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Author Topic: Shaving the 2.3 Head  (Read 2315 times)

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Pintony

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Shaving the 2.3 Head
« on: January 14, 2006, 12:41:41 AM »
Hello Group,
 Being as I mainly deal with the 2.0 and I know what works best for raising the CR compression ratio.
I do not remember reading what most do to raise the CR on a 2.3.
 So what my question is what have most IF ANY members shave from their heads to gain HP from a higher CR????
From Pintony

turbo toy

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Re: Shaving the 2.3 Head
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2006, 08:51:31 AM »
I don't recommend shaving the head more than is necessary just to true it up for a street rebuild.If you cut it enough to raise the compression ratio to a level that will actually make HP that you can realize,you get into another can of worms.The more you shave the head,the more you retard the timing,making it necessary to install some type of cam gear to adjust the cam timing.Then,with the increased compression you need more cam,carb,ignition,gearing,ect.It turns into a viscious cycle.Unless you are planning to turn your 2.3 into a hot rod,I wouldn't shave it more than .020".This is just my two cents worth.

Offline CHEAPRACER

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Re: Shaving the 2.3 Head
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2006, 08:57:15 PM »
You can shave it down till you just about hit intake bolt threads and that will get you about 10-10.5:1 or so if that's what your're looking for. My last N/A was milled .120.
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Offline fast34

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Re: Shaving the 2.3 Head
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2006, 09:06:26 PM »
I have my mini stock race motor shaved .150.  I also have had the block decked to get near zero piston height.  If you are going to go this far, then I STRONGLY recommend putting studs in the intake bolt holes BEFORE having it shaved.  It helps eliminate them breaking out when torquing the intake during assembly.  As stated above, you will need a adjustable cam gear, since mine was 7 degrees off afterwards.  What a hell of a difference though.  Do this, with around (I reccommend) Comp. Cams .460 lift and .280 duration, and you'll have a awesome running street beast.  Just remember, that most Comp cams are ground  with 4 degrees advance already in them.

Pintony

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Re: Shaving the 2.3 Head
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2006, 11:44:58 PM »
WOW!!!
-.150 That is a bunch!!!
This was just kinda a qustion I never had read on this group so it's just curiosity.
But it may help other 2.3 fans on a performance upgrade.
From Pintony

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Re: Shaving the 2.3 Head
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2006, 09:53:19 PM »
I have my mini stock race motor shaved .150.¬  I also have had the block decked to get near zero piston height.¬  If you are going to go this far, then I STRONGLY recommend putting studs in the intake bolt holes BEFORE having it shaved.¬  It helps eliminate them breaking out when torquing the intake during assembly.¬  As stated above, you will need a adjustable cam gear, since mine was 7 degrees off afterwards.¬  What a hell of a difference though.¬  Do this, with around (I reccommend) Comp. Cams .460 lift and .280 duration, and you'll have a awesome running street beast.¬  Just remember, that most Comp cams are ground¬  with 4 degrees advance already in them.

So, what do you do about keeping the valves off the pistons? Just a thought cuz with .150 off the head and a decked block I assume you would need pistons with valve reliefs in them?
Brad F
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Offline fast34

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Re: Shaving the 2.3 Head
« Reply #6 on: January 23, 2006, 11:46:02 PM »
I use stock hyperutectic pistons for a later madel Ranger.  Just make DAMN sure that the cam timing is dead on balls right!!  I also check timing belt tension CONSTANTLY!!! I have never had a problem with it to this point.  It just finished it's first full season with no pitfalls.  This particular motor had a Crower cam with .475/.491 lift and I would have to check cam card to get duration.  Motor needed a little more cam but ran very well.  Head and stock pinto intake, oval port, both ported, with a Holley 350 that has been reweorked to I do not know what cfm, but is much larger than the 500 is, visually.  Very good combo overall though.  Jim