Push or pull means the way the clutch fork is actuated. A pull type uses a cable and the push type is pushed to engauge/disengauge the clutch. For the pull (cable) type the pivot ball (inside the bell)is on the passenger side and push type has the pivot ball on the drivers side of the bell. If your looking at a bell housing and it has no clutch fork in it...that is how you tell which one it is. I hope that wasn't confusing lol

In order to use a push type clutch you would have to have either mechanical linkage or a hydraulic clutch setup...cable is the easiest since it's already setup. Even easier is an automatic 

RSM, you went from manual to automatic, do you still have the clutch pedal assembly? i am going from auto the manual.

about the bellhousing, i should be looking for a t-5 with a cable operated clutch, hopefully i can buy it all as one, they should all bolt to the 289 because it is the same block as a 302.

correct?

Sorry Fehrion, I sold the pedal assembly about 3 months ago. An automatic is the way to go when your drag racing...keeps your times consistent. The problem with manual transmissions is that if you miss a gear or have a hard time shifting then your done. Also for street driving just stick in gear and go. Manual transmissions are kool to have and all and a T5 has a nice od 5th gear but I'm all about the 1/4 mile and car shows. I'll keep an eye out for a bell housing for ya...I hope you an find a complete setup, makes it nice to get everything at once.

that sounds like one mean drivetrain reeves, but ive already got a built 289 thats almost done!! im building it myself in my engine machining class at school.

RSM, your right, automatics are easier and more consistent, but i love driving stick, there is nothing else like it, okay maybe winning too, but this is a street car for my dad and i to take out on the weekends and to local shows.

any thoughts on those mustang mounts i posted a picture of? im supposed to go pick them up tomorrow, i just dont want to buy the wrong thing again. http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/2679652559.html
there is the link of stuff the guy has.

New Hooker Super Comp Headers 1 5/8" x 31"x 3" Part # 6102
^^^ those arent the super comps that work with pinto swap is it?

ive been talking to Norm and he said those look alot like his, and i cant seem to find a picture of those mounts in there original condition. ive been reading alot and it seems like everyone has something different.   

 Not all 289 blocks are the same as a 302. The early blocks used a smaller bell housing and only a 5 bolt mounting ( like a 260) the later ones used the same 6 bolt pattern as the 302.
 You may want to count the threaded holes on the rear of your block. Two holes are for the dowel pins, so it should be either 7 or 8 holes total.

I didn't re-read the topic, but have you decided on what headers you will be going with ? May make a difference on which way you mount the engine....
I do have frame mounts, but I'm holding them till I know what will happen to the 302w & T-5, as I would like to sell as a complete unit/swap .

Look in the parts for sale section. Guy has a brand new set of headers you are looking for & the price is good as well.
Seems to me, he may have mounts as well ?

Edit: his listing has expired.
shoot a PM to 79prostreet: http://www.fordpinto.com/profile/?u=8303

In case you have not seen the great thread below, it shows what is involved in adapting the Granada disc to the early Pinto.  I am not aware of anybody making after market brakes for the early spindles anymore.  Would like to hear if someone is.
http://www.fordpinto.com/pinto-faq/front-disc-brakes-(4-5-lug)/msg6498/#msg6498

The late spindle is about 7/8" taller (between the ball joints) than the early spindle.  I suspect this would affect the geometry but I do not understand such topics.  However I seem to remember somebody here installing the late spindle in a 73.  Another problem is that the hole for the tie rod end is larger in the late spindle than the 71-72 spindle.  The 73 has a unique rack which uses the larger tie rod end.

looks like an 8 inch rear to me

yahoo! and because its coming out of a pinto , it will be the right length to fit under our rear end! ... should i take the driveshaft too? the car is a wagon.

My understanding is that all Pinto's have the same wheel base.  Therefore the difference maker becomes the transmission and rearend. Also, in your case the location of the transmission might be different (meaning moved) for the V-8 installation.

But as a reference point I went from a:

 2.0 / C-4 / 6.75 rearend

 to a

 2.3 / T-5 / 8" rearend

And the original '73 wagon driveshaft fit perfectly.  :-)

Tom

it was a LONG time ago, but when i put the 289, 4speed (top loader) in the Gold Bee Pangra Race car i used a Herbert and Meek kit, it came with all the mounts including the trans mount and was a total bolt in, the headers were weird but fit. I did have to use a sledge to dimple the firewall at the bellhousing but nothing else. I used a clutch cable but forgot where i got it from and it was reverse mounted and never worked correctly as the fulcrum and ratio made the pedal so stiff a bodybuilder whould have trouble with it. the bellhousing was from a '65 Mustang and Shelby flywheel and clutch. the floor was notched to fit the hurst vertigal gate shifter. I finally ended up putting a built C-4 with 2800 stall converter in it and had lots of fun. Pic's of the car is in my galley pictures. I also had to notch the front radiator support to get a Mustang II V-8 Radiator in it, also switched to electric fans due to clearance problems. That's as about as much as i remember on it now, this was in 74 so the memory fades, i'm sure others on here have more recent experience than I do. Good luck. Oh, sub frame connectors, slapper bars and a 6 point cage helped stiffen my Pangra.