PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Welcome to FordPinto.com, The home of the PCCA => General Help- Ask the Experts... => Topic started by: dave1987 on June 29, 2007, 05:03:19 PM
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I really need some help on this topic. I can't seem to get my Holley 5200 to idle low enough when cold without shaking the entire car, but still not run to rich. Every time I think I've got it, I check my MPG and I'm only getting around 16 MPG, that's even after a carburetor rebuild! I am using a vacuum gauge that my dad has had for awhile. I aim to have the vacuum at about 20, but I can only get it to about 17-18 without it either burning to rich or idling way to high.
Anyone?
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Read up here as it may help you out in your tuning:
http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/5200.html
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Dave1987,
First check that your advance unit flyweights are returning properly. Next check that your accelerator pump linkage is not to tight against the plunger...just the vibration of the engine will drip a little fuel into the carb at idle...not good...a tell tail sign is to peek into the carb and see if the squirt knozzle is dripping...als o a sniff at the tailpipe will smell sour stinky if fuel other then that of the primary circuit is getting into the engine at idle. Make sure there are no airleaks. If you continue to have problems let me know and we can talk on the phone.
High_Horse
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quick question. Does the idle mixture screw go in or out for most lean?
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In for lean out for rich. Reading off of a new or freshly glass beaded spark plug is a good way to get a mixture reading. Starting lean is best, If you are rich and you turn in the screw and the engine wants to stall then turn up the idle a bit.
High_Horse
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Does this mixure screw thing also apply to the 6500?
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I would assume so. I recall reading somewhere that on pretty much all Holley carbs that in is lean, and one some weber carbs that out is lean, not often though. I could be mistaken.
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In or clockwise is lean....out or counterclockwi se is rich. The 6500 is the same as the 5200 except that the 6500 has an internal choke pulldown vacuum passage instead of the external vac. connection.
High_Horse
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Starting with the idle mixture screw in all the way, how many turns outward should I turn it before I start making an adjustment to the idle speed screw on the accelerator plate?
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Dave,
What year & engine do you have??
If it's an early engine I would bet that the "de-acceleration valve" diaphragm is leaking.
You can block it or replace it.
If it's a later car than I would guess the EGR valve needs to be replaced or blocked.
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I've got a 1978 Sedan with a 2.3L in it using the Holley 5200 2V. Where is the decell valve located? I'd check my book, but I left it at my parents a few days
ago.
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Does anybody know about rejetting these, including a place to get the jets?
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Dave,
Your 78 2300 will NOT have a de-acceleration valve.
However, it should have an EGR valve. I would recommend trying to replace it or block it as possible source of your problem.
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I know where the EGR valve is. My older brother replaced it a year before the car died on him. Then it sat for 6-7 years. I can't find anyone in town that carries it besides Schucks, but they are wanting $132 for it. What is the purpose of the EGR valve and how does it effect the performance of the car if I just put a block off plate over it?
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I burns exhaust gasses. But I cuold never see it as much more then a lame attemt to lower emisions at idle. Remove it, cover that port in a reliably functional manner and then chuck that thing Pintostaticall y into the garbage. No alternative tuning will be required with removal but don't forget to block off the vac. port.
High_Horse
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I can get an EGR block off plate from Autozone. I'm doing all my shopping for car parts tomorrow. In the next week I'm on vacation and i"m doing a lot of work on the car including changing the oil and plugs, checking the timing and the distributor flyweights (thanks high_horse!) and adjusting the carb. Perahps this EGR valve thing will help the car out a bit.