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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Help!!! Replacing Distributor on 77 2.3

Started by Cookieboy, July 14, 2006, 08:10:50 PM

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Cookieboystoys

Not sure on carb... just went to the local auto parts store and got a rebuild for my 77 wagon w/2.3

I don't know anything about tuning carbs so I'm gonna let the local carb expert handle it for me. Has done me good in the past so I'll leave it in his hands.

I have enough to keep me busy this weekend... front calipers, headlights, find out where the oil is leaking from... ect...

If I have time I might remove the valve cover gasket and timing belt cover and start the strip and paint. getting so shiny under that hood from all the new parts I have to wear shades  ;D
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

Pintony

Hey Cookieboy,
Try some larger main jets.
What carb are you running???
From Pintony

Cookieboystoys

Thanks Pintony and Goodolboysdws,

Patience, glass of milk and couple cookies works for just about anything  ;D After going back outside I realized that getting the hex on the bottom of the distributor to line up w/the hex gear was the real challenge. I used a 1/4 drive extension w/a ?5/16? deep well socket to turn the hex gear slightly so they would line up when I was installing. Kept having to remove the distributor - turn the hex gear slightly - and try again. Even w/the gear leaning as long I got the hex gear lined up it went right in. I think the grease tip that Goodolboysdws would have been a good idea and will remember that for future applications. I didn't want to disturb anything so marked everthing, disconnected the battery and was not willing to tap starter. I didn't want to disturb the timing at all. Seriously...  Patience and getting the hex on the bottom of the distributor to line up w/the hex gear was the key. Once they lined up it went in smooth. The hard part was as the distributor went in it did turn because of the gears and lining it up w/my marks was the hard part. Think it took about 4 attempts and that followed a lot of put it in - pull it out - turn the hex gear - put it in - pull it out - turn the hex gear - etc.. - I think you get the idea  ;D

Some good advice and very detailed info from Goodolboysdws. I have 3 manuals (haynes, chilton and clymer) and none were as detailed as Goodolboysdws.

It does run a little better and I will be timing it today (borrowing a timing light.) Still have issues w/carb. When I give it gas it bogs down bad and then catches up and goes. I know a carb expert here in town and have had him tune 2 of my cars already so he will get a call today. Motor runs great, has good compression, new carb and vacume lines... just needs to be dialed in.
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

goodolboydws

If that same problem (oil pump hex drive shaft not lining up with the hole in the distributor drive shaft) happens to anyone else, here are a couple of things to try:

#1. Rotate the distributor rotor a little backwards from the position that it was pointing when you marked it before pulling the distributor out. The rotor will rotate while you pull the distributor up, (because the distributor gear has angled cut gear teeth, not straight cut ones) so you have to "lead" it to end up in the correct position when you push it back down into place. If you don't start out in this position, the distributor drive shaft will not want to mesh with the oil pump drive shaft. It's sort of like what you do when shooting at a moving target.

#2. If the distributor only seems to go part way into mesh and the body of the distributor is still slightly high (about 3/16" or so max), you are already engaging the oil pump drive shaft, but not completely. If this happens, tap the starter while pressing down on the distributor, it should drop the rest of the way in. This happens sometimes if there is a lot of varnish built up on the distributor gear, or in the hole through which the distributor body has to pass, and you didn't bother to clean well before reinstalling the distributor.

Downside to this method is that if the oil pump drive shaft is NOT already engaged part way when you do this, you will have to restore the proper distributor to cam relationship (timing) before trying again, as that will have changed when you tapped the starter.
Also, if you happen to miss the correct engagement position by one tooth when the distributor drops into position,  (this happens a lot), you will probably also have to pull it and try again, as there is frequently not enough available room to "
swing" the distributor body around far enough to compensate for being off by one or more teeth.

If those don't work, try the following:

#3. If you have a long enough bladed flat blade screwdriver, sometimes you can nudge the top of the hex shaft into a more centered position.
This problem (the shaft not being centered), as well as DROPPING THE HEX SHAFT INTO THE OIL PAN used to happen a lot when pulling distributors from Ford engines - AND STILL DOES if the circular clip that slides over the oil pump drive shaft and which hits the roof of the block from below when the shaft is pulled upwards, to keep this from happening is removed when a new oil pump and/or a new oil pump drive shaft is installed.
(The OEM drive shafts are more likely to have the clip than the aftermarket ones, so if you get a high pressure/ high performance oil pump and a new shaft comes with it, but it doesn't have the clip, try to reuse the old clip if possible.)

#4. If you can get to the end of the shaft, but it won't stay centered, (maybe partly because of what I described in #3 above) take some heavy grease, but use something with a relatively low melting point, not an extreme temp grease, like what used to be called "cup grease" (and don't use anything that has the long stringy fibers embedded in it, like old style wheel bearing grease) and use it to both "glue" the end of the shaft more into a centered position as well as to lubricate it. Engine oil and heat will dilute and remove almost all of the grease fairly soon, and you will probably not see any if you have to remove the distributor later, except maybe inside of the distributor drive shaft hole.




Pintony

Hello Cookieboy,
Yes thos dist.
can be be a bugger sometimes.
Patience is the key.
Glad you have your Pinto running better.
From Pintony

Cookieboystoys

Nevermind... I got it  ;D

came in the house and had a glass of milk and couple cookies (I earned! the nickname cookieboy.)

went back outside and got it to slip in a couple times...

my marks didn't line up so had to keep removing and reinstalling till the marks lined up.

started right up and ran the same as before... slight miss. adjusted the timing by ear and runs much better now.

Tomorrow I'll be using a timing light to get it perfect
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

Cookieboystoys

I'm replacing the distributor on my 77 wagon 2.3

everything is marked.. no problems there

I can't get the new one to go in.....

at the bottom of the distributor is a hex shaft that may or may not come out with the old distributor according to the manual.

on mine it didn't come out... it's loose and wobbles in there... and leans a little to the side...

when I try to put the new distributor in it hangs on the hex shaft due to it leaning to the side and distributor will not go all the way in.

I have tried to remove the hex drive... will not come out. was thinking if I could remove it I could put it in with the distributor.

I'm gonna keep tring to put the distributor in with the hex drive in place but....

is there an easier way? should the hex drive be loose? should I even try to remove it?

Help....
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!