Author Topic: Just SHOOT ME!! Starting another Pinto project, a '73 this time :) (Read 12120 times)

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #30 on:** July 15, 2014, 09:11:01 AM »

Quote from: dianne on July 13, 2014, 12:13:10 PM

LOL, I think we all overkill

Looking good though!

I was just planning to toss this together as cheaply as possible. It never fails that hidden stuff turns things into a nightmare. It's turned into a full blown project before my eyes & my OCD forces me to do it right.

I got the 1st coat of POR on it. I think my fingers are gonna be black for a month. This stuff does not come off skin!

I epoxied the new vent in place. I still need to seam seal it after I'm done painting & I still need to weld in metal where the battery rusted the inner fender.

It's definitely looking better than when I started but I need to get this thing on the road.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #31 on:** July 15, 2014, 09:21:40 AM »

Looks real good..

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #32 on:** July 24, 2014, 06:15:38 PM »

I got everything seam sealed. It looks excessive but it's only 2 tubes thinly spread over the seams. The welding & the POR 15 closed up most seams but I want this to last a lifetime.

I covered the cowl vent area because there were a dozen pinholes & some pitted steel that was close to rusting through that the blasting revealed.

I welded new metal to attach the vent & sealed both sides. It's now all covered with POR & looks amazing considering the rot under here.

The new corner is all sealed up & painted too.

The passenger vent looks great & is ready for the heater box. I'm proud of myself on this one. Considering the Swiss cheese I started with that almost doomed this car I managed to save it with some panel bonding adhesive & the rust free vent from the 79 I scrapped.

As for the heater box this car had factory A/C & the box was in bad shape. The non-A/C box from the 79 was perfect & fits perfectly after drilling 2 new holes for 2 of the studs. All other holes line up. I had no idea it was that simple.

I flushed the core & it flows great & doesn't leak. I saved a ton of cash by salvaging the newer heater box.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 25, 2014, 07:51:08 PM »

Your OCD going to let you re-install that heater without taking it apart & Por15ing the metal parts ?

How bout the bare metal parts under the dash ?

Floor pan ?

Just trying to help , ya know ?

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #34 on:** July 25, 2014, 08:10:20 PM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on July 25, 2014, 07:51:08 PM

Your OCD going to let you re-install that heater without taking it apart & Por15ing the metal parts ?
How bout the bare metal parts under the dash ?
Floor pan ?

Just trying to help , ya know ?

LOL. yeah I plan to POR the metal on the heater box. Most of the under dash is going to get sprayed with cheap black in cans since it doesn't see salt or weather. I'm going to POR both sides of the floor pan. If it wasn't $150 a gallon I'd coat the whole car in it. It's good stuff.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #35 on:** July 25, 2014, 10:09:53 PM »

I welded up the battery tray.

I also blasted the insides of the fenders & welded the emblem holes up.

I coated the undersides of the fenders & hood in POR15.

I also covered the undersides of the fenders with undercoating. I sure hope all this will save them from corrosion. If not I sure wasted a lot of time & money on nothing.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #36 on:** July 26, 2014, 05:17:53 AM »

Sand & paint any parts that will be exposed to sunlight.
Seems to me it says that in my instructions.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #37 on:** July 26, 2014, 09:35:48 AM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on July 26, 2014, 05:17:53 AM

Sand & paint any parts that will be exposed to sunlight.
Seems to me it says that in my instructions.

Yeah, I did 2 coats POR on the front clip then a coat of POR Blackcote for UV stability. Under the fenders I just did a single coat of POR15 because I planned to undercoat them heavily for rust & chip resistance. I'm going to Blackcote the underside of the hood over the single coat of POR. I let the POR flow into the drain holes at the front of the hood & along the edges & slowly turned it to get the stuff to coat all the inner areas that salt could potentially hit.

As long as he runs this car through a car wash with underbody spray about twice a month during the winter I think it will stay rust free indefinitely. The whole front clip is essentially dipped in this stuff & it's in every crack & crevice. I was thorough in my prep work & after blasting I used POR cleaner/degreaser then metal prep according to the instructions.

The only thing I would do different on my cars is to sand as much of the freshly blasted areas as I could to give it a better appearance. POR over blasted steel has a rough appearance. I also have the occasional grain of sand under the paint because I rushed things a bit but this is not a show car. On this car it's merely being used as a preservative to keep the car from rotting away during winter use. This car isn't nice enough to restore for summer/show duty but it's not rusted junk that's expendable either. For a 17 year old it should make a perfect all season runner.

