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Author Topic: 2.0 timing  (Read 13332 times)

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Offline dave1987

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2.0 timing
« on: December 29, 2009, 01:26:39 AM »
How do I set the timing on a 2.0 without timing marks on the belt cover??
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Offline Srt

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Re: 2.0 timing
« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2009, 03:46:39 AM »
you contact the members on the list and get a new front cover!  there's a lot of help here for the asking.
(sorry, i had a really bad day at work.  don't mean to be so sarcastic)
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Offline oldkayaker

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Re: 2.0 timing
« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2009, 05:16:50 AM »
The 2.0's that I have played with did not have timing marks on the belt cover.  The timing marks are on the front crank pulley circumference and the stationary pointer is part of the front cover (the one that holds the crank and aux shaft seals).

The 2.3's that I have looked at have timing marks on the timing belt cover with a single mark on the crank pulley.  I have seen installations where people cut up the cover and install just lower portion with the timing marks.  There are after mark vendors selling bolt on timing marks.
http://mc-machine.com/mcm_joom/content/view/19/34/
Other companies make degreed front crank pulley's and bolt on fixed pointers similar to the 2.0.
http://www.raceeng.com/c-26-race-engineering.aspx
http://www.esslingeracing.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PUL
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Offline pintosopher

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Re: 2.0 timing
« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2009, 12:12:49 PM »
How do I set the timing on a 2.0 without timing marks on the belt cover??
Dave,
 The easiest, but least accurate method is to find a replacement cover, But if you want to NOT run a Cover on a 2.0L you'll have 2 options.
 
 One is to buy a Degreed crank pulley and fab your own pointer ( this takes some understanding of 4 cycle engine combustion cycles)
 
 The other is to temporarily mount a Aftermarket degree wheel to the front pulley, and using a Piston stop or whistle in the Spark plug hole (#1 cylinder) Find the point where the Piston is at TDC, mark the OEM Pulley, and again make your marks for the static timing (e.g. 6 degrees BTDC) for the timing light later.

 Both of these methods allow you to "correct the Flaws" in OEM timing Marks and will result in more accurate tuneups.

 You'll also have no guesswork on the Timing belt replacement and if you also get a CAM pulley with degree marks , you can compensate for engine rebuilds that would have shaved the head and disturbed the 3 alignment marks (Cam, Dist drive& rotor, and Crank pulley)

 Let us know what you decide..

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Offline dave1987

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Re: 2.0 timing
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2012, 12:43:43 AM »
I just had set timing and got the motor running on Brownie two years ago shortly after starting her as a project, and I already forgot how to do timing....DOH!

Now, using the search function and having to be sure I did it right, I'm second guessing the crank timing I just did after the rebuild.

I think I may have set the crank "TDC" at the 6 degree mark that I use for the timing light, instead of actually setting it to TRUE Top Dead Center, which would explain why the motor sputters and runs like crap now. Hopefully tomorrow or sunday I can pull the timing cover off and see if I did it wrong.
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Offline Srt

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Re: 2.0 timing
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2012, 03:43:53 AM »
The 2.0's that I have played with did not have timing marks on the belt cover.  The timing marks are on the front crank pulley circumference and the stationary pointer is part of the front cover (the one that holds the crank and aux shaft seals).

my thoughts exactly.  i don't remember a reference mark of any kind on the cover
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Offline Starliner

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Re: 2.0 timing
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2012, 10:27:05 AM »
Here is a way to set your timing.
1.  Fill the tank with the gas you intent to use.    The 2.0 can tolerate 87 octane, however I would suggest 89 to get a little more power if you optimize the timing.   
2.  Take your car for a drive until the engine is fully warmed up.
3.  Now drive about 40 mph and put the engine "under load" by pressing down on the gas about 3/4 of the way while in top gear.   
4. If the car spark knocks, move the distributor back a little at a time until it goes away.  If it does not spark knock, keep advancing the timing until you hear a slight spark knock.  Then back it off slightly to eliminate the spark knock.   To understand which way to turn the distributor, if the idle slows when turning the distributor you are retarding the timing.  If the idle speeds up you are advancing the timing.
5. This should be the optimal timing.    I would use this method even if you had the timing marks.           
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