Author Topic: 2300 Turbo Donor Cars (Read 1252 times)

mrskydog · « **on:** September 26, 2012, 12:42:47 PM »

Looking at a Winter Project Motor.This motor would be for my 78 Pinto project car. I have been looking at possible T-Bird, Merkur 2300 Turbo. I have located a Merkur running unit. I would be able to get the motor, harnesses and Processor. I think you need to swap parts off a Merkur motor? intake or something? Anyone used a Merkur on the board here, what needs to be switched....an y tips.....Thank s, Kirk

Bigtimmay · « **Reply #1 on:** September 26, 2012, 01:46:44 PM »

All the engines are the same from 83-89. The Tbirds and SVOs from 85.5-88 used larger injectors 35 lbs hr instead of 30.Also the 87-88 TC and 85.5-86 SVO had a larger VAM.

The 87-88 Tbird used a smaller turbo "IHI". The 85.5 up cars all used the square intake but the only one that used the short square intake was the 87-88 TC and everything from 85.5 and down to 83 used the Inline intake.

And about the only other difference I can think of at the moment would be the earlier cars some used dual fuel pumps and they had 2 different T3 turbos they had a .60/.63 and a .60/.48 .

And if you get an engine with and inline intake you can put a square intake on it but you have to drill and tap one hole in the head for it.

As for stuff needed for swap. As stated you will need harness,ECU,Engine,VAM and high pressure fuel pump.
As for swapping parts off for the swap the only thing I could see maybe being a problem would be the intake height. And then you would need the intake/fuelrail (Depending on what intake your engine started with) off a 87-88 TC as it was the only car with short square intake also you will need the valve cover because it has a dip for the intake to clear and not hit it.An if you find a 87-88 TC in a junkyard and you grab the intake get the ECU, large VAM and Injectors since this car had all the best parts minus the larger turbo.
Oh an you have to put a pinto 2.3 oil pan, pickup and motor mounts on the engine but thats should be a no brainer.

D.R.Ball · « **Reply #2 on:** September 26, 2012, 10:10:14 PM »

What transmission are you going to run ? If its the automatic get the transmission mount as well.The reason that I'm saying get the mount is they are not for sale any where EBay , Rockauto, Autozone etc. You do not need the crossmember just the mount.If you do not get the mount it might be possible to use an Energy Suspension T-5 Transmission mount. More on that later (it's on order).One more thing get a 8" rear end from a Pinto or Mustang II or you can cut down an 8.8 rear end. Or if you can fab your own mounts the IRS from a Cobra.As for an manual transmission you can use either the T-9 5 Speed from the Merkur XR4Ti or a T-5 from a T-Bird etc. Of the two from an easy stand point use the T-9 because you do not have to make any changes to the drive shaft or clutch cable, its the same as the 4 Speed plus the over drive.The T-5 requires a bit more work. It all has to do what you have in hand instead of what you do not have . I've been getting parts for my wagon for the better part of two years and I'm just now able to start putting the parts together.

Mike Modified · « **Reply #3 on:** September 27, 2012, 10:23:46 AM »

You'll need a Pinto oil-pan and pickup.

Mike

racer99 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 27, 2012, 11:21:37 AM »

The XR4Ti has the best wiring harness for the bare neccesities.
Less to weed out than a Tbird or Mustang one.

Wittsend · « **Reply #5 on:** September 27, 2012, 11:51:35 AM »

I did my swap with an '88 T-Bird/5-speed. I had the car before I got my Pinto. The 87-88 harnesses are a REAL PAIN. I spent days dissecting mine and still have about 15 "not sure for what" wires. I still have issues though all the pertinent stuff is hooked up. I elected to use the T-Bird steering column and used its wiring as it related to the Pinto needs, cruise control turn signal, wipers etc. I also retained the T-Bird fuse block thinking it would simplify the installation.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words... Image is the T-Bird harness at the dash.

johnbigman2011 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 27, 2012, 05:12:27 PM »

Wittsend..

I would like to see a picture of the final install if you could.

mrskydog · « **Reply #7 on:** September 27, 2012, 06:55:04 PM »

It looks as if I will be able to get a Merkur Turbo 2300 motor,with wiring and PCM unit. I also have a line on a T-5 Transmission, question is do I need a short or long (input) shaft,transmission? What bell housing do I need with the T-5 set-up? ....Ok I am gathering parts for the winter here.....ahhh ...must gather parts quickly.....Fa ll ya know here in Michigan. Ok, I am alright now. I am getting my parts list up for the Big all Ford Swap meet in Columbus Ohio in Nov.