The rust in the cowl combined with the gutted interior, factory drum brakes, pinholes in the quarters & hacked up tail light panel where the Cougar lights were would have relegated this to being chopped up for parts. My stepson needing a car & my stockpile of less than mint parts actually saved this car from the scrapyard. I'll still have well over 2K in it when it's done but it will be a nice car for what's in it that won't need a wrench turned for several years at least.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #38 on:** July 26, 2014, 02:57:58 PM »

Knew you would have your Ducks in a row !

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #39 on:** July 26, 2014, 06:32:39 PM »

thinking about using either the line x or lizard skin bed liner on my street/strip car! the floor boards and under the car as under coating plus to try and keep the heat down while driving! a thought for that car for ya!

Scott Hamilton · « **Reply #40 on:** July 26, 2014, 06:41:05 PM »

All I can say is WOW!!

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #41 on:** July 26, 2014, 08:48:27 PM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on July 26, 2014, 02:57:58 PM

Knew you would have your Ducks in a row !

Yeah I wanted to get this right the 1st time. Any mistakes I make here won't be repeated on my 71 or 72.

Quote from: bbobcat75 on July 26, 2014, 06:32:39 PM

thinking about using either the line x or lizard skin bed liner on my street/strip car! the floor boards and under the car as under coating plus to try and keep the heat down while driving! a thought for that car for ya!

I'll splurge on sound deadener in my cars since I'll load them up with audio & subs. This one will get a basic deck with provisions for an iPod & about 180 watts total. If Paul wants to earn some money to upgrade his audio I'll install it later but he just wants a car.

Quote from: Scott Hamilton on July 26, 2014, 06:41:05 PM

All I can say is WOW!!

Yeah, this came a long way already. I'm just glad most of it was solid. I would have cut it up for parts & scrap if I discovered all this rust as I was building it to be a V8 car. Now that I have the mint 72 shell to V8 all those parts I had for this car can go on that one.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #42 on:** July 30, 2014, 07:34:50 AM »

POR 15 brush on or spray ?

If spray, learn any tricks to get it on nice ?
Type of sprayer ?
Air pressure ?

Don't know anything about spraying paint etc.....

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #43 on:** July 30, 2014, 07:47:57 AM »

This works great for patching small areas too..

http://www.por15.com/POWER-MESH-REINFORCING-FABRIC_p_75.html

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #44 on:** July 31, 2014, 06:47:59 AM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on July 30, 2014, 07:34:50 AM

POR 15 brush on or spray ?

If spray, learn any tricks to get it on nice ?
Type of sprayer ?
Air pressure ?

Don't know anything about spraying paint etc.....

I've been brushing it on. I bought the cheapest brushes I can find (3 for $1.00) & I use them once & throw them out. This stuff does not come out of anything once it starts to dry. It took nearly 2 weeks to wear off my hands & I started using disposable latex gloves. I refuse to spray it because I don't want to gum up my expensive guns.

Since this car isn't going to be a show car I have left my mistakes alone. It flows out as it cures & removes brush marks but on vertical surfaces it loves to run & sag & I have dozens of runs all over this car. I don't recommend applying it in the heat of the sun since it starts to cure & gets tacky REALLY quickly. I didn't have a choice but it's a bad idea & inside a garage in temps below 80 degrees would be ideal. Cover your floors with cardboard or plastic & apply it sparingly, thinner is better. I have easily wasted a pint or two due to rushing & less than ideal temps that made it cure too fast & too thick. This stuff is too expensive to waste but since this car will see road salt the excess isn't going to hurt anything.

If you sandblast like I did & want a smooth finish I'd sand everything after blasting then POR it. Anything that will see sunlight needs a topcoat because POR15 isn't UV stable. I topped mine with POR BlackCote. It's not cheap but it's good stuff. Keep the lip of the paint cans free of product. Both of these will glue the lids down but POR15 is like crazy glue. If you use the POR cleaner/degreaser & metal prep like I did wear latex gloves, they're nasty stuff. Any residue left behind (lint, sand, dirt, etc.) will show through the POR like a zit. If you want a smooth finish you must clean it as well as you would to paint the car. The recommended 2 coats POR with a single topcoat is thick. Keep that in mind where clearances are tight.

I did a lot of halfassing on this car & it's gonna show if you look close but it's a 4 season driver so it only matters as a teachable moment to me. I could have prepped better & taken more time to get it perfect & I will apply what I learned to my other cars.

