I have a 78 pinto wagon with the 2.3L California emissions compliant engine . Well it used to comply. I now have Georgia tags on it and am no longer concerned about emissions. The original emission control components on the car were in bad shape and though there was screws and glue in vacuum hoses everywhere I still had a bad vacuum leak. I have taken out all the hoses and plugged the suction sources with rubber caps for every thing that wasn't the brake booster, distributor advance, pcv or going to the automatic transmission. I am currently getting 18-20 mpg on a mostly highway drive to work. With the pedal to the floor the car can reach 50 mph from the start of an on ramp in time to merge but only just barely. If given another 30 or so seconds with the pedal down I can hit 80 mph on a level grade, might could go another 10 mph faster if I dared to and had a tail wind.
I'm thinking maybe a combination of a good carb that doesn't have an ECU controlled fuel metering system and a set headers could do the trick. I was wandering if anyone could recommend a good  and simple setup that would get more power and efficiency. I also just like the simple beauty of nothing under the hood but what it takes to run the engine, no emissions controll junk, no coolant heated choke and none of that frivolous junk that my car is allready void of such as power steering, heater core, or air conditioner.

I'm running a Weber 32/36 carb, plugged off the EGR, added a Spal 12" electric fan kit, and run Pertronix ignition. I'm using a Ford Ranger 2.3 Exhaust header which requires modifying the header pipe, but an easier fit than tube headers which always have leaked for me or had clearance problems. Because I'm running a T5, 5 Speed, I was able to get close to 34mpg on the Pinto Stampede cause we were driving so slow the whole way. I'm going to go for the larger, single stage Weber next with a snorkel and new cold air intake. The car is fun to drive and will easily top 100 mph with a basically stock engine. Of course it's lighter than a wagon...


My 2 cents,


Joe

Make sure it isn't the front camshaft seal. Those will leak down the front of the block and drip in the same spot. Not too hard to change in the car.
Joe

Good news the seal conditioner seems to have worked for the oil leak... now the transmission is leaking ten miles to the quart. I haven't figured out the location yet but it seams to be running out on the passenger side of the cross member so I guess its up front on the transmission some where.It leaks only during use not while just sitting. I guess I'll fill it with stop leak and type f until I can get it on a lift. I bought a tow bar and attached it to the bumper shocks for a plan B. I can tow the car up to 30 miles according to the Haynes manual without overheating the transmission. If I need to tow further I will unhook the driveshaft from the axle. Dose anyone know if the bumper mounts will pull out on this car? I gave it a good test yank in the parking lot and they held, but I would like to know for sure. If they can pull out I guess I can weld them in place. Any one ever had a bad transmission leak like this?

  offenhauser makes a four barrel intake for the 2.3, and holley makes a neat little 390cfm four barrel carb. add a good header and efficient exhaust system, and perhaps a cam swap, and you can pick up a fair amount of performance at reasonable prices.

One thing not mentioned is whether or not the cat is still on. If it is, it could be plugged up, since the other equipment has been removed.

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i have a weber carb that is almost brand new. When i replaced my stock carb with it, it was night and day difference and a nice air cleaner assembly that goes on top of it. It makes a nice sucking noise when I gassed it! the setup probably increased my power by 30% over the 30 year old carb that was on there. my wagon is a california car too. I went turbo and have been trying to sell the carburetor. It is boxed up and ready to ship (thought i had it sold) so if you interested message me and ill get you a little more info.