen to this car guy at   http://www.jalopnik.com/the-bmw-addiction-that-complety-destroyed-this-man-s-1794882542    No tech tip in the world would have helped him.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: pintosopher on May 04, 2017, 07:59:11 PM
When you hear someone say you can never have too many Pintos, read what happen to this car guy at   http://www.jalopnik.com/the-bmw-addiction-that-complety-destroyed-this-man-s-1794882542    No tech tip in the world would have helped him.
That is a profound story, but we all have our own levels of Obsession or Just poor timing when it comes to cars and the money issue. It does beg the question, Will we ever allow ourselves to be "balanced" without counseling?
 The fools at CARB would love to see us labeled as Environ "mental" ly  criminal.

 Life is a Padded cell, belief is the key to freedom ;)

 Pintosopher, Bump steer is a tough setting to correct ;D
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: robertwwithee on May 05, 2017, 02:56:02 PM
Good read on this,  my wife has capped me off and I respect that.  It's not worth it.  Terrance ruined his whole family and when he dies, 50 BMW 2002s will not be there to remember him.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on September 15, 2017, 12:36:46 PM
Having trouble with your carburetor? Then take a look at  http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm (http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm)  Much info here.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: Wittsend on September 15, 2017, 02:35:12 PM
Wa - Wai - Wait a minute. Side step the carburetors here for a time.  I just read a half an hour story about a guy so obsessed with BMW's that he went to prison, lost his career and alienated his family.  A good lesson to be learned for sure. BUT..., what the story never said and I kept waiting for (hence, why I kept reading) was what happened to all the BMW's and parts???


Surely their value must have come near the amount he stole. Yet there was never any aspect of them being used for restitution (at least in the story).  Does Terrance still have ownership of all that stuff?  I would think not.  How does that all work out???
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on September 15, 2017, 03:10:30 PM
Very good article on roller cams and rocker arms at   http://www.suicideslabs.com/dw/library/tech/roller.htm   Has some tech on 2000 and 2300 Pinto engines. Entire web site is good reading.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: Wittsend on September 15, 2017, 03:42:58 PM
So, do I stand corrected then? When they talk about roller rockers on a 2.0 (EAO) engine will the 2.3 roller rockers fit?  Or, were they just speaking hypothetically that "if" there was a roller rocker that fits it would work?

Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on September 15, 2017, 04:44:10 PM
No way! He is talking about the 2000 Pinto roller rocker arms that came on German taxi cabs and were sold here by Racer Walsh in the 70's. I bought the last set he had in the mid 80's. They were great in a taxi cab but too heavy in a race car. They would loose you 500 RPM when you tried to use them. Ford never made a special cam for them. They worked just fine on a stock cam or on a race cam. Being too heavy was their only down side. Sold all of mine to an off road buggy that never saw much over 5000 RPM. In my post, Dave said the ranger rollers would work just fine on a stock 2300 cam. Who wants to be the first to try? If it's true, all you would need is the rocker arms and keep your stock cam. Dave Williams is one of the smartest people on earth when it comes to anything automotive. He now has a web site where people pay him a set fee to answers automotive problems. Pay up and for one year he is all yours. One smart guy with a 2L background. Shop is in Little Rock, Arkansas.
Title: Re: TECH TIPS
Post by: dick1172762 on September 15, 2017, 05:13:42 PM
http://www.suicideslabs.com/dw/index.htm (http://www.suicideslabs.com/dw/index.htm) is his old web site with more tech than a person can remember.