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #45 on:** July 31, 2014, 07:17:01 AM »

to thin out the por15 did you add thinner or reducer to it??

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #46 on:** July 31, 2014, 07:25:31 AM »

Quote from: bbobcat75 on July 31, 2014, 07:17:01 AM

to thin out the por15 did you add thinner or reducer to it??

They have their own solvent to thin it. It's pretty thin already & I think they only recommend 5% reduction with solvent.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POR-15-Solvent-Quart-for-Thinning-POR15-/371112705019?hash=item56680a7bfb&item=371112705019&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #47 on:** August 02, 2014, 08:41:04 PM »

Finally found time to blast the passenger side & tunnel. I would have POR'd it if the storm & floods had held off.

Work is gonna start picking up this month. Finishing this is gonna be a fight to the end.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 03, 2014, 01:55:46 AM »

See the brake line bracket, where the flex hose attaches. Now confirmed for me the long ones are for drum brake front ends. Like my blue parts car.
After I install the Wilwood kit on mine I will see if those longer brackets will work better for holding the flex hose off of the tie rod. Already took them off the blue car , blasted & painted.

Also see the oblong hole in front of that bracket ? Is/was that for some sort of transport tie down ? Ever see one that was made for that ?

dick1172762 · « **Reply #49 on:** August 03, 2014, 11:57:45 AM »

ALL pintos have those oblong holes for tie down. There's two more in the rear by the front spring eye's.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #50 on:** August 03, 2014, 06:04:18 PM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on August 03, 2014, 01:55:46 AM

See the brake line bracket, where the flex hose attaches. Now confirmed for me the long ones are for drum brake front ends.

I think my 72 has long ones & it has discs but I'll have to look closer & make sure

Quote from: dick1172762 on August 03, 2014, 11:57:45 AM

ALL pintos have those oblong holes for tie down. There's two more in the rear by the front spring eye's.

Yeah, they were designed for these T-style hold downs.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #51 on:** August 04, 2014, 07:55:31 AM »

Where would a fellow get them ?
Would only need 2, I think.
I'll look at the back of my car later.....

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #52 on:** August 04, 2014, 08:43:34 AM »

Here's a few styles

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Macs-Custom-Tie-Downs-Cargo-Tie-Down-Anchor-T-Hook-Steel-Zinc-Plated-Ea-340003-/390880097772?hash=item5b0244f5ec&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Frame-Tie-Down-Hook-Grab-T-hook-/351040773511?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51bba91d87

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-HOOK-with-CHAIN-SHACKLE-AUTO-BODY-FRAME-REPAIR-CAR-TRANSPORT-TIE-DOWN-made-USA-/121308355144?hash=item1c3e8a9a48&item=121308355144&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-A-T-Hook-AUTO-BODY-FRAME-REPAIR-CAR-TRANSPORT-TIE-DOWN-Grade-70-Made-in-U-S-A-/121298367997?hash=item1c3df235fd&item=121298367997&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

Reeves1 · « **Reply #53 on:** August 04, 2014, 10:57:46 AM »

Like the first one...but doesn't ship to Canada.....

Just had a look under the back of my car. The original frame rails have been cut out for the tubs.
So I'd need two....providi ng the oval part is the right dimensions to fit.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #54 on:** August 04, 2014, 05:39:00 PM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on August 04, 2014, 10:57:46 AM

Like the first one...but doesn't ship to Canada.....

Just had a look under the back of my car. The original frame rails have been cut out for the tubs.
So I'd need two....providi ng the oval part is the right dimensions to fit.

I think those oval slots were an industry standard for the car carriers.

dick1172762 · « **Reply #55 on:** August 04, 2014, 06:09:13 PM »

Junk yards use to be full of them on old car haulers. Every car spot had 4.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #56 on:** August 05, 2014, 04:29:13 PM »

Here's a couple shots of how they fit.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #57 on:** August 05, 2014, 04:50:02 PM »

Got the passenger side, crossmember & front of the tunnel all painted with 2 coats of POR. I have a few spots to seam seal tomorrow then I'll paint the top coat on & I can finally weld the cowl back on & start putting this car back together.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #58 on:** August 05, 2014, 05:19:29 PM »

Looks good..

dga57 · « **Reply #59 on:** August 05, 2014, 11:39:33 PM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on August 05, 2014, 05:19:29 PM

Looks good..

Indeed it does!

Dwayne

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Author Topic: Just SHOOT ME!! Starting another Pinto project, a '73 this time :) (Read 12120 times)