Thanks again, Kirk

Bigtimmay · « **Reply #8 on:** September 27, 2012, 07:14:40 PM »

Quote from: mrskydog on September 27, 2012, 06:55:04 PM

It looks as if I will be able to get a Merkur Turbo 2300 motor,with wiring and PCM unit. I also have a line on a T-5 Transmission, question is do I need a short or long (input) shaft,transmission? What bell housing do I need with the T-5 set-up? ....Ok I am gathering parts for the winter here.....ahhh ...must gather parts quickly.....Fa ll ya know here in Michigan. Ok, I am alright now. I am getting my parts list up for the Big all Ford Swap meet in Columbus Ohio in Nov.

Thanks again, Kirk

If its a WC t5 and for a 4cylinder itll work as for the bell you can use the bell off a 87-93 mustang that had a 2.3 or if you can find one you can use the D9 bell from 79-81 carbed turbo 2.3 mustang.The 87-93 stangs used a Indirect clutch pull steup and the D9 is a direct pull bell but either one will work.

D.R.Ball · « **Reply #9 on:** September 27, 2012, 09:39:34 PM »

mrskydog use a Mustang drive shaft or use a T-5 or C-4 slip yoke. You need to use a 1310 U-joint or use a 1330/1310 U-joint and use a Ford T-5 slip yoke with the Pinto driveshaft no need for a custom driveshaft.The Ford part numbers for the slip yoke is M-4841-B and the part number for the U-joint is M-4635-A As your local Ford dealer if they can order Ford Motorsports Parts .If you car has a C-4 you do not need these parts.

Wittsend · « **Reply #10 on:** September 27, 2012, 10:32:57 PM »

If you do a search of my posts "wittsend" you will be able to stitch together most of my project. But in a nut shell:

1973 wagon, '88 2.3 Turbo/T-5 ('86 bellcrank bellhousing), 8"/3.00 rear. No driveshaft modifications 2.0/C-4/6.75 to 2.3/T-5/8" shaft fit perfectly. Lots of (not so obvious) modifications to make a relatively clean install.

I replaced the panel where the battery was (rusted out) and added room for the turbo (battery located to drivers front). I widened the radiator cradle to install the 20" radiator.

Lots of stuff so search my posts.

Tom

johnbigman2011 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 27, 2012, 10:52:31 PM »

Very Nice!!! I like the mods to the battery side of the engine compartment for sure.

mrskydog · « **Reply #12 on:** September 28, 2012, 07:56:25 AM »

I agree , very nice clean install. I will research the posts, all great information here, very helpful.

Kirk

johnbigman2011 · « **Reply #13 on:** September 28, 2012, 05:07:39 PM »

Kirk, from watching you work on your Ralley I can only imagine how your turbo project is going to turn out.

Looking forward to watching the build for sure.

John

Wittsend · « **Reply #14 on:** September 28, 2012, 10:58:49 PM »

Here are a few more pics. As I look back there are probably a hundred little things I did. But with a four picture limit... .

The fan motor (and squirrel cage) are from an MG Midget. Slot two holes and it bolts right in but has to be run in reverse. It is necessary to clear the exhaust manifold.

A lot of people have issues with the clutch cable clearing the crossmember. I just made a small bracket bolted to the cable hole with a large bolt to elevate and offset the cable.

The radiator cradle needed to be widened for the later model 20" radiator. The original position was near the square hole at the top of the cradle. I cut and move it about 3"-4." I overlapped the metal to put some strength back for what I took out.

As you can see in previous pictures I used the stock intercooler. I elected to also use the stock air scoop. I'm not sure I like it a whole lot, but the single scoop directly to the IC is probably as efficient as the dual scopes and leaky rubber gasket on the Turbo Coupe. I also have a Nissan 300 turbo scoop. I'm just waiting for a hood - cheap, to install it.

Tom

johnbigman2011 · « **Reply #15 on:** September 28, 2012, 11:08:34 PM »

Wittsend I have a hole similar to the one you have in your hood.

Nice install with everything though!!

Current Classifieds- ALL

Author Topic: 2300 Turbo Donor Cars (Read 1252 